ils menswear and men's clothing part 2: 2023 until we all need stillsuits

i used to sling secondhand & vintage clothing as a side hustle and have the kind of eclectic wardrobe that goes with the territory.

my favorite stuff has tended to be postwar era- not too military, not too rockabilly, more outdoor and phys ed apparel. it's blockish and severe and looks good with my buzz cut.

i've gained a lot of weight in the last few years, though. i resisted buying any new clothes, instead i've tried to squeeze into anything i had that was oversized or less fitted. but it's got to the point where that's no longer an option.

so the first thing i noticed is that used clothes cost as much as new clothes now. not just coveted vintage pieces, i mean absolutely everything. wtf?? i guess i'm glad more people are buying secondhand shit but this is crazy.

i'm not going to buy fast fashion bullshit that falls apart in 3 months and ends up in a landfill. i'm not going invest in heirloom pieces because of my fluctuating weight (i was S/P and could fit into youth sizes, now i'm a true M/L) and also i'm living with uncertainties about my health. and i'm def not paying what ridiculous vintage repro brands charge for basics, holy shit.

digging around the online secondhand market a bit, it's really hard to find anything that justifies the price. Billy Reid stuff is about the best value, with a lot of pieces made in Italy under $30. i'm also seeing some deals for Steven Alan, though the quality and price point is much more variable there. this kind of stuff is a little more "normal guy" than what i usually go for, but i like it well enough i guess. the guys i see on the subway who dress like that always look like they have their ducks in a row. the problem is that as it's sort of blandish no individual piece inspires me to pull the trigger.

i'm through with buying clothes, forever. fashion is the biggest racket going, better drop those pounds fast i guess.

Not my personal thing, but if that is something you wish to wear, go ahead; rock on with your bad selves.

fixed

gah

Not my personal thing, but if that is something you wish to wear, go ahead; rock on with your bad selves.

:D

i doubt this is up your alley because it's very military but i need to evangelize about soffe silkies (or "ranger panties") for a second. if there was a god in heaven more men with nice legs would wear them. they're incredibly short. they're also incredibly comfortable. i wear them to the gym every day, whaddup.

https://cdn10.bigcommerce.com/s-19fkae7/products/361/images/1548/M020_ranger-olive__50494.1563829773.1280.1280.jpg?c=2

i once sold a pair of champion running man herringbone gym shorts in military olive color with a < 3" inseam for like $150.

i have 1940s basketball shorts somewhere that are shorter. alas, my legs have seen better days.

ftr i am pro gym shorts. on guys with nice legs it's not even a question.

YMP, “crust punk” is wearing cut-off tees with hardcore bands or cop-fighting anime characters or trains on them with booty shorts . it gets hot in Philly.

“hippie preppy” is wearing nicer clothes but they’re a little too bright and strange and it might seem like i’m on drugs. LL Bean but make it drug-running

preppie gone druggy is classic story

i like ll bean too, but it's a good example of the secondhand market insanity with items that used to reliably fetch $10-15 starting around $50. guess i'm done with ll bean.

Seth from Dufus is the ultimate crust punk. he doesn't wear a ton of black but i saw him on the G train c. 2001 with huge mounds of actual garbage glued to his shoes.

whats a good bargain on the second hand market these days

Wow I literally have no idea what you folks are talking about but okay

I only shop LL Bean at discount shops or at the outlets in Maine— I save a couple hundred just for clothes on my annual Maine trip.

(or at least I try)

i find ll bean made in usa pieces on ebay for $10-15 regularly. usually when sellers don't put it in the title and you gotta scroll the pics to see the tags. 90s era denim/chambray shirts in partic.

not usa but ll bean camp collar shirts are plentiful, affordable, and good for summer. i have two in a pleasingly colonialist batik print that look great with the sleeves rolled way way up for flexing purposes (the default unrolled silhouette is very tommy bahama).

levis 550s (the relaxed fit) are very cheap on ebay and comfortable year round in nyc imo.

my man!

am i not as patient and resourceful as i used to be or are we looking at different pieces?

not seeing a big price difference between made in usa and imported tbh. i have seen the camp shirts real cheap! i don't want em because tommy bahama silhouette is otm

also i like camp shirts a lot but why does every fucking short sleeve shirt have a camp collar now?

annual Maine trip.

ppl who have figured out how to live

As much as I like the patterns on a lot of camp collar shirts, I am very much sticking with butch collars; they just sit better on me. I’m currently scouting around for colourful print shirts, but with long sleeves. I never actually wear them long; instead I roll them up high above the elbow, as the shape nicely masks my skinny upper arms.

camp collar is code for “i’m available”, can’t believe you guys didn’t know this

deflatormouse, one of my oldest friends comes from some money, her family has a spot on an island off of Maine— dreamy place, but i certainly couldn’t afford such a trip if i were paying for anything besides gas, tolls, and gifts

I'm happy that this forest-green Land's End barn jacket, with a corduroy collar -- it was my late dads, from the 80s/90s -- is now suddenly in style.

like a Barbour jacket?

A lot like this one (I guess Lands' End is still making them!).

Oh, and here's the jacket itself on Ebay, though mine is less faded.

that sounds amazing table, my last comment was without irony or judgement, i'm glad you get to experience that place! i've only been to maine once, with a guy i was dating who grew up in the portland area. we went for a visit and hit boothbay, it was insanely beautiful.

as midcentury leisure shirts go i'm into the early 60's italian collar and have one in my rotation currently
https://www.themoviescene.co.uk/reviews/_img/8384-3.jpg

those barn jackets never went out of style.

i have one, it makes me look hopelessly awful

my enormous 80s bean barn jacket--with a waxed poacher's pocket and webbing for shotgun shells--is one of my prize ebay scores. it is best with the collar flipped up

I've been thinking about what I could contribute to this thread. I bought this pair of shoes a couple of months ago, they're the most comfortable shoes I've ever worn:

Allbirds Men's Tree Dasher Relay

How often do you carry shotgun shells adam

better to have extra pocket features today than to be the guy with loose shells rattling around like a fucking dork tomorrow

I might be tempted to use those shotgun-shell loops for those mini airplane liquor bottles

Or harmonicas in a bunch different keys, like the dude from Blues Traveler

Maybe just go straight-up absurdist and carry like five different kinds of toothpaste or skin moisturizer

i inherited a waxed canvas Barbour-type jacket from my uncle which i absolutely love but am wary about wearing here in the UK because of pretty vivid associations with rich land-owning Tories

something his brother told me that i never knew before is that they were originally invented as motorcycle jackets!

wear mine a fair bit in spring and autumn. walk around brockwell park with a shotgun under my arm. bray loudly at the ducks etc.

a bit of brexit for lunch

xp don’t forget your red cords

correct xp

i haven’t got any red cords. i have got a splendid brick-coloured… well what colour are we calling this?

https://i.imgur.com/UPlDBuA.jpg

Rusty, which is just brown-red

brown, yes.

men should all be required to wear trousers that match the colour of their dog

barbour jacket required to do this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GRSbr0EYYU

l m a o

update: i'm super pleased with my football-game-watching dad oakleys

sorry for thirsty gay selfie vibes but here's the ensemble

https://scontent.fslc3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/347625421_618616300224043_2288187012472386737_n.jpg?_nc_cat=103&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=m81i8f_RjowAX_vg1Ix&_nc_oc=AQnnmf-rqpc-x76yL4-MLkg4VO6OiUMg6dMU55rUFVoUQGU60uRVZJQKUHxD0RhNX_tjiRt4JU6aQLVyxajoRtW_&_nc_ht=scontent.fslc3-1.fna&oh=00_AfDfROhzEMM1w7pYztvhLjgJMM_tFK6vaG8kLezCml-hYw&oe=646CE2C1

"meet the best selling whiting overshirt in marine beatnik"

I'm sorry? I understand nearly all the words individually...

just changed trains at Jamaica, guy on the platform was wearing these. "where to buy weed?" answered.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0232/3955/7200/products/IMG_3735_940x.jpg

Searched around and found Matsson's cardigan from the Succession finale.

nice!

the successionfashion IG account was a good follow.

for just $350 you too could own a mohair cowhican bathrobe

xxxp damn engineered garments really jumped the shark huh

i just bought a washed denim six panel ballcap (not stonewashed, sort of medium dark)

might be too bold of a move, idk. the only dark blue caps i have rn though are us navy caps for ships that are still on active duty here and a a fake padres "LSD" hat. both are ... not versatile enough for my needs

https://www.grailed.com/listings/24490992-handmade-san-diego-padres-lsd-festival-meme-trucker-hat

https://image.shutterstock.com/image-vector/patch-pocket-flat-sketch-vector-260nw-1970807894.jpg

daiki: put this pockets on the front of the jacket
seamstress: which pockets?
daiki: yes

don't forget the king of edible pockets, the hot pocket

all my pockets are hot

i can’t stand all that costume store hippie crap tbrr

i like your idea man alive

if you can’t find tinted glasses you could keep the turtleneck and go for more of a campus look and find some corduroy. i’m thinking elbow patches on a corduroy jacket

^ wtf this is how i dress

maybe fizzles can attend and you won’t have to go man alive

if i ever get invited to a 70s party i'd like to go with "joe don baker in a trucker movie"

xp Mr Kotter was another idea I had. I have the hair for it, would just need to shave the facial hair other than moustache/sideburns. Corduroy Jacket, brown pants, wide tie, wide collar shirt, IDK what kind of shoes but probably doesn't matter.

maybe fizzles can attend and you won’t have to go man alive

All these ideas are really lame
You should go as Gene Simmons in full makeup, with the fake blood pouring out of your mouth and most importantly, the pyrotechnics
You could walk around staining the carpet with the false blood and “inadvertently” starting house fires all evening.
If you don’t overdo it you are really missing an opportunity. You can dress up like a dorky fucking professor whenever you want.

sorry but my joe don baker in a trucker movie idea is objectively hot

oh shit sorry i missed that 1

to be read in the voice of a gay german videographer:

70s professor, okay yeah, sell the ice storm to me, corduroy jacket and round glasses is basic level, you're fucking the other professor's wife like john updike, i need to feel the arrogance and the absent-mindedness, i'm thinking you need a pipe and a pair of basketball shoes otherwise no one cares.

had to google. that's a timeless look
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/M/MV5BMDIzMDdmNTYtMDY2Mi00NGIwLTlmMzQtODljOWFmZWEyZmE5XkEyXkFqcGdeQXVyMzI5NDcxNzI@._V1_.jpg

i think you can dress like that whenever you want, too.

Powers Boothe as Jim Jones

https://c8.alamy.com/comp/HD4XX4/guyana-tragedy-the-story-of-jim-jones-diane-ladd-powers-boothe-1980-HD4XX4.jpg

i think you can dress like that whenever you want, too.

― Deflatormouse, Monday, January 22, 2024 8:52 PM (fifteen minutes ago) bookmarkflaglink

yeah this is basically my look tbh

hey @zach_tbd, do you think you could photoshop map's Oakleys (pictured upthread) onto Joe Don Baker's face TYVM

OK map is totally bringing it with the Updikean academia adultery theme. I bow to map's vision.

Fwiw I already have all those jackets (tweed and corduroy, with and without leather elbow patches). A former girlfriend once described my aesthetic as "drunk English professor" and I didn't disagree.

fall and winter = hippie mainer

spring and summer = crusty faggot

good looks

i'm feeling metal band tees this year

keep trying to find an outfit for my oxbow tee. keep failing. it’s not really a v good tee but i do like the album title “Love’s Holiday”.

jealous, i wish i had an oxbow shirt

finding new favorite bands from the style thread: classic

this vitriol tee is on its way

https://vitriolwarfare.bigcartel.com/product/servants-of-the-secret-fire-pre-order

this richard dawson tee i picked up last year gets a lot of wear

https://i.imgur.com/pcblyDh.jpg

Had the trousers and just ordered the jacket for the full look.

https://i.postimg.cc/qvxzx5Gx/IMG-0255.jpg

I am not sure Erdem will do another men’s collection for a while, which is a shame.

what are some of your favorite men’s fashion blogs? moreso interested in casual/street wear but anything will do