ils menswear and men's clothing part 2: 2023 until we all need stillsuits

i respect that he sought out an expensive japanese mock turt and wore one every day, true lunatic behavior

sleeveless mock turts in a jeep or gtfo

amen brother, & the mock turt maker better send me an email saying "happy trails" after it's delivered to me.

It's the only type of shirt that is also a type of soup

As far as I know

Red wing and Nintendo have teamed up to bring Super Mario’s Shoes To Life (2023) pic.twitter.com/0yqFdXnpqf

— Outlander Magazine (@StreetFashion01) March 10, 2023

lmao

cant wait to stomp on all my enemies

https://www.cnn.com/2023/05/09/australia/australia-william-leslie-arnold-cold-case-intl-hnk-dst/index.html

wow chambray double needle workshirt, such authentic, is it selvedge, where can i cop?

‘Well, he was an orphan. He didn’t lie about that, but he killed his parents, that’s why he was an orphan.’

👌

who's looking snazzy for summer

https://img.staticdj.com/0db3f52ccc134a79e32104a267bc5f39_1080x.jpeg

for real though i got this filson mechanic shirt and i can't wait to cosplay rough trade at the club

https://filson-canto.imgix.net/3qrso6g9vh57785bqmdpdcil37/gs6KD7w7k41qERPg97FERgdWi3Y/original?h=2000&w=2000&bg=ffffff&q=80&auto=format,compress&fit=fillmax

stussy has done many iterations on this workwear classic

besides the fact that i've never quite been able to pull off hickory stripe, i also have a morbid fear of catching my chest hair when adjusting the zip

i could not make it work personally but it's a cool style of shirt

my summer look is “aging crustpunk” or “hippie preppy”

The one with the half zip is odd but it is at least comprehensible as clothing for a male adult human in the western hemisphere.

I don't really understand the blue shirt above it with what I guess is a keyhole neckline?

Not my personal thing, but if that is something you wish to wear, go ahead; rock on with your bad selves.

I do not know what crust is so I'm prolly gonna keep dressing like my father, my stepfather, and almost every male person I ever knew who has a PhD in the humanities and a drinking problem. Our collective aesthetic is "louche English professor" and mostly it is working out for us.

We wear tweed nine months out of the year and linen for three months, and we do okay.

god bless

i'm also on the lookout for the douchiest sport sunglasses imaginable, i think it might have to be these oakleys

https://assets2.oakley.com/cdn-record-files-pi/c6ca0fe9-4ff1-43c5-8fa3-aefd00ef8cc0/77a5f4ac-6e0d-4929-bd9d-aefd00f83d56/0OO9271__927153__P21__shad__qt.png?impolicy=OO_ratio&width=2000

for the record, the blue shirt was a joke

i used to sling secondhand & vintage clothing as a side hustle and have the kind of eclectic wardrobe that goes with the territory.

my favorite stuff has tended to be postwar era- not too military, not too rockabilly, more outdoor and phys ed apparel. it's blockish and severe and looks good with my buzz cut.

i've gained a lot of weight in the last few years, though. i resisted buying any new clothes, instead i've tried to squeeze into anything i had that was oversized or less fitted. but it's got to the point where that's no longer an option.

so the first thing i noticed is that used clothes cost as much as new clothes now. not just coveted vintage pieces, i mean absolutely everything. wtf?? i guess i'm glad more people are buying secondhand shit but this is crazy.

i'm not going to buy fast fashion bullshit that falls apart in 3 months and ends up in a landfill. i'm not going invest in heirloom pieces because of my fluctuating weight (i was S/P and could fit into youth sizes, now i'm a true M/L) and also i'm living with uncertainties about my health. and i'm def not paying what ridiculous vintage repro brands charge for basics, holy shit.

digging around the online secondhand market a bit, it's really hard to find anything that justifies the price. Billy Reid stuff is about the best value, with a lot of pieces made in Italy under $30. i'm also seeing some deals for Steven Alan, though the quality and price point is much more variable there. this kind of stuff is a little more "normal guy" than what i usually go for, but i like it well enough i guess. the guys i see on the subway who dress like that always look like they have their ducks in a row. the problem is that as it's sort of blandish no individual piece inspires me to pull the trigger.

i'm through with buying clothes, forever. fashion is the biggest racket going, better drop those pounds fast i guess.

Not my personal thing, but if that is something you wish to wear, go ahead; rock on with your bad selves.

fixed

gah

Not my personal thing, but if that is something you wish to wear, go ahead; rock on with your bad selves.

:D

i doubt this is up your alley because it's very military but i need to evangelize about soffe silkies (or "ranger panties") for a second. if there was a god in heaven more men with nice legs would wear them. they're incredibly short. they're also incredibly comfortable. i wear them to the gym every day, whaddup.

https://cdn10.bigcommerce.com/s-19fkae7/products/361/images/1548/M020_ranger-olive__50494.1563829773.1280.1280.jpg?c=2

i once sold a pair of champion running man herringbone gym shorts in military olive color with a < 3" inseam for like $150.

i have 1940s basketball shorts somewhere that are shorter. alas, my legs have seen better days.

ftr i am pro gym shorts. on guys with nice legs it's not even a question.

YMP, “crust punk” is wearing cut-off tees with hardcore bands or cop-fighting anime characters or trains on them with booty shorts . it gets hot in Philly.

“hippie preppy” is wearing nicer clothes but they’re a little too bright and strange and it might seem like i’m on drugs. LL Bean but make it drug-running

preppie gone druggy is classic story

i like ll bean too, but it's a good example of the secondhand market insanity with items that used to reliably fetch $10-15 starting around $50. guess i'm done with ll bean.

Seth from Dufus is the ultimate crust punk. he doesn't wear a ton of black but i saw him on the G train c. 2001 with huge mounds of actual garbage glued to his shoes.

whats a good bargain on the second hand market these days

Wow I literally have no idea what you folks are talking about but okay

I only shop LL Bean at discount shops or at the outlets in Maine— I save a couple hundred just for clothes on my annual Maine trip.

(or at least I try)

i find ll bean made in usa pieces on ebay for $10-15 regularly. usually when sellers don't put it in the title and you gotta scroll the pics to see the tags. 90s era denim/chambray shirts in partic.

not usa but ll bean camp collar shirts are plentiful, affordable, and good for summer. i have two in a pleasingly colonialist batik print that look great with the sleeves rolled way way up for flexing purposes (the default unrolled silhouette is very tommy bahama).

levis 550s (the relaxed fit) are very cheap on ebay and comfortable year round in nyc imo.

my man!

am i not as patient and resourceful as i used to be or are we looking at different pieces?

not seeing a big price difference between made in usa and imported tbh. i have seen the camp shirts real cheap! i don't want em because tommy bahama silhouette is otm

also i like camp shirts a lot but why does every fucking short sleeve shirt have a camp collar now?

annual Maine trip.

ppl who have figured out how to live

As much as I like the patterns on a lot of camp collar shirts, I am very much sticking with butch collars; they just sit better on me. I’m currently scouting around for colourful print shirts, but with long sleeves. I never actually wear them long; instead I roll them up high above the elbow, as the shape nicely masks my skinny upper arms.

camp collar is code for “i’m available”, can’t believe you guys didn’t know this

deflatormouse, one of my oldest friends comes from some money, her family has a spot on an island off of Maine— dreamy place, but i certainly couldn’t afford such a trip if i were paying for anything besides gas, tolls, and gifts

I'm happy that this forest-green Land's End barn jacket, with a corduroy collar -- it was my late dads, from the 80s/90s -- is now suddenly in style.

like a Barbour jacket?

A lot like this one (I guess Lands' End is still making them!).

Oh, and here's the jacket itself on Ebay, though mine is less faded.

that sounds amazing table, my last comment was without irony or judgement, i'm glad you get to experience that place! i've only been to maine once, with a guy i was dating who grew up in the portland area. we went for a visit and hit boothbay, it was insanely beautiful.

as midcentury leisure shirts go i'm into the early 60's italian collar and have one in my rotation currently
https://www.themoviescene.co.uk/reviews/_img/8384-3.jpg

those barn jackets never went out of style.

i have one, it makes me look hopelessly awful

my enormous 80s bean barn jacket--with a waxed poacher's pocket and webbing for shotgun shells--is one of my prize ebay scores. it is best with the collar flipped up

I've been thinking about what I could contribute to this thread. I bought this pair of shoes a couple of months ago, they're the most comfortable shoes I've ever worn:

Allbirds Men's Tree Dasher Relay

How often do you carry shotgun shells adam

better to have extra pocket features today than to be the guy with loose shells rattling around like a fucking dork tomorrow

I might be tempted to use those shotgun-shell loops for those mini airplane liquor bottles

Or harmonicas in a bunch different keys, like the dude from Blues Traveler

Maybe just go straight-up absurdist and carry like five different kinds of toothpaste or skin moisturizer

i inherited a waxed canvas Barbour-type jacket from my uncle which i absolutely love but am wary about wearing here in the UK because of pretty vivid associations with rich land-owning Tories

something his brother told me that i never knew before is that they were originally invented as motorcycle jackets!

wear mine a fair bit in spring and autumn. walk around brockwell park with a shotgun under my arm. bray loudly at the ducks etc.

a bit of brexit for lunch

xp don’t forget your red cords

Blame it all on Jonah Hill and the Emily Dawn Long hat

hahahaha daft yank bastard. wait for it pic.twitter.com/37mRWahQGW

— dom (@JUNGLlST) November 15, 2023

i want nice wool sweaters but in this economy?

ikwym map, the moths, the moths eating my money! still hope dies eternal and there is nothing like a wool sweater for comfort and good wearing. i've got a lovely ecru jumper, which obv it's important to spill infinitessimal but immediately visible drops of coffee on first thing in the morning (yesterday) and a great brown roll neck.

recent purchases include some old town trousers - their trousers absolutely fantastic and hang beautifully - and giving them one more go on the shirts, which are fine initially, but tbh don't seem to wear very well, particularly as they shrink. this involved a long conversation with Marie, the principle dame of Old Town who has Strong Views. I deliberately ordered a larger size so with washing it would still be a good fit and she strongly demurred, and we ended up coming to a compromise. I hadn't helped that on a previous purchase a couple of years ago, which she remembered, I'd managed to forget my height, making myself two inches shorter than I am. She said at the time 'normally it's the other way round, people (especially men) pretend they are taller! (and slimmer)'.

Anyway, this time she said perfectly affably and requesting that I not take offence, that 'why is it that customers from europe never have a problem with sizes, but it's something i get persistently with people in the UK'. I suggested that perhaps assuming a certain like-for-like type of person, that europeans were generally better dressed, to which she strongly assented, 'I mean I say to my chief cutter (or whatever it was I can't remember), just look out of the *window*, for god's sake, and see how people are dressed'. I immediately had to demur somewhat, as most nations are capable of dressing as badly as each other and often seem to seek to outdo each other in this regard, and frankly who cares tbqh, and also that the sartorial bricolage of youth is often exceptionally good but not conventionally "well-dressed" as such. but i sort of get what she means - at a certain level of smartness many continental europeans do it better, I mean have you *seen* how badly clearly quite prosperous men dress even when trying to look conventionally smart?

anyway, the trousers are great.

bought some flannel shirts from proper cloth for winter too.

I'm quite addicted to this guy's beautiful voice and ASMR videos and the whole fantasy of owning a bespoke Saville Row suit - "fashion is to discredit what you have so that you go out and buy something new" lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVYSPZBBmns

lol. the way he says 'style' is delightful.

Oh yeah that is a joy to listen to. But always maybe next year, the bespoke suit.

Haven't picked up much this year - a couple of denim shirts, and a couple of pairs of Stan Ray 80s painter pants. But thinking about yet another flannel for the winter - maybe one of the UES extra-heavies that just dropped. Also maybe another arc'teryx proton in a disgusting colour (bright orange), given my proton in a disgusting colour (teal) gets a lot of wear.

I am notoriously fussy (usually the only person in the building wearing a tie, let alone a suit) but even I have never done the three-piece thing.

Lately I am digging the middle ground of "relaxed" linen and cotton sportcoats. Pockets without flaps. Slubbed fabrics. A step down from the tweedy Northeastern drunk-English-professor look I spent 25 years cultivating.

i'm a filson whore now. i got this on sale, still v expensive, but i haven't been this happy with a winter coat in my life, absolutely love it.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/B30AAOSwWUNkqipE/s-l1600.jpg

also a pair of their tin cloth pants, which how can one get excited about wearing canvas 5-pocket pants? yet i put them on and i feel awesome. a miracle. maybe next year i can afford some more. heart eyes emojis and embarrassment.

Map, I can see why you like that but... are you secretly a Jawa?

https://lumiere-a.akamaihd.net/v1/images/jawas-main_a668013b.jpeg

it's true that some say so, but nobody really knows

I can't imagine getting a 3-piece suit - it'd just be coat and trousers if I went bespoke. Deep brown donegal tweed is what I keep thinking of but really I have no call to wear a suit now, much less one that'd be pretty country. Still, one day, one day.

fizzles:

i have always liked the look of old town. feel like it would be easier to wear without someone shouting "oi monty don" at me from a passing car where i live too. but i can't deal with the shipping/returns. one day!

i have a couple of proper cloth shirts but struggled with dialing in the fit. did you need a few attempts or did you get it right first time? any tips?

currently getting a lot of wear out of these corduroys from uniqlo which unusually fit me off the rack https://www.uniqlo.com/eu/en/product/smart-corduroy-ankle-length-trousers-459706.html. also enjoying some alex mill stuff (mid price americana basics, worth a look imo).

Old Town trousers are the best but I barely wear them now I'm not in offices.

With Proper cloth, I got very close by measuring a dress shirt I could 100% trust (Sean O'Flynn bespoke, made for my wedding) though I think I actually screwed up the first order by fudging numbers to make it more casual.

proper cloth is great

caek:

this is a live issue! i’ve been using them for a while now (think it was woof who put me on to them actually) despite exchange rates etc.

initial orders fitted fine but i noticed a couple subsequently (same measurements) didn’t so much. now i will be the first to admit (after a period of denial) that this may be because i have become slightly more Of Thick Tum but also the older ones are still fine.

anyway i loosened the measures somewhat but im not sure it’s exactly right. i mean none of them look like clown clothes obv, and we’re talking relatively fine margins here. but obviously the one thing is conducive to smartness is a good fit so. might have an nyc visit soon so thinking of hitting up their measuring service tbh.

lol i did not know they had a measuring/showroom place 10 blocks from where i now sit.

IDK if this is the right thread, but I got invited to a 70s costume party and I am always really terrible at costumes, but I want to come with something a little better than just a stupid cheap looking brown polyester wide lapel jacket and a fro wig.

Help me brainstorm a look and where to get it. I sort of like the idea of a turtleneck sweater and tinted glasses, like a 70s sophisticate cocktail party sort of getup.

I have done this. My wife's company hired KC and the Sunshine Band for a 70s theme party.

Your nearest party-supply store will have a cheap peace-sign bead necklace and the requisite sunglasses. A thrift store could probably hook you up with a synthetic paisley shirt.

i can’t stand all that costume store hippie crap tbrr

i like your idea man alive

if you can’t find tinted glasses you could keep the turtleneck and go for more of a campus look and find some corduroy. i’m thinking elbow patches on a corduroy jacket

^ wtf this is how i dress

maybe fizzles can attend and you won’t have to go man alive

if i ever get invited to a 70s party i'd like to go with "joe don baker in a trucker movie"

xp Mr Kotter was another idea I had. I have the hair for it, would just need to shave the facial hair other than moustache/sideburns. Corduroy Jacket, brown pants, wide tie, wide collar shirt, IDK what kind of shoes but probably doesn't matter.

maybe fizzles can attend and you won’t have to go man alive

All these ideas are really lame
You should go as Gene Simmons in full makeup, with the fake blood pouring out of your mouth and most importantly, the pyrotechnics
You could walk around staining the carpet with the false blood and “inadvertently” starting house fires all evening.
If you don’t overdo it you are really missing an opportunity. You can dress up like a dorky fucking professor whenever you want.

sorry but my joe don baker in a trucker movie idea is objectively hot

oh shit sorry i missed that 1

to be read in the voice of a gay german videographer:

70s professor, okay yeah, sell the ice storm to me, corduroy jacket and round glasses is basic level, you're fucking the other professor's wife like john updike, i need to feel the arrogance and the absent-mindedness, i'm thinking you need a pipe and a pair of basketball shoes otherwise no one cares.

had to google. that's a timeless look
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/M/MV5BMDIzMDdmNTYtMDY2Mi00NGIwLTlmMzQtODljOWFmZWEyZmE5XkEyXkFqcGdeQXVyMzI5NDcxNzI@._V1_.jpg

i think you can dress like that whenever you want, too.

Powers Boothe as Jim Jones

https://c8.alamy.com/comp/HD4XX4/guyana-tragedy-the-story-of-jim-jones-diane-ladd-powers-boothe-1980-HD4XX4.jpg

i think you can dress like that whenever you want, too.

― Deflatormouse, Monday, January 22, 2024 8:52 PM (fifteen minutes ago) bookmarkflaglink

yeah this is basically my look tbh

hey @zach_tbd, do you think you could photoshop map's Oakleys (pictured upthread) onto Joe Don Baker's face TYVM

OK map is totally bringing it with the Updikean academia adultery theme. I bow to map's vision.

Fwiw I already have all those jackets (tweed and corduroy, with and without leather elbow patches). A former girlfriend once described my aesthetic as "drunk English professor" and I didn't disagree.

fall and winter = hippie mainer

spring and summer = crusty faggot

good looks

i'm feeling metal band tees this year

keep trying to find an outfit for my oxbow tee. keep failing. it’s not really a v good tee but i do like the album title “Love’s Holiday”.

jealous, i wish i had an oxbow shirt

finding new favorite bands from the style thread: classic

this vitriol tee is on its way

https://vitriolwarfare.bigcartel.com/product/servants-of-the-secret-fire-pre-order

this richard dawson tee i picked up last year gets a lot of wear

https://i.imgur.com/pcblyDh.jpg