Perfume / Cologne

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Recently scored some vintage Rive Gauche (in the blue atomizer) and really love it, it's transporting

Josefa, Monday, 22 June 2020 14:22 (five months ago) link

for a while I had told people that if you can't track down vintage mitsouko then hiram green's shangri-la is a good substitute, but it's been discontinued

like, I’m eating an elephant head (katherine), Monday, 22 June 2020 15:06 (five months ago) link

two weeks pass...

have been exploring the Oriza L. Legrand scents:

Vétiver Royal Bourbon is almost too much, very sweet and heavy

Chypre-Mousse is like the bottom of a pile of damp leaves. from what I’ve read it is very much loved. it is intriguing

Relique d’Amour is a dank crypt with lilys laid on top, very extreme. I hated it so much at first, it seemed really harsh, but it has grown on me

Reve d’Ossian is a bone dry incense scent, my favorite of all

Dan S, Tuesday, 7 July 2020 03:42 (four months ago) link

chypre mousse is one of the weirdest things i've ever worn -- can't say i really liked it but i'd try it again

clouds, Tuesday, 7 July 2020 18:49 (four months ago) link

weirdly desperate for perfume these days - like, i crave SCENT as a response to pandemic bullshit. but then the frustration of being unable to go into a shop and sniff vials, not without feeling unsafe. so: ordering various decants in the mail! and trying to appreciate the scents i can find in this sunscorched summer hellscape.

sean gramophone, Tuesday, 7 July 2020 19:04 (four months ago) link

I bought Clinique aromatics, will report back.

scampos mentis (gyac), Tuesday, 7 July 2020 19:35 (four months ago) link

one month passes...

i'm fulla maker's mark; let's go.

i bought my brother dior homme cologne for birthday. it's one of those things you wouldn't get because it's way common and easily available but i'm a slave to love and it's actually lovely. one day it'll be gone and then you'll all be all like "that were pretty good" so i got it now. they say it's like a lemon ice and i think in this case i'll go with what they say. the sun: beautiful. the moon: beautiful. dior homme cologne: beautiful.

i also got myself cartier roadster sport. it's got the usual indistinct citrus upfront and the herbalness: rosemary, sage, and some patchouli. when i smelled it i thought it had rosemary and when i looked up the notes it did! i give myself points when i do that and in my head i hear the sound of mario getting a coin. it smell like spearmint but it ain't got no mint. i got both of these at the mall kiosk that sell perfume. the regular mall department store don't got no cartier and the didn't even have the dior. eff them because i really wanted to give retail my money because the economy. anyway, the roadster sport is a really good designer green thing. it' glossy and smooth in a designery way but there's a touch of old school. the only problem is performance. the doir also sucks, performance wise, which is why i also gifted my brother with the cartier. two badly performing fragrances equal one decent performing thing.

re: guerlain homme l'eau boisee. i like the regular homme because it got some barbershop to it i think because the booze note actually imparts an aftershavey alcoholness (like maybe jade east or whatnot?) to it but the boisee is way better. for a green thing it performs really well. people on thee internet say it's got a celery salt note to it and i don't disagree. it feels green and the vetiver feels salted. i have the og version with the clear cap before the current reformulation in the trad bottle guerlain puts everything old in so i don't know if there's a difference.

i also have been wearing the varvatos artisan pure a lot. it smells like a neroli frag but there's no orange blossom or anything like that in there, according to fragrantica. basenotes says it's got orange flower and coffee tree flower so i'll go with that. whatever, it smell soapy to me plus it's herbal as it wanna be. i said before it smell of hay; i stand by my declaration.

also, diptyque philosykos, banana republic vintage green 78,and lilique white. this s*** is republic, r-e-p-u-b-l-i-c, i told the salesguy at br that this could be a cousin to hermes jardin sur la nil and was a step above the usual eros stuff you find in sephora and he said he wears eros and i said i didn't mean anything by that; i'm not smart enough to be a genuine frag snob. but it's true. girl you know it's true, ooh, ooh ooh, i love vintage green. it's just a simple tea fragrance with some mango (hence the hermes comparison) but for a cheap chain store offering it's spectacular. i think they discontinued it.

the lalique is mostly an oily pettigrain with maybe too much laundy-muskiness and the pencil shavings note which is the cedar and pepper but that will do, pig. of all the quotidian clean and fresh summer options this is perhaps the most of the most? i dunno, i dig it in a reliable quality thing kind of way.

also. i'm wearing my brother's lapidus homme sport. i had a sample of diptyque eau de sens and this is pretty much the same thing for cheap. this is a for real orange blossom scent, but the dish soap aspect of orange blossom is way tolerable. if you love orange blossom but hate orange blossom, get this. it's a white floral citrus aquatic, mainstream niche. i don't really like it but i'm way into it.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 29 August 2020 08:06 (two months ago) link

bbr vintage green sounds real nice

i splurged a bit and got ysl la nuit de l'homme edp - comes on like a pastry sweet shop but fades into a nice floral heart. i've probably gotten more comments on this frag than any.

have aromatics elixir and lalique encre noire sport coming in the mail soon

orson around (clouds), Saturday, 29 August 2020 14:00 (two months ago) link

la nuit de l'homme is a great one, I concur

My star fragrance of the summer is Roma by Laura Biagiotti. It's sort of a spiced citrus creamsicle that seems to come alive and evolve interestingly in hot weather. What led me to this was I scored a bottle of vintage Minotaure by Paloma Picasso which is lovely and unusual and as it turns out often likened to Roma. To me the two only have a distant relation, and in a way the Roma is more versatile since it's less zingy and more subtle/soft.

Josefa, Friday, 4 September 2020 14:59 (two months ago) link

two weeks pass...

roma uomo cedro has been one my favorites this summer, and the original is still so addictive

orson around (clouds), Thursday, 24 September 2020 03:59 (two months ago) link

head over heels for Mona di Orio's cuir

sean gramophone, Friday, 25 September 2020 14:30 (two months ago) link

i haven't worn cologne for years but tempted to get a bottle of Gorse by Laboratory Perfumes

ergonomic cher (P. Flick), Friday, 25 September 2020 14:59 (two months ago) link

three weeks pass...

i have minotaure, but it's a recent formulation. i like it but i don't get a contrast between the vanilla and tonka bean sweetness and the citrus and green notes as much as i'd like. maybe too well blended. contrast is key. the future will quote me on this. i know for real and true that sometimes modern versions of antique things lose life force in present day existenialities, they are at best sidelong glances at the beauty they once were, polaroids found in a shoebox in the attic of your danceteria days when you were the sex. other times the difference is negligible, so who knows. as the sparks song goes, i wish i looked a little better. i wish this smelled a little bit better. it's nice though, i'd still like to compare what i got to a vintage. anyway, david bowie liked it so i try to see it through his eyes.

i had a sample of roma, but i forget if the galbanum and tarragon and whatnot stand out against the benzoin and orange. i hope so. i already have hermes rocabar, which is benzoin and fir and citruseses. i lurve me some benzoin, and fir is favorite. clouds i think you said upthread roma is musty like someone else's house. that's straight poetry. if so i might get it just to wear your words.

also, clouds, clouds, clouds. do you like the encre noire sport? i ask because i really like encre noire, but am not always satorially aligned with its patrician formalism or whatever i'm trying to say. the sport can go anywhere. oh shit, my streaming radio is playing just like heaven. wait right here until i come back.

ok. sorry for the delay. anyway, i still get the inky thing that is integral to the encre noire vibe but the sport is so fresh and smooth. the last ten years of mainstream perfumery can go to hell in a knockoff gucci handbag. my take, and this is my take, so grain of salt, which when you think of it is really a weird expression because when you think of it, a lone grain of salt would be virtually imperceptible, but encre noire is high-end designer, encre noire a l'extreme is some niche shit, and sport is straight up the mainstream designer wazoo. it pops so hard. it aims to please, if you please. it's populism predicted on the illusion that the populace has decent taste. in summary and in conclusion, i give it a grade of b+ or so.

my brother got kiehl's original musk and it's innerstin. dunno where or how or when as far as donning it as a real thing but it's of the ages so i plan to go back to it. there's sweetness to it and not too animalic as i'd thought.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 17 October 2020 08:24 (one month ago) link

predicated, not predicted, dammit. almost had an undrunkable good post.

i'm wearing my brother's joop! jump. so weird. grapefruit and rosemary and heliotrope, things which should not exist in conjunction with each other. fresh grapefruit, stank rosemary, and powdery heliotrope. tres' synthetique, to boot. i think gaultier's kokorico also smells weird, maybe i'm weird but this smells weird. sometimes you smell things other people don't. bvlgari aqua marine is also weird to me; the seaweed note is so pronounced i can't see it being popular. you wade into the ocean because you spent all that money to go to florida and you're not having fun but you have your partner or family to consider and you trundle back up to your beach blanket and you've got seaweed clinging to your left calf and you pull it off in strands and toss it hither and yon and that's bvlgari aqua marine. i like it but who else would like something like that?

slugbuggy, Saturday, 17 October 2020 09:04 (one month ago) link

At one time I had bottles of both the older Minotaure and the newer one and I compared them. They're identical on initial spray but within minutes they go two separate ways, with the newer one starting a quick fade to nothingness while the older one starts to evolve, becoming less brash and dandified and more dark and ambiguous, perhaps even "older" - in Bowie terms it's like going from Ziggy Stardust to Low.

Have we talked about Rocabar before? I really like it, the way it starts sort of flinty and when that note fades a more sensual balanced accord blossoms and lingers.

I bought some Xeryus Rouge by Givenchy blind because it's supposedly located in a zone of the fragrance chart where other things I like come from. But nah, this isn't for me. Reviews talk about a hot pepper/pimiento character but all I get is a strident rose with a light suggestion of spice in the background.

Went to Sephora and sampled some Jo Malone products. One of them smells just like the beach - too much so for my taste - like dried out suntan lotion and sea grape and candy. There's one with oud in the name that's OK but I've learned that oud has a more outdoorsy nuance than what I'm comfortable with.

Josefa, Saturday, 17 October 2020 15:12 (one month ago) link

Scentbird has a series now called "Scents of Wood" that I'm trying, and the Sandalwood in Oak is great - a pleasant surprise. Very unisex, and it just smells like a fresh oak with sage - which is weird for a fragrance, but lately I'm into things that smell like raw nature. Only the slightest synthetic aspect to it. Truly smells like a log cabin.

I am done with Sephora - have a habit of falling in love with something, only to have it become total dud after I've brought home a bottle. Sticking to my subscription service for now.

Alpha 666, The Number of the Beast (I M Losted), Saturday, 17 October 2020 23:53 (one month ago) link

Anyone familiar with the Confessions of a Rebel brand? I have Get a Room coming up in my queue. Sounds great, like that means anything, but reviews are good.

Alpha 666, The Number of the Beast (I M Losted), Sunday, 18 October 2020 00:17 (one month ago) link

yeah EN sport is very wearable in most situations and a great work scent with sensible sillage/projection

orson around (clouds), Monday, 19 October 2020 12:06 (one month ago) link

try caron's yuzu man too slugbuggy

orson around (clouds), Monday, 19 October 2020 12:09 (one month ago) link

Got Miller Harris’s Tender a couple of weeks back and really like it, but it doesn’t last long enough!

I think I like Aromatics now that the weather is cooler.

scampus milne (gyac), Monday, 19 October 2020 12:12 (one month ago) link

i love aromatics, especially after the drydown and you just get whiffs of lemon verbena throughout the day. so comforting.

orson around (clouds), Monday, 19 October 2020 12:18 (one month ago) link

feel the Sephora regret... I got a bottle of terre hermes at Sephora a couple of years ago based on a sample I got with some other stuff but now I’m like “why did I buy this”

been alternating between Tom ford’s noir de noir + atelier’s cafe tuberose + maison margiela whispers in the library.. the first two are very similar but the TF is more deep dark intoxicating dreaminess whereas the atelier has more of a bright almost champagne thing going on. I don’t really know how to describe whispers.

maison margiela’s soul of the forest was my mainstay for a long time but after all the crazy wildfires near me this season it feels weird to put something on that smells kinda like burning wood.

brimstead, Monday, 19 October 2020 19:26 (one month ago) link

I don't get Terre d'Hermès, it smells so thin and weedy to me yet it's the one they seem to promote the hardest. Saks just sent me some Hermès samples which included that. Rocabar and Bel Ami are much more interesting imo.

Josefa, Monday, 19 October 2020 19:52 (one month ago) link

x-posts - yeah, the recent Miller Harris scents don't seem to hang around like their "classics" do.

djh, Tuesday, 20 October 2020 07:43 (one month ago) link

I'm currently wearing Squid by Zoologist which is, as you might expect, an inky marine. It's a lot softer than many of their other fragrances and very pleasant but not one of my absolute favourites from them.

Scampo di tutti i Scampi (ShariVari), Tuesday, 20 October 2020 08:12 (one month ago) link

A new haul of decants today and i'm wearing Zoologist's Bee, which is lovely. It reminds me of the Russian and Ukrainian churches that make beeswax candles and sell honey - a warm, resinous, floral fug.

Scampo di tutti i Scampi (ShariVari), Tuesday, 27 October 2020 13:28 (one month ago) link

fyi "Smell Ya Later" hosted by Tynan Sinks & Sable Yong is a good new podcast about fragrances

Josefa, Wednesday, 28 October 2020 14:35 (four weeks ago) link

i looked up confessions of a rebel and it's the scentbird house brand. hadn't heard of it before but i'm comparatively unacquainted with nichey things but also there isn't anything on fragrantica about them so i think that because they're exclusive to scentbird it means they're not widely discussed and not a thing on youtube and blogs and whatnot. it looks like they're going for a niche thing; if so, their price point seems reasonable. they have two main brand mission statement thingies, one being their fragrances are created from thouzillions of data points presumably culled from subscriber preferences and also that their scents are gender-fluid as opposed to being merely unisex. unisex i get, because culture says blue and pink when , but gender-fluid is a tall order; it means this thing has the potential to shift along the spectrum.

also the data driven thing: this is also an intersting notion but imo it's better to make something that's one in ten people's favorite than everybody's third favorite by averaging things out. otoh, this is a step towards my dream of achieving fragrances created by robots, for robots, so i dunno.

in summary and in conclusion, i hope these smell good, in which case, well done.

scents of wood get their scents of wood by being aged in wood caskets, like wine! i also hope this is a real thing and not just a selling point that most people can't tell the difference from anyway.

edit: the banana republic vintage 78 has a fig note, not mango. mea culpa. i don't know if it's all that in itself but i was kinda stoked that a mall outlet like br was making a stab at naturalism with its icon line, compared to their previous offerings. the vintage is a pretty good tea frag, i think, and for the price, what, who are you to complain? the only other mainstream tea things i know are the bvlgari thing by jean-claude ellena, the eau verte maybe, which is pricey, and bvlgari homme, which is just ok. i just wanted a decent tea thing for not so many denarii and this fits the bill.

i know caron mostly for their old things like 3rd man and yatagan and not so much of anything relatively recent. yuzu man sounds pretty ok and full of potential; i like petitgrain and/ or lemon leaf and/ or lemon verbena (lalique white, creed irish green tweedy thing, or at least the cheap armaf clone i have) and there's some green contrast with the basil and from what the internet says the yuzu is fuller and richer than that of the issey miyake which i think is fine so that seems like an entry in the plus column. like, if you were setting me up on a blind date and all you told me was petite, redhead with frackles, and vast pop-cultural knowledge i'd be, historically i like those attributes, but at the same time i don't want to contribute to a culture of generalization and objectification and fetishism, so i'll just say i'm looking forward to having a nice date.

also, i saw a review of geoffrey beene bowling green in which the opinion was proffered that it was a lemon verbena bomb. it's way cheap on the internets, and a classic old school scent although not really lauded, so it might be up someone's alley, if it works out that way.

i have terre d'hermes gifted because it seemed the thing to have, i assume. the initial blast is all "omg this is such a modern classic that any man should have as an integral part of his collection" but i am also ambivalent in that i don't love wearing it but it's jean-claude ellena's most popular thing and so representative of its era like grey flannel once was but god that's way too much vetiver tom for grey vetiver is way smoother, such a competent office manager scent, crisp and starched-shirt and forthright. too much goddam vetiver, to my nose, is terre.

what else? my brother has a recent formulation of paco rabanne pour homme. someone on the internets said something about the honey note it has because someone else alluded to a certain sweetness they detected in paco pabanne pour homme about which they couldn't be more specific and so the source of the sweetness was identified by the responding party. before this, i never noticed a honey note. so last time i was over at his place i sprayed it on my wrist and scanned the aforementioned wrist to try to discern the honey note. now, i can't not notice a honey note. i'm not going to need therapy but this really brings up issues of perception vs reality, and the construction thereof. they sat knowledge is power, but according to the law of conservation of energy, me gaining power means i sap that power from another source. in the 80s, i used to wear polo green. didn't love it (luv u armani pour homme, my boo, and grey flannel, you sexy bitch) but i respected that shit. it was FUCKING POLO. i saw a video of steve martin, who majored in philosophy in lol college, who said he didn't remember anything specific about philosophy later on but in general he remembered general concepts, and generally speaking he knew in his core that as a comedian, attempting to deconstruct comedy only resulted in killing the thing he loved. he were adverse to the notion. i hope i didn't kill paco rabanne over honey.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 31 October 2020 09:54 (three weeks ago) link

modern polo is lesser bobka because of ifra restrictions on oakmoss; a lot of classics also suck because of that, and also because of cheaper substitutes of aroma chemicals and so forth as certain fragrances become heritage and not big-time enough to warrant full monetary attention, i get that, whatever. it isn't even about polo, specifically. there was a gestalt, branding meant something. if i can pick a thing apart to its components then i lose that somehow. i had a red polo jacket that i wore with the collar turned up. a casual acquaintance really wanted to borrow it to wear out on the town. i declined; i feared the common circumstance of not getting it back ever. i hated to be a dick but it was the right thing to do. sorry, todd, you were a cool guy and i wished polo jacket upon you but not at my expense. that red polo jacket had valence; it was woven out of the same fabric as cameo's she strange and level 42's something about you. if i let it go it'd never come back. polo is dead because i now am aware of the colonialist aspect to the marketing appeal but those were the days. i remember thinking lacoste was the shit and then seeing the lo-life contingent sporting all these new combinations of striped polo shits i knew a new era had dawned and i was behind the times. so, polo. i forget my point but the scent smelled the way the clothes looked. now, i can only see pine needles, oakmoss or the lack thereof, and tobacco when i smell it.

life ain't really funky, unless it's got that pop, says prince, and i think i'm msissing the pop for the trees.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 31 October 2020 11:18 (three weeks ago) link

polo green is so i wonder if i take you home by lisa lisa and full force with cult jam in the proustian sense. not even my favorite but nothing else gets there so specifically, it can't be anything else. they say the universal is specific, but i'd like to submit, the specific is also pretty specific. lately, you've expressing to me, how much you've like to to make love. that's pretty damn specific. fuck timeless. and you know and i know if we get together emotions will get to work. polo green is right THERE, for me, if only in my memory.when i smell the current version i only get memories of memories.

conversely, you might have none of these associations.

.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 31 October 2020 12:33 (three weeks ago) link

<3

some of the best writing on the internet in this thread.

Li'l Brexit (Tracer Hand), Saturday, 31 October 2020 12:38 (three weeks ago) link

^^ seconded.

A Scampo Darkly (Le Bateau Ivre), Saturday, 31 October 2020 12:40 (three weeks ago) link

Love this thread

mom tossed in kimchee (quincie), Saturday, 31 October 2020 17:24 (three weeks ago) link

I've ordered a sample of a fragrance inspired by Ilya Khrzhanovsky's magnificent 2004 film Chetyre (4) because, mystifyingly, it exists and i must know what it smells like.

I'm wearing Ormonde Jayne's Ormonde Man today, which has a fancy list of ingredients, like black hemlock and agarwood, but really just smells like a fairly generic cologne - albeit the kind of subtle, reassuringly expensive cologne they mist into the executive lounges of upmarket Abu Dhabi hotels to gently mask the smell of the buffet cheese counter.

Scampo di tutti i Scampi (ShariVari), Tuesday, 3 November 2020 17:27 (three weeks ago) link

l'air du desert marocain today - taking deep breaths of the coriander seed and trying to waft the spicier incense notes southward, like a spell

sean gramophone, Tuesday, 3 November 2020 17:56 (three weeks ago) link

I like Ormonde Man but it is slightly mystifying why it's 2x as expensive as comparable products. But fwiw I once went to Aedes in Manhattan (a shop dedicated to boutique fragrances) and sampled about 50 different things before deciding that Ormonde Man and Ormonde Montabaco were about the most pleasing of the batch. It's probably not a great idea to sample that many at a time, I now realize.

Josefa, Tuesday, 3 November 2020 18:20 (three weeks ago) link

I've ordered a sample of a fragrance inspired by Ilya Khrzhanovsky's magnificent 2004 film Chetyre (4) because, mystifyingly, it exists and i must know what it smells like.

The short answer is 'Chanel - Cuir de Russie' - leather, birch, clary sage and all. It's good but not likely to shift ELdO's Rien as my smoky leather of choice. It's one of three samples composed by Prin Lomros i got. Kira Kira is pleasant but suffers from the same problem as every other green apple scent i've tried - being practically indistinguishable from the Body Shop's stalwart £6 Apple Blossom spray.

The most interesting was Zoologist's Sloth, which has an echo of Bat in the over-ripe jungle fruit base but layers a bunch of herbal notes on top. As a representation of a chill little dude covered in weird green muck, it seems spot-on.

Zoologist's Koala was composed by Spyros Drosopoulos of Baruti and has his hallmark photo-realism in the eucalyptus and pine but not a lot other than that going on.

Beaufort’s Terror and Magnificence starts like a softer, more complex take on Miller Harris’ classic Feuilles de Tabac but, within half an hour, morphs into the kind of inexpensive oud you can find in Arabian drugstores, which is fine but you might as well go for something by Al Rasasi that costs a fraction of the price and will probably clear your sinuses as well.

Their Rake and Ruin is a more polite take on the theme of 1805 Tonnerre – a Historical Reenactment Society version of Austerlitz with cap guns standing in for fire-breathing muskets.

Scampo di tutti i Scampi (ShariVari), Tuesday, 17 November 2020 15:28 (one week ago) link


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