the davidoff good life is actually from 1998 while the joop! what about adam is from 1992, so in between there were other fresh and green things like tommy and polo sport (1995 and 1994) that factor into the equation. and then there's gap grass (also 1994), which is green but i think leans floral so that might be closer to the good life than is the what about adam. so i was placing the good life into a 90210 slot in the timeline when it's really dawson's creek.
jo malone does green and that would be a good place to dick around in to find fragrance qua fragrance i actually dig apart from the fragrance as pop culture artifact thing i'm awkwardly bumping around in but also i'm cheap so there's that.
― slugbuggy, Sunday, 1 December 2019 09:27 (eight months ago) link
sluggbuggy, when you speak of Dior's Eau Sauvage do you mean the EDT or the EDP, and if the latter do you mean in the black box or the white box?
― Josefa, Sunday, 8 December 2019 00:31 (eight months ago) link
did not see this, sorry. i meant that the edt, imho, is is the one of which the eau de rochas homme points towards. not exactly a copy but i would say ballparkish. the eau sauvage edp is the resinous myrrh one, in the 2011 formulation. i had to look it up, there's a 2017 formulation that has elemi balsam instead, and i think it is the one in the white box. i haven't smelled that one. the 2011 was gaw-juss; i dunno what the newish one is like. from what i can tell, doir pulls that kind of shit, changing good things to where they're not even the same although they carry the same name, lie dior homme sport, which used to be iris and giger and citron but now is blood orange and sanndalwood.
acquisitions/ stuff i got, for crimbus and birfday presents:
a vintage splash bottle of versace versus uomo. either the top notes have burnt off or the sample i got from a sample shop online was not the versace. the sample had strong fruity top notes, i could discern apricot in particular, and the bottle doesn't have that. still, i get fir in spades and the trad lavender and whatnot, so it's all good more or less.
l'instant de guerlain pour homme edp. this is the latest formulation in their standard bottle they put all their oldies in. idk about different formulations, but goddam, i am one elegant mf wearing this.
kenzo jungle homme. it donut have ginger but it smell like ginger. plus sandalwood (which i tend to spell "sandlewood" usually}. i think this is just discontinued, so i got it right on time. typical woody spicy, but that's my jam. there's this thing where you disregard things that are pretty ok, even pretty ok plus, but you overlook because you're looking for that next level shit. i got my brother the alexandria fragrances clone of the iconic gucci envy and although i never smelled the original, the alexandria thing is pretty damn nice, also a ginger and sandalwood thing. the kenzo and gucci are both fromm 1998. i would say the alexandria, and presumably by extension, the gucci, is superior to the kenzo, but the kenzo gives me what i need so i'm happy with that. people want stupid prices for gucci envy on ebay and such and i'm not trying to hear that noise.
lalique encre noire sport. this is the mall version of encre noire. i like it! the grapefruit freshens it up and the lavender smooths it out and makes it more in line with stuff like gucci guilty and whatever you an get from macy's but it's encre noire so it smells good when you smell it. it's what the fragcom (fragrance community, which is a thing online) calls a "dumb reach." it's versatile season-wise and occasion-wise. also, you can get this online discounted to about 25 united states currencies even thought it retails for like hermes prices. if you dig encre noire but find it too fancy, this works for everyday.
l'eau bleue d'issey pour homme. i can't wait for spring, so i can rock this. it's weird; there's cypress and juniper berries and so much rosemary, which to me has a straight up funk to it. these are all stank notes to the contemporary snoot. it reminded me somewhat of paco rabanne pour homme and also joop! jump, which are both lousy with rosemary, but the comparison is only just so. before i knew what the notes were, i smelled this at the mall kiosk that has all the non-standard stuff in it, it's where i got the og ysl rive gauche and kenzo tokyo for their original retail prices even though they both go for way too much on ebay now. anyway, i thought it smelled of lichens or moss, not the soapy way oakmoss smells in perfumery but reminiscent of green moss you'd peel off a rotted tree trunk while doing hiking outdoorsey stuff and feeling all dark and woodsmany and full of nature and state-parkmanshipfullness. you know, when somebody passes you on the trail and they're like "how's it goin'" and you're like "straight up dank like a gangsta named hank" and you mean it. i think knowing what the notes are dispels this perception somewhat, in that i think of rosemary and musty coniferous shit qua rosemary and musty coniferous shit when i smell my wrist instead of when i bite into a york peppermint patty i get the sensation of trekking through virgin forest after a rain type of thing. anyway, for a mainstream designer it's a bit weird and not at all related to the og issey miyake yuzo citrus thing.
alexandria fragrances hysteria. a givenchy insense clone. the og insense is considered, by some youtube reviewers, a lost classic. i admit, i bit ecause of the rare thing categorization. this is my mission of burma, the thing i missed first time around but want to like now, because taste. straight up retconning my cv. this has all the florals, but it's butch because it has a fir backbone. also, insense is from 1993, which is in my intezone sweet spot, like versace versus uomo and laura biagiotti roma uomo and egoiste! (slams shutters!). of the florals i get mostly lily-of-the-valley, and also the aldehydes and fir. i expect this to bloom once the weather becomes more humid and warmer. spring and summer things tend to lie flat in cold and dry conditions so i can't really say tho it'e good now so whoa whoa whoa whoa, whoa whoa whoa, things can only get better, howard jones.
― slugbuggy, Saturday, 15 February 2020 09:33 (five months ago) link
also i got myself aqua fahrenheit. for summer. 4.2 ounce bottle, so i'm all set. not mind-blowing, but i actually really kinda like it so i think i'll wear it.
― slugbuggy, Saturday, 15 February 2020 10:25 (five months ago) link
Do you have a Guerlain counter where you shop and if so have you tried the top shelf things they have (at Saks they're pulled out of a drawer) like Chamade or the two versions of Arsène Lupin?
Btw you're right about the reformulated Eau Sauvage edp, it comes in a white box, but curiously I see the 2011 formulation in the black box more often in stores.
― Josefa, Saturday, 15 February 2020 15:58 (five months ago) link
i love l'instant edp. never gets compliments but gets some interesting reactions, such as one lady telling me I smelled like someone she knew decades ago.
― clouds, Wednesday, 19 February 2020 17:56 (five months ago) link
mostly i get guerlain online because i live nowhere good. there's a saks within driving distance but i haven't been yet so i don't know what they have. so far i only know the standard guerlain stuff: vetiver, habit rouge, heritage and modern things like l'instant and homme.
― slugbuggy, Thursday, 5 March 2020 12:41 (five months ago) link
Miller Harris are presenting an online discussion about some of their fragrances - they're flagging them in advance so you can order samples of the fragrances that are being talked about (3 for a tenner, I think). It's one of those things that I ought to do because I don't really have the language to talk about fragrance in a meaningful way but aren't likely to remember to do.
― djh, Saturday, 28 March 2020 15:20 (four months ago) link
I want to make a poll out of this incredible and exhaustive set of perfume reviews.
― k*r*n koltrane (Simon H.), Thursday, 4 June 2020 19:37 (two months ago) link
been wearing habit rouge and guerlain homme l'eau boisee a lot lately
― clouds, Monday, 22 June 2020 02:38 (one month ago) link
guerlain's mitsouko is still the perfume of all time I think
― Dan S, Monday, 22 June 2020 02:43 (one month ago) link
it is intense and nostalgic, with peach and mostly now forbidden oak moss
― Dan S, Monday, 22 June 2020 02:53 (one month ago) link
i have the edt -- my bottle's almost empty, need to get the edp
― clouds, Monday, 22 June 2020 03:24 (one month ago) link
I think vintage Mitsouko EdP is worth seeking out
― Dan S, Monday, 22 June 2020 04:25 (one month ago) link
Vintage Coco is the same way. I like it again but only the old formula.
― felicity, Monday, 22 June 2020 06:08 (one month ago) link
Recently scored some vintage Rive Gauche (in the blue atomizer) and really love it, it's transporting
― Josefa, Monday, 22 June 2020 14:22 (one month ago) link
for a while I had told people that if you can't track down vintage mitsouko then hiram green's shangri-la is a good substitute, but it's been discontinued
― like, I’m eating an elephant head (katherine), Monday, 22 June 2020 15:06 (one month ago) link
have been exploring the Oriza L. Legrand scents:
Vétiver Royal Bourbon is almost too much, very sweet and heavy
Chypre-Mousse is like the bottom of a pile of damp leaves. from what I’ve read it is very much loved. it is intriguing
Relique d’Amour is a dank crypt with lilys laid on top, very extreme. I hated it so much at first, it seemed really harsh, but it has grown on me
Reve d’Ossian is a bone dry incense scent, my favorite of all
― Dan S, Tuesday, 7 July 2020 03:42 (one month ago) link
chypre mousse is one of the weirdest things i've ever worn -- can't say i really liked it but i'd try it again
― clouds, Tuesday, 7 July 2020 18:49 (one month ago) link
weirdly desperate for perfume these days - like, i crave SCENT as a response to pandemic bullshit. but then the frustration of being unable to go into a shop and sniff vials, not without feeling unsafe. so: ordering various decants in the mail! and trying to appreciate the scents i can find in this sunscorched summer hellscape.
― sean gramophone, Tuesday, 7 July 2020 19:04 (one month ago) link
I bought Clinique aromatics, will report back.
― scampos mentis (gyac), Tuesday, 7 July 2020 19:35 (one month ago) link