Perfume / Cologne

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oddam, i wish i could just pop into a boutique and just smell all the things. on the other hand, where i live i can have the same house for 1/3 the price or whatever. life is a game of tradeoffs and percentages.

i ave the rive gauche a full wearing and it's gorgeous, but it still smells like barbasol thet dries down to azzaro ph with the anise and oakmoss and herbalness. it's like if the local diner shut down and in its stead was opened a hipster cusine experience that offered authentic diner fare for ten times the price, which is justified because the omelletes and hash browns are prepareded

slugbuggy, Saturday, 23 February 2019 08:06 (one year ago) link

didn't mean to do that. here be the full post:

goddam, i wish i could just pop into a boutique and just smell all the things. however, housing where i live is cheap so there's that tradeoff.

i gave the rive gauche a full wearing and it's gorgeous, but it still smells like barbasol that dries down to azzaro ph with the anise and oakmoss and herbalness. it's like if the local diner shut down and in its stead was opened a hipster-foodie cuisine experience that offered authentic diner fare for ten times the price, which is justified because the omelettes and hash browns are prepended in authentic diner style, except there's tarragon and because presentation. it's like when paul simon or david byrne do world music or when picasso did his thing with the damoiselles d'avignon. it's problematic, because i'm from the 80's and i'm used to the idea of someone going out and finding something that was always there and re-contextualizing something for me, like were basquiat or especially haring deep-culture aspirants who broke through or emissaries from the liminal boundaries who prospered from their ability to sherpa content from culture to culture? long story short, i had a bottle of pinaud clubman, the aromatic fougere of fougeres, and i never wore it because it was too fougere. the rive gauche is derivative of barbershop, but it's not from a real barbershop. there's still another bottle of rive gbauche at the place i got it and my brother was pondering whether he should get it or just get a bottle of brut because he reads all the old-school powerehouse blogs and imho he should get the fucking bottle of rive gauche.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 23 February 2019 08:58 (one year ago) link

what i could have just said, were it not for all the knob creek, is that the rive gauche feels very fancy for a barbershop fragrance. i felt like it references a different milieu than the one it inhabits. but then again, there are probably very fancy barbershops.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 23 February 2019 21:57 (one year ago) link

Being on a budget, I got a subscription to Scentbird. I think it's a good value, but the selection is patchy. Still I've got enough 15 ml bottles of expensive fragrances that I enjoy. One that sounded promising but which I hated was Black Tulip by Atelier Bloem. It's $195 for a bottle! But I can try it for sixteen bucks a month. Just as well, because it smells like an older woman at church. It's very well composed, just certainly not worth $200. But thanks to Scentbird I have a massive collection of expensive scents. Molinard Figue was my favorite so far. I got Pinrose's Gilded Fox, which had been a favorite, but the caramel wears on me. And Etat Libre d'Orange Tilda Swinton Like This was pretty good.

I'm teaching myself perfuming, though, and am mostly enjoying my own concoctions more. Been doing this for a couple of years and have about a thousand dollars worth of essential oils, attars and aroma chems. But the stuff is coming along nice. Wearing a cherry scent today that also has oud, pink lotus and jasmine.

Twee.TV (I M Losted), Tuesday, 26 February 2019 13:01 (one year ago) link

Where ilm meets ile ...

https://www.filigreeandshadow.co/products/incurable

A Fetching Gentleman in Fragrance Form
Byron on May 10, 2018

Incurable exhumes those remote memories of that young, sophisticated uncle who was a professional illustrator and who smoked an English pipe and owned russet leather armchairs and a collection of antique mechanical coin banks. The one who knew how to properly wear a sport coat and who wielded a generous sense of erudite humor. The one who proved to be the only example of a debonair man to be found in the entire living family tree but who abandoned it once his wife died and he disappeared into someone else’s family never to be heard from again.

Incurable is warm and piquant, dreamy and urbane… like the ghost of someone you wanted to know but never got the chance to.

djh, Wednesday, 6 March 2019 20:47 (one year ago) link

the bubblegum note can be strange -- a scent I like but never wear as often as I should is mirabella by dsh, which is a really-nice plum-oakmoss thing along the lines of femme/mitsouko/things trying to be either of those, but the beginning is straight-up unmistakable bubblicious

theorizing your yells (katherine), Wednesday, 6 March 2019 21:52 (one year ago) link

I've bought some of those indie / alt perfumes, but TBH, the branding on many of them is too precious or humorless goth. I mean, if you want to sell, you should broaden your market. Like I don't identify with the rich uncle at all! And then there are all of the perfumers who use Eurocentric and / or Victorian imagery, as if we all relate to or have those values. It's the same problem that plagues the DIY world in general, with all of its apothecary / homesteading nostalgia. A woman's perfume should respect all women, and sometimes the "mysterious magical witchy woman" crap is just plain sexist.

I am working on a fragrance inspired by Italian women in my family - the smell of the purses, like powdery makeup, rose, tobacco and candy. I didn't think it would work (I had the concept first), but I wear it all of the time, it really smells like my memories!

Twee.TV (I M Losted), Thursday, 7 March 2019 01:03 (one year ago) link

yeah, the branding slightly annoys me, but no more than, like, the porny tom ford/(k*l*an)-type branding does. but, like, deconstructing eden's melisande is a really pretty cinnamon-jasmine-amber thing that I could more or less live in a cloud of, and also is named after a character in a thoroughly embarrassing book series

theorizing your yells (katherine), Thursday, 7 March 2019 20:22 (one year ago) link

damn no idea his stuff was that controversial

theorizing your yells (katherine), Thursday, 7 March 2019 20:23 (one year ago) link

one month passes...

The fragrance I got this month was Caswell-Massey's Centuries Sandalwood. It's kind of a dud. It's unisex, and although it claims to have other ingredients, like cypriol, which I LUV, it just seems to be all overpowering Australian sandalwood, which given its gluey, synthetic aspect, I don't think is real. Or maybe it's a mixture of authentic Australian sandalwood and aromachemical. In any case, it's not very subtle. I'll keep looking for a decent sandalwood scent, but given the unsustainability of the stuff, I'm not hopeful.

I used to buy sandalwood oil in college, when real mysore was more affordable. I guess I have to leave those days behind me, because the Australian variant isn't getting it done.

Oh by the way, I got some amyris, which is supposed to be "west Indian sandalwood" and I like it a lot, although it smells nothing like sandalwood.

Have you tried Night of Olay? (I M Losted), Saturday, 4 May 2019 21:55 (one year ago) link

three weeks pass...

There seems to be a Miller Harris offer that if you take an empty/full bottle of any Perfume/Cologne to one of their stores, you will get half price on any of their fragrances.

djh, Sunday, 26 May 2019 20:42 (one year ago) link

Oh ... or use the code "RECYCLE" online.

djh, Tuesday, 28 May 2019 18:09 (one year ago) link

two weeks pass...

Hey, I found a new way for people on a budget to get $$$ perfumes for cheap. Some people are buying big bottles of expensive or rare perfumes and bottling them in smaller bottles. I got my own personal holy grail - five ounces of CHANEL NO. 19. It has galbanum, and I usually can't afford it, because you usually have to get it from France and pay a jillion dollars for it because nobody in the US carries it anymore. So it came in the mail today, and it's the REAL DEAL. I got into perfume because I always wanted to make my own version of Chanel no. 19 but I can't get the galbanum right...so now I have my very own to study. So if you're looking for that expensive shit, try Ebay!

Equal Time for Dingelschnitzen (I M Losted), Wednesday, 12 June 2019 02:10 (one year ago) link

I love Chanel No. 19

Dan S, Wednesday, 12 June 2019 02:13 (one year ago) link

more astringent and modern than No. 5, but both are classics

Dan S, Wednesday, 12 June 2019 02:19 (one year ago) link

looking at it in retrospect those really are the two classic Chanel fragrances

Dan S, Wednesday, 12 June 2019 02:27 (one year ago) link

Yeah, it's a classic and a long time ago, it was my signature. I like the slightly masculine or astringent aspect, but it is just so well-done and original. The new formulation is nice, but not as good and the personality isn't as strong. I loved the old one. It was greener and maybe more masculine and assertive. I guess you can get no.19 straight from the Chanel website, but I don't feel like paying $125 the new formula - I don't think it's worth it.

So, this bottle made me want to buy a few vintage bottles of the stuff that are on Ebay, and they're not really expensive, but prohibitive enough on my budget that I'm not sure if I should spring for it. If I had my druthers, I'd have a whole cabinet full of the original stuff. This is why I tried to concoct my own version - which was nice but nothing like the original. I mean, every description of the formula has something different in it. Apparently it has rose and leather in it, whereas I smell greens, vetiver and iris. I just love galbanum, which is a weird thing to put in a "classic" major house fragrance.

I'm just wondering if anyone has sprung for vintage bottles of classic fragrances, and if they hold up well, or if they morph over time. The few vintage bottles I have of stuff are not that great. The bottles I want to buy are from the seventies and the eighties.

And Chanel - as weak as the reformulations are, Chanel is still my go-to as far as designer fragrances. Some of those other fashion houses just produce overrated shit. The Chanels never disappoint, at least, and are worth the money you pay for them.

Equal Time for Dingelschnitzen (I M Losted), Wednesday, 12 June 2019 18:00 (one year ago) link

five months pass...

i got some samples! and then, opinions were had!

miller harris - fleurs de bois. what it says. citrus, florals, but then woods. it's got that miller harris thing going on.

ferrari - noble fig and bright neroli. ferrari is mostly not good except recently they're going for actually good and these aren't bad. the noble fig is mostly orange and fig leaf and assorted whatnot. i have ferragamo pour homme, which is grapefruit and fyg leef, and i forget what spices is supposed to be in there but it has eugenol which is cloves and then at the end there's what youtubist lanier smith describes as italian shoe leather, which is apt as ferragamo is an italian shoe company. that guy's a hoot, he makes himself a cocktail and goes on to relate a totally made up story about his travels and talks about fragrances almost as an afterthought. the bright neroli is a cheap alternative to neroli portofino but i got varvatos artisan pure at marshalls which is an orange blossom thing with citrus but also there's this herbal thing happening that smells like a hay note to me, so hey! don't need the bright neroli which is a cheaper neroli portofino because i have the varvatos which was pretty good for the summer.

got a vintage fahrenheit sample and it's better than the current but not but so much that i'd spring for a vintage bottle.

rochas eau de rochas smells like dior eau sauvage but for cheap.

i got davidoff good life, which is like joop! what about adam but not quite as good, amd escada magnetism, which is saffron and tolu balsalm. i have the versace man, which is saffron and tobacco and what i feel is too much amber, but the tolu in the magnetism has a soft touch to it. the joop! has a discernible tomato leaf note, while the good life has fig leaf, which isn't present as fig leaf as much as a general green note. alexandria fragrances, which is a clone house, has a good life clone but not and adam clone, so i got that. and they have a magnetism called called chic magnet but okay. as far as i can tell the clones ae spot on, as much as can be expected. getting vintage bottles of the originals on ebay and so forth is right out because price.

also at marshalls they had a varvatos signature so i got that. it's got this dates note and some leather or what passes as leather so it's not bad, for a designer. the dates i kind of compare to the dried fruit notes in timbuktu, not that they're on an even plane but the timbuktu is a bit more complicated and the varvatos was there.

slugbuggy, Friday, 29 November 2019 12:08 (eight months ago) link

the good life clone is called the best life and i wouldn't go that far but it really has the early 90s interzone thing happening that was in the og davidoff which is what i want: transitional, neither heavy 80s oakmossy old skool but not full-on 90s calone aquatic unbearable lightness of being contrariness. i get sandlewood in the drydown which is always a plus because sandlewood, even if it's the cheap synthetic kind since no more sandlewood. also black currant, which i don't know how that plays nowadays, seems like an old-timey note. there's a good floral accord from the violet and a green accord pulling it in the other direction that's always in play so it has an intestesting tension going on, at least from my perspecyive/ experience level, i don't ask for too much. philosykos is still ahead in the green race but this isn't too far behind.

alexandria also has a givenchy insense clone in which i have an interest, but they also have dumb stuff like an hermes terre d'hermes clone, which, you can still get terre d'hermes for about the same price per ounce.

slugbuggy, Friday, 29 November 2019 12:42 (eight months ago) link

the davidoff good life is actually from 1998 while the joop! what about adam is from 1992, so in between there were other fresh and green things like tommy and polo sport (1995 and 1994) that factor into the equation. and then there's gap grass (also 1994), which is green but i think leans floral so that might be closer to the good life than is the what about adam. so i was placing the good life into a 90210 slot in the timeline when it's really dawson's creek.

jo malone does green and that would be a good place to dick around in to find fragrance qua fragrance i actually dig apart from the fragrance as pop culture artifact thing i'm awkwardly bumping around in but also i'm cheap so there's that.

slugbuggy, Sunday, 1 December 2019 09:27 (eight months ago) link

sluggbuggy, when you speak of Dior's Eau Sauvage do you mean the EDT or the EDP, and if the latter do you mean in the black box or the white box?

Josefa, Sunday, 8 December 2019 00:31 (seven months ago) link

two months pass...

did not see this, sorry. i meant that the edt, imho, is is the one of which the eau de rochas homme points towards. not exactly a copy but i would say ballparkish. the eau sauvage edp is the resinous myrrh one, in the 2011 formulation. i had to look it up, there's a 2017 formulation that has elemi balsam instead, and i think it is the one in the white box. i haven't smelled that one. the 2011 was gaw-juss; i dunno what the newish one is like. from what i can tell, doir pulls that kind of shit, changing good things to where they're not even the same although they carry the same name, lie dior homme sport, which used to be iris and giger and citron but now is blood orange and sanndalwood.

acquisitions/ stuff i got, for crimbus and birfday presents:

a vintage splash bottle of versace versus uomo. either the top notes have burnt off or the sample i got from a sample shop online was not the versace. the sample had strong fruity top notes, i could discern apricot in particular, and the bottle doesn't have that. still, i get fir in spades and the trad lavender and whatnot, so it's all good more or less.

l'instant de guerlain pour homme edp. this is the latest formulation in their standard bottle they put all their oldies in. idk about different formulations, but goddam, i am one elegant mf wearing this.

kenzo jungle homme. it donut have ginger but it smell like ginger. plus sandalwood (which i tend to spell "sandlewood" usually}. i think this is just discontinued, so i got it right on time. typical woody spicy, but that's my jam. there's this thing where you disregard things that are pretty ok, even pretty ok plus, but you overlook because you're looking for that next level shit. i got my brother the alexandria fragrances clone of the iconic gucci envy and although i never smelled the original, the alexandria thing is pretty damn nice, also a ginger and sandalwood thing. the kenzo and gucci are both fromm 1998. i would say the alexandria, and presumably by extension, the gucci, is superior to the kenzo, but the kenzo gives me what i need so i'm happy with that. people want stupid prices for gucci envy on ebay and such and i'm not trying to hear that noise.

lalique encre noire sport. this is the mall version of encre noire. i like it! the grapefruit freshens it up and the lavender smooths it out and makes it more in line with stuff like gucci guilty and whatever you an get from macy's but it's encre noire so it smells good when you smell it. it's what the fragcom (fragrance community, which is a thing online) calls a "dumb reach." it's versatile season-wise and occasion-wise. also, you can get this online discounted to about 25 united states currencies even thought it retails for like hermes prices. if you dig encre noire but find it too fancy, this works for everyday.

l'eau bleue d'issey pour homme. i can't wait for spring, so i can rock this. it's weird; there's cypress and juniper berries and so much rosemary, which to me has a straight up funk to it. these are all stank notes to the contemporary snoot. it reminded me somewhat of paco rabanne pour homme and also joop! jump, which are both lousy with rosemary, but the comparison is only just so. before i knew what the notes were, i smelled this at the mall kiosk that has all the non-standard stuff in it, it's where i got the og ysl rive gauche and kenzo tokyo for their original retail prices even though they both go for way too much on ebay now. anyway, i thought it smelled of lichens or moss, not the soapy way oakmoss smells in perfumery but reminiscent of green moss you'd peel off a rotted tree trunk while doing hiking outdoorsey stuff and feeling all dark and woodsmany and full of nature and state-parkmanshipfullness. you know, when somebody passes you on the trail and they're like "how's it goin'" and you're like "straight up dank like a gangsta named hank" and you mean it. i think knowing what the notes are dispels this perception somewhat, in that i think of rosemary and musty coniferous shit qua rosemary and musty coniferous shit when i smell my wrist instead of when i bite into a york peppermint patty i get the sensation of trekking through virgin forest after a rain type of thing. anyway, for a mainstream designer it's a bit weird and not at all related to the og issey miyake yuzo citrus thing.

alexandria fragrances hysteria. a givenchy insense clone. the og insense is considered, by some youtube reviewers, a lost classic. i admit, i bit ecause of the rare thing categorization. this is my mission of burma, the thing i missed first time around but want to like now, because taste. straight up retconning my cv. this has all the florals, but it's butch because it has a fir backbone. also, insense is from 1993, which is in my intezone sweet spot, like versace versus uomo and laura biagiotti roma uomo and egoiste! (slams shutters!). of the florals i get mostly lily-of-the-valley, and also the aldehydes and fir. i expect this to bloom once the weather becomes more humid and warmer. spring and summer things tend to lie flat in cold and dry conditions so i can't really say tho it'e good now so whoa whoa whoa whoa, whoa whoa whoa, things can only get better, howard jones.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 15 February 2020 09:33 (five months ago) link

also i got myself aqua fahrenheit. for summer. 4.2 ounce bottle, so i'm all set. not mind-blowing, but i actually really kinda like it so i think i'll wear it.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 15 February 2020 10:25 (five months ago) link

Do you have a Guerlain counter where you shop and if so have you tried the top shelf things they have (at Saks they're pulled out of a drawer) like Chamade or the two versions of Arsène Lupin?

Btw you're right about the reformulated Eau Sauvage edp, it comes in a white box, but curiously I see the 2011 formulation in the black box more often in stores.

Josefa, Saturday, 15 February 2020 15:58 (five months ago) link

i love l'instant edp. never gets compliments but gets some interesting reactions, such as one lady telling me I smelled like someone she knew decades ago.

clouds, Wednesday, 19 February 2020 17:56 (five months ago) link

two weeks pass...

mostly i get guerlain online because i live nowhere good. there's a saks within driving distance but i haven't been yet so i don't know what they have. so far i only know the standard guerlain stuff: vetiver, habit rouge, heritage and modern things like l'instant and homme.

slugbuggy, Thursday, 5 March 2020 12:41 (four months ago) link

three weeks pass...

Miller Harris are presenting an online discussion about some of their fragrances - they're flagging them in advance so you can order samples of the fragrances that are being talked about (3 for a tenner, I think). It's one of those things that I ought to do because I don't really have the language to talk about fragrance in a meaningful way but aren't likely to remember to do.

djh, Saturday, 28 March 2020 15:20 (four months ago) link

two months pass...

https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Histoires-de-Parfums/1740-Marquis-de-Sade-8590.html

I want to make a poll out of this incredible and exhaustive set of perfume reviews.

k*r*n koltrane (Simon H.), Thursday, 4 June 2020 19:37 (two months ago) link

two weeks pass...

been wearing habit rouge and guerlain homme l'eau boisee a lot lately

clouds, Monday, 22 June 2020 02:38 (one month ago) link

guerlain's mitsouko is still the perfume of all time I think

Dan S, Monday, 22 June 2020 02:43 (one month ago) link

it is intense and nostalgic, with peach and mostly now forbidden oak moss

Dan S, Monday, 22 June 2020 02:53 (one month ago) link

i have the edt -- my bottle's almost empty, need to get the edp

clouds, Monday, 22 June 2020 03:24 (one month ago) link

I think vintage Mitsouko EdP is worth seeking out

Dan S, Monday, 22 June 2020 04:25 (one month ago) link

Vintage Coco is the same way. I like it again but only the old formula.

felicity, Monday, 22 June 2020 06:08 (one month ago) link

Recently scored some vintage Rive Gauche (in the blue atomizer) and really love it, it's transporting

Josefa, Monday, 22 June 2020 14:22 (one month ago) link

for a while I had told people that if you can't track down vintage mitsouko then hiram green's shangri-la is a good substitute, but it's been discontinued

like, I’m eating an elephant head (katherine), Monday, 22 June 2020 15:06 (one month ago) link

two weeks pass...

have been exploring the Oriza L. Legrand scents:

Vétiver Royal Bourbon is almost too much, very sweet and heavy

Chypre-Mousse is like the bottom of a pile of damp leaves. from what I’ve read it is very much loved. it is intriguing

Relique d’Amour is a dank crypt with lilys laid on top, very extreme. I hated it so much at first, it seemed really harsh, but it has grown on me

Reve d’Ossian is a bone dry incense scent, my favorite of all

Dan S, Tuesday, 7 July 2020 03:42 (four weeks ago) link

chypre mousse is one of the weirdest things i've ever worn -- can't say i really liked it but i'd try it again

clouds, Tuesday, 7 July 2020 18:49 (four weeks ago) link

weirdly desperate for perfume these days - like, i crave SCENT as a response to pandemic bullshit. but then the frustration of being unable to go into a shop and sniff vials, not without feeling unsafe. so: ordering various decants in the mail! and trying to appreciate the scents i can find in this sunscorched summer hellscape.

sean gramophone, Tuesday, 7 July 2020 19:04 (four weeks ago) link

I bought Clinique aromatics, will report back.

scampos mentis (gyac), Tuesday, 7 July 2020 19:35 (four weeks ago) link


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