noob questions

Okay, so, think I'm down to:

http://bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/sst.htm

vs.

http://www.sebikes.com/Singlespeed/700cLagerWhite.aspx

the later, from a local shop for $600.

I looked at the specs closely... these are almost exactly the same bike, right? Like, the brake configuration is the only difference I could find.

SE bikes don't get a lot of respect and are often considered POS. I don't know if that's a warranted reputation, but that's my perception. It's true though that Bikes Direct bikes often closely correspond to name brand bikes. The BD bikes are built in the same factory in Taiwan using the same tubing and same geometry as some brand name bike. While the frame maybe basically the same, the components might be different and vary somewhat in quality. The skill of the wrenching when putting the bike together can vary a lot too obviously.

Bikes Direct has a decent reputation and their bikes are a good deal, but like any budget enterprise, you assume a certain risk of hassle and problems. you don't get the security of having a shop backing up the product. Most people seem to have good experiences with them based on my reading of bike forums, but it's definitely a budget operation.

If you're willing to spend $600, there are other bikes to consider. Have you considered other options? If you are willing to go up to 700, then lots of possibilities open up.

How about an IRO?

http://www.irocycle.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=153

Also, I think the Fuji Track is the same frame as the SE Lager and is cheaper. It's a good option if you want to buy from a shop and be frugal.

You could also check out Surly Steamroller, Kona Paddy Wagon, and Raleigh Rush Hour. These are more expensive, but you might be able to find a deal on 09's. There are other possibilities too.

Well I shopped around to a lot of local shops, but the single speed options I found very lacking. I'm defitnitely open to any suggestions, my main requirements being a chromoly frame (or I suppose any material that'll keep it that light), bullhorn handlebars, front/back breaks, and a flip-flop hub.

I could go up to $700, but anything over $350 will mean I have to wait another pay cycle to get on a bike, and the weather is just so perfect right now.

Thanks for the advice, btw.

Okay how much time/learning curve is involved in buying parts and assembling w/ the help of a friendly co-op or somesuch? Because jesus christ between the brand loyalty and all the weird bike culture politics buying a complete for less than $1000 from an LBS seems extremely fraught. I've been to 11 shops and the only place I could actually find what I was looking for had a Steamroller that, after the bullhorn and the pedals, would be $810.

fwiw, learning to diy probably won't get you a bike more cheaply (such is the nature of completes), but actually learning the skills necessary to do so probably wouldn't take long. i took a course in chicago that had you dis- and reassemble your bike over the course of eight weeks, once a week. the actual instructive part of that, however, could be greatly compressed, esp if you're working one on one with a knowledgeable friend or something

i really wish i'd assembled my last bike, but the deal i got on the complete was so good that it seemed like i'd be able to customize as needed and still come in cheaply. of course, once i actually ~got~ the thing, and rode it, it has seemed indulgent to swap out serviceable parts w/o them wearing out or whatever. but that might just be a personal tic, you know

ok i got a bike! it's great, and my ass is killing me.

but i need to think maintenance. so a) what should be in an essential tool kit and b) what are the best ways to pick up the basic skills, recommended books? take a class?

Depends on how you prefer to learn, I reckon. There's all the info you'd need on the web - I just checked sheldonbrown.com to remind myself which way to turn the spring-tightening screw on v-brakes. I've never bought a book or taken a class, although I do have friends who are far bike geekier than I'll ever be, which is handy.

As for tools, the handy sized multi tools with a bunch of allen keys and screwdrivers are indispensable. And get a track pump.

goofe---i'm happy to help w/anything you need, as far as minor maintenance and stuff is concerned.

as for a tool kit: get something small enough to either keep attached to the bike (saddlebag) or that you don't mind carrying with you. i ~don't~ do this because my shit's in my messenger bag, but then i end up being that guy with the messenger bag and it's sort of embarrassing.

i'm guessing that, with the bike you've got, you'll need

a 15mm wrench for the bolts on your hubs (unless they're quick-release), this can also double as a pedal wrench
allen keys for seatpost, stem, saddle adjustments
*tire levers*
*tube(s)*
*some kind of small CO2 pump w/charges*
*one of those presta-->schraeder adapters, so you can fill up at the gas station if need be

really you just need stuff to get you home, which usually means a flat kit

it could also mean chain-breaker (cheap, small) and allen keys. i keep my stuff in one of these now: http://reloadbags.com/site_images/ACCESSORIES_protoolrolled400.jpg
http://reloadbags.com/site_images/ACCESSORIES_tn_protoolopened112.jpg

I'm a big fan of Sheldon Brown, the parktool.com site, and my Crank Brothers Multi 19 which has a ridiculous number of allen wrenches plus chain breaker and spoke wrenches and such and stays in my saddle bag. For routine maintenance at home I have a three-prong 4, 5, and 6mm Park allen wrench that I use constantly.

Buy or borrow other weird tools (crank pullers, pedal wrenches, headset wrenches, bottom bracket tools, etc.) as needed.

I noticed the other day that my fixie has allen key bolts on its hubs - is this normal? I haven't had to take one off yet but I am considering changing tyres. I also need to learn how to put the back wheel back on so the chain tension is still good :/

I just kind of... pull it tight, ya know? Not too tight though. Some guy I read says he gets the chain tight ignoring wheel centreing, tightens the right (drive side) nut, then centres and tightens the left nut.

I get a fair bit of chain noise on mine, dunno if this is due to the chain or cogs or my shitty tensioning technique.

think it has allen bolts because yr hubs are nice phil woods, right??

trick i use for putting the wheel back in w/appropriate tension:
-- bike upside down
-- if yr right-handed (as i am), position the bike so that the rear wheel is to the right, and the drivetrain is facing you
-- take yr left hand push the rear wheel as far back as the chain allows, bracing the butt of yr hand against the BB shell
-- you can do that off-center stuff, if you want, but i just center it.
-- tighten down the bolts equally on each side. best way is to alternate back and forth between bolts as you tighten. so, 1/4 turn rt, 1/4 turn left, so on

Brilliant - thanks gbx (yes, they are nice Phil Woods). The guy who built my bike got the spoke tension and chain position spot on - no noise at all, which will no doubt not be the case once I have to make adjustments.

i need to get better at getting my foot in the facking toe clip quickly when i go off a green light...

Anyone wanna recommend me a step by step on how to replace a broken pair of ye olde ten-speed stem-mounted friction shifters with another pair of the same? I hit my local bike shop for the gear just as they were closing (4:30 on a Saturday?) & was pretty much rushed out the door & now I've got this pair of shift levers & a burning desire for some DIY action (yeah, I'm the dude you heard about who replaced his own broken axle last week). This seems a bit more daunting, though, even though this time there probably won't be an unexpected cache of loose ball bearings to spill all over my bedroom floor.

And yes I've already extensively consulted the www, but to no avail. Lots of tips out there on how to upgrade, but not much advice on how to replace outdated technology with more of the same outdated technology. If you know of a hidden trove of such information, please hook a brother up.

happy cycling!

note to self: need to invest in a decent pair of tin-snips.

what i need right now is SHORTS KNOWLEDGE.

internet chatter suggests that pearl izumi and sugoi make good products at lower price-points. other brands are either disputed in quality, or obviously on a high-end tip.

since the chance of me wearing lycra out in the open air with people around is very low, there is also the liner short option. one i found that looks intersting is here: http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442626847&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302692435&bmUID=1248719495418

suggestions? tips?

I've been happy with my regular cheapo Pearl Izumu shorts. Plus you can just wear them under regular shorts and have the option of wearing them on their own.

Belt drive c/d

C I think. I'm not sure I can see a downside.

i agree pearl izumi is not offensive

Just yes or no for question one, and you can guess:

So I need a freewheel puller or some shit to take my back hub off? Because these wrenches aren't working.

Also, I changed the bearings out on my front wheel and it seems alright. Not as quiet as I'd like it to be while spinning, but better than before. I bought white lithium grease instead of that red grease, though, because Ace didn't have any. Is this grease going to break down faster? Maybe I'll change it out again in a few weeks.

And what do you use to break the old grease up? Some agent plus some kind of extra-bristly pipe cleaner?

Do you use special bearings or are regular one okay? I checked Shimano to see what size to buy, but I just wonder if I need some kind of high performance bearings.

And I'm not sure I even want to fuck with the central hub. Is it so complicated that I should let a bike shop do it? We have a very competitively-priced shop downtown, so maybe it'd be worth it.

Gosh, I was so ridiculous in the garage tonight. Definitely did not look like an old hand at bike repair. At one point when I couldn't find a hose I had my wheel in the shower with me with the massage setting on to get some gunk out of the hub. I tried to get all the tools I thought I'd need at Ace, but I didn't have my bases covered.

So, I tend to go through a lot of tubes & was wondering if it would be worthwhile to invest in tube which claim to be more durable (the Slime brand or others) or if I should just be resigned to having a repair kit on me when I go for rides. Here is the deal: I am a big dude (6.3 @ around 200 lbs. even when I am in great shape) & I ride a road bike. The terrain in my town is pretty rough (even the "bike lanes" & paved trails are riddled w/ cracks, holes & ledges at road/sidewalk intersections). Plus, I'm putting in an average of 15-20 miles a day. Most of my blown tubes are a result of general wear & tear, hitting patchy surfaces at high speeds & such, and not a result of punctures from debris. I end up having to replace about one tube a week. Could I save time/cash by going with "premium" tubes (the ones I get at my local shop are your average $4 basic tubes)?

Check your tyres and rim tape first.

Rim tape: make sure all of the spoke holes are covered, that there aren't any rucks or bumps, or any undue grit sticking to it.

Tyres: make sure there aren't any holes or splits the tube might be getting pinched by. Make sure you are running an appropriate pressure. Make sure your tube is the right size or the tyre size.

What size tyres are you running? it could be the tyres rather than the type of tube. when we first came to Pittsburgh E had 23s (admittedly very old ones) and they kept flatting on the potholed streets around here, we changed her up to some 32s (with kevlar lining ) and we haven't had a problem since.

I tend to think that there is something else going on if you are getting a lot of flats and having examined some dead tubes from this kind of environment a fair few of the holes would not have been fixed by slime. I do like slime although it can be a bit of a pain with presta valves sometimes.

Thanks Ed. I ride 27" rims @ 1.1/8" width tires. Here's the thing though: the only 27s they have at my local shop are 1.1/4" width. They told me it doesn't really make any difference, but maybe they are lying to me? If you are speaking of a different size issue than the general rim size/tire width, you will have to clarify b/c I am not that technically hip yet.

Pretty sure it's not the rims or the tape, though I'll double check. Since I bought the bike, I've replaced both rims & have had the same frequency of occurrence w/ all four.

At the very least, I'm going to look into ordering a stash of 27"x1.1/8" tubes b/c I don't know if I'll be able to find them around here.

1 1/8 and 1 1/4 will be very similar - they're not lying to you. The 1 1/4 will be slightly more comfortable on the bad surfaces.

Are you underinflating the tyres? They should have a min and max inflation on the sidewall. If you're underinflating you'll get a lot of [inch flats which sounds like what might be happening. As you're a bigger chap, make sure you inflate closer to the maximum. If you don't have a pump with a psi gauge, ask your local shop to do it for you and at least pinch the tyre afterwards so you have a ballpark idea of how firm it should be. If you don't already have a floor pump with a gauge, I'd strongly advise you get one.

It's very unlikely stronger tubes will make much of a difference, I don't think. If the problem isn't underinflation, then you could just have tyres that are easily pierced (even if it's not obvious this is what's happening). If so, it might be worth ordering some tyres online, if your local shop doesn't have them - there are plenty that focus on puncture protection, though most of these will be heavier and slower as a result.

The reason Ed suggests the rims or tape is because if you're not suffering pinch flats or puncture flats, then the only realistic third option is a jagged corner of a rim or spoke or valve hole. It is worth checking that your rim tape covers everything, and that your rims don't have any sharp or chipped areas. It's also very possible for a sharp to get inside the tyre and puncture from within, so clean both the inside of the rim and the inside of the tyre before putting the tube and tyre back on.

I am a big fan of these rather than replacing the tube every time.

http://www.parktool.com/images/products/productimages/det_GP-2v2_2005727_24456.jpg

Bam, re your hub questions, sorry I'm late but I have some thoughts. You should prob swap out the White Lightning and get some real grease -- I tried WL once b/c it was the only kind avail at my local hardware store, but it really doesn't have the body of bike grease, and you want a thick paste for the long haul.

To get the old stuff off, a lot of people use Simple Green, or there are other degreasers on the market. You can use WD40, I guess, but it's sneaky because it will kill and cut through old grease and just leave a light film of its own behind but it is NOT enough for things that move a lot, like hubs, or anything really. Prob don't use WD40 as a lubricant anywhere on your bike.

Frankly you can use a dishsoap solution and wash your parts in the sink if you get them really really rinsed afterward and pack them with good grease. Don't drop any bearings down the drain -- helps to do your scrubbing over a sheet pan or piece of tupperware in case you drop anything.

Someone -- Hunter? -- around here likes WL, if I recall. But it seems like not an awesome idea to me.

Pedro's do this great degreaser call orang peelz which seems to be more effective than anything else I have tried. Using WD-40 almost like spray air is pretty effective too.

It's a legit grease with a thick, generous helping of petroleum jelly, just not the usual compound for a hub. It's a grease used for bearings (boats and lawnmowers and things like that). I got some 3-in-1 lube for my chain that's about as viscous as White Lighting. After I did my front wheel, I discovered that my brother has bike grease in a drawer in his garage, which remains unexplained to me since he rarely rides his bike and probably would not fiddle with anything requiring it.

So . . . I have a quick release for the back hub and I stripped the plastic part from the nut and can't tighten it or get it off my axle. I may need a new axle, I dunno, but I definitely need a new nut (and whatever that Shimano part is called to get the back hub off. My records show that it's a freewheel adapter or puller or something).

Thanks for the tips about Simple Green and such! I may end up buying that freewheel adapter and doing the rear hub like I did the front, but I want the crank sqeaky clean now, too, because I have envy of all the speedy road bikers and fixie dudes riding around campus now that school's about to start. This ultimately may force me to pay for labor at a bike store.

(I had to ride the ugliest, heaviest beheamoth of a backup bike to get to school today.)

There are more special tools req'd for getting the bottom bracket apart but maybe on new bikes that's easier. I can't remember, I haven't done any work in a long time. You prob still need a crank-puller at the very least.

Re lube, okay! The WL that I bought once was too thin, and came in a tube. It said it was for stuff like bearings but it was way thinner than the colored paste from the bike shop and I didn't trust it.

I did that once to a quick-release hub. I'd never had one until I inherited a used bike with them, then got a flat, then tried to deal w it on the side of the road and ended up fucking it up. Got rid of the bike soon after, so no idea what the fix was.

xpost to Ed & Mark C: Thanks again for the input. I bought new rims recently & upon investigation, it seems my tires were riding a little closer to the new rims, resulting in some abrasion on the front tire from my brake pad, which must have eventually worn a hole through the tire, so there you go. Replaced tire today & adjusted front brake, so hopefully I will be good to go for the time being (but I ordered a frame pack & a road pump today for whatever complications inevitably lie ahead).

I have an early '70s Peugeot UO-8 (w/ mostly upgraded components), and for some reason, the fixed cup keeps coming loose. I took off the crank and tightened it flush so that it wouldn't turn anymore, but after only 16 miles, it's abt. a half-centimeter out. Other than Loctite, is there a better solution?

i'd like to pimp El Duke Degreaser: made in Chicago, all-organic/biodegradeable, really effective

Was going to post for the first time yesterday on the 'daily bicycle log' thread, wondering how comes people seemed to get so many punctures - I've had my Gary Fisher for eight years now, cycling all over London, and never had one. You can guess what happened this morning then...

Anyway, I'm looking to move on from my battered mountain bike and get something a little lighter. My cousin-in-law gets an amazing deal on Merida bikes (http://www2.merida-bikes.com/en_INT/Bikes.Overview) so I'm going to get something from them. Like I said, I need something lighter (after borrowing a friend's road bike I can't believe what I've been lugging around all these years) but I take the canal path most days and I need something that'll handle broken paving stones, occasional grassy/muddy patches and the odd kerb or two. He's recommending a Cyclo-Cross bike. Any one tried them? In general or Merida specifically? Am I going to end up with punctures/buckled wheels?

A CX bike sounds like a great idea. In an ideal world you'd have either slick tyres or, better still, lighter wheels shod in slick tyres that you could put on when doing longer road rides, while keeping the wider knobblier ones for the towpath.

Merida are fine bikes - they're one of the biggest frame manufacturers in the world - them and Giant, I think? - but they mostly make the frames for other brands. The bikes are solid, well priced and well specced.

Some CX bikes come with rack and mudguard mounts and some don't, so make sure if you do want the option, you make sure they do (there are bodges so it's not the end of the world if not, though).

Here's a 2008 review of a Merida crosser.

I guess while I'm noobying - whither toeclips? Never used them before but the the Merida bikes let you choose the pedals. So do I want straps? Those things that clip into special shoes? Remember I'm a central London rider so it's rare I go more than 100 yards without having to stop.

I have clipless pedals (Crank Bros Eggbeaters) on my roadie and toeclips on my fixie. The only benefit of the latter is that you can wear normal shoes with them (though I've found some shapes of shoes don't really work - and smart shoes would quickly get scuffed I expect).

Clipless pedals - where the shoe attaches in some way via a cleat - are much more efficient and secure than basic flat pedals, with MTB clipless being best suited to commuting use as the shoes all come with recessed cleats so you can walk in them with no problem.

The reason I use Eggbeaters is because they look cool, they're light, they fit MTB shoes, and most importantly, they have a 4-way clip-in mechanism, unlike other systems which either have one-sided or two-sided - so you're always flipping pedals. With the Eggbeaters, you simply press down on the pedal and no matter what orientation it is, you always clip in.

http://www.mtbbritain.co.uk/images/eggbeaters_pedals.jpg

plus you can clip in backwards, great if you miss it the first time.

if you don't mind shelling out on another pair of shoes then clipless pedals are a+++ classic (apart from the stupid name). you can also get dual sided pedals (clip on one side, normal on t'other) if you think you might want to ride in normal shoes sometimes.

I'm a big fan of toeclips, but I've never used clipless. Also I'm sort of a lazy mid-level cyclist with no impulse to be especially modern, fast, or tricksy, so you probably want to listen to the boys more than to me.

But it's nice to be able to switch the pressure off the balls of your feet and pull up, I think. My toes frequently go numb on my platform pedals that don't have clips.

Also I'm cheap, and I've had one bike stolen and one bike vandalized so badly it had to be trashed, so I'm not big on sinking money into any more of 'em.

on no evidence i have the intuitive feeling that clipless pedals might make your bike slightly less theft-prone cos the thief will not want to ride off on it. maybe that's naive.

gbx does have a story of leaving his bike unlocked in the front yard and it being gone the next day...but calling around and finding it had been dropped off at or near a local bikeshop and left for "dead", presumably b/c the thief was unable to ride a fixie with eggbeaters. Not as much fun as you thought, hmm?

I, er, just told the story for him. Sorry.