noob questions

interestingly enough, the one that fitted me was a medium.. (it's slightly snug but thought it's better to have that than one that's loose???)

save-a-fred

allows you aggressive riding while you feel absolutely safe

Yeah, you may feel absolutely safe, but you aren't.

I don't get the appeal of the BMX helmets. Aren't they substantially hotter? IMHO they look really clunky and awkward.

i agree

they are substantially hotter yes, i guess that's the appeal?

Why did my brand new inner tube burst on inflating, before I reached the recommended 100psi? Thought it might be a pinch flat but it happened right on the inside seam. Just bad luck?

could still be a pinch flat, but check your rim to see if there's any tube killing nasties jutting out, and rim tape and make sure that it's properly set (and replace if worn). i've managed to avoid pinch flats by installing tires having the tubes inflated to about 20psi. a couple people i know also pump the tire up about half way, then deflate, then inflate fully. something about stretching out the tube.

[inspects mental image of wheels] huh I don't think they have any rim tape. That'll be it then.

Is there some kind of machine that will fit inner tubes? Fuck is it difficult and annoying.

are you inflating the tube a bit (then close the nozzle) to fit it on the wheel? then deflate it once it's seated on the rim to get the tire mounted

you mean don't mount the tyre at all before the tube's on? i half mount tire (one rim i mean) then part inflate tube then fit under tire then fit other tyre rim. no deflating. mainly what i did wrong last time was not religously fit it round from the nozzle and i ended up with a bit of tube stickign out, like the whole thing was too long. worked better the second time around. seating the last few inches of the tyre is still a bitch though.

ow my thumbs

no, sounds like you are doing it right.

did you deflate tire when trying to seat? some brands of tire are harder to mount than others. michelin pro 3s for example.

didn't deflate. have now, definitely easier!

you are one step close to no longer being a noob!

one step along the endless road!

I have never been a cycling enthusiast prior to the past few months (save for a summer of downhill mountain biking in Colorado in '96), but am rapidly becoming one, first our of necessity (car went kaput; could stand to lose some weight), but now stemming primarily from a newfound love of road bikes/road bike riding. Srsly, where have skinny tires been all my life?

My first road bike (I'm already dreaming of/making plans for the second), purchased last month, is a pristinely maintained 1976 Flandria racing bike, which has been modified somewhat for more general use. It flies & I love it! I've decided to take it on a several-leg trip in southern Michigan, which I am currently training for by taking progressively longer day trips.

Also, I am gearing up on accessories, which brings me to posit a query: I bought a near-mint 1980s Bell V-1 Pro helmet (with red & blue racing stripes!) at a garage sale recently. The plastic and foam appear to be completely unscathed/untested, but I was wondering if it is wise to entrust my safety to such an old piece of equipment. I love to rock the vintage (nice fit with the bike, too), but if foam degrades over time, or some such thing, perhaps I should keep it for style-exclusive use & keep shopping for something more recent for daily use?

Nice to join you over here ate ILTRMB.

welcome. a vintage bell v-1 pro should be fine since "foam" is actually concrete

(i dunno if safe or not)

i wouldn't

(and welcome!)

We all hope to never actually use our helmets, but if I did need its services, I certainly wouldn't want it to be 25 years old.

Also, the general recommendation is to go and try on a few helmets to find one that fits well and feels comfortable. Heads and helmets both come in a variety of sizes and shapes.

So, I vote no on the used helmet. Helmets now are much better than their forefathers anyways. Lighter, better ventilated, better fitting. I'm all for retro, but helmets seem like a good place to draw the line.

Welcome!

fave bell v1 feature: microscopic sliding ventilation port

this is a rather rough snarky welcome coming from me but WE ARE TRYING TO SAVE YOUR LIFE :)

Looking some more at singlespeeds, and one of the local bike shops had a brand new SE 700c Lager for $600 (no sales tax) that fits well, has all the little things I like, and seems, at least, as light and carry-up-my-stairs-able as I'm going to get in this price range. However, if I go with it, I'm going to have to wait a few weeks until I can afford it. They had the next step down, (forget what it was called) for $300, which I could get pretty soon (soooo nice out) but it seemed a tad too heavy, and not exactly a good long term investment.

Should I wait for the lighter, likely longer lasting bike? And also, are either even a good bike at all, and am I beeing hoodwinked by the salesman's beardo charms?

I've heard VERY VERY bad things about those SE Drafts. The wheels that come with them are apparently terrible. The higher level bikes from them (like that Lager) are supposedly good though.

Okay, so, think I'm down to:

http://bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/sst.htm

vs.

http://www.sebikes.com/Singlespeed/700cLagerWhite.aspx

the later, from a local shop for $600.

I looked at the specs closely... these are almost exactly the same bike, right? Like, the brake configuration is the only difference I could find.

SE bikes don't get a lot of respect and are often considered POS. I don't know if that's a warranted reputation, but that's my perception. It's true though that Bikes Direct bikes often closely correspond to name brand bikes. The BD bikes are built in the same factory in Taiwan using the same tubing and same geometry as some brand name bike. While the frame maybe basically the same, the components might be different and vary somewhat in quality. The skill of the wrenching when putting the bike together can vary a lot too obviously.

Bikes Direct has a decent reputation and their bikes are a good deal, but like any budget enterprise, you assume a certain risk of hassle and problems. you don't get the security of having a shop backing up the product. Most people seem to have good experiences with them based on my reading of bike forums, but it's definitely a budget operation.

If you're willing to spend $600, there are other bikes to consider. Have you considered other options? If you are willing to go up to 700, then lots of possibilities open up.

How about an IRO?

http://www.irocycle.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=153

Also, I think the Fuji Track is the same frame as the SE Lager and is cheaper. It's a good option if you want to buy from a shop and be frugal.

You could also check out Surly Steamroller, Kona Paddy Wagon, and Raleigh Rush Hour. These are more expensive, but you might be able to find a deal on 09's. There are other possibilities too.

Well I shopped around to a lot of local shops, but the single speed options I found very lacking. I'm defitnitely open to any suggestions, my main requirements being a chromoly frame (or I suppose any material that'll keep it that light), bullhorn handlebars, front/back breaks, and a flip-flop hub.

I could go up to $700, but anything over $350 will mean I have to wait another pay cycle to get on a bike, and the weather is just so perfect right now.

Thanks for the advice, btw.

Okay how much time/learning curve is involved in buying parts and assembling w/ the help of a friendly co-op or somesuch? Because jesus christ between the brand loyalty and all the weird bike culture politics buying a complete for less than $1000 from an LBS seems extremely fraught. I've been to 11 shops and the only place I could actually find what I was looking for had a Steamroller that, after the bullhorn and the pedals, would be $810.

fwiw, learning to diy probably won't get you a bike more cheaply (such is the nature of completes), but actually learning the skills necessary to do so probably wouldn't take long. i took a course in chicago that had you dis- and reassemble your bike over the course of eight weeks, once a week. the actual instructive part of that, however, could be greatly compressed, esp if you're working one on one with a knowledgeable friend or something

i really wish i'd assembled my last bike, but the deal i got on the complete was so good that it seemed like i'd be able to customize as needed and still come in cheaply. of course, once i actually ~got~ the thing, and rode it, it has seemed indulgent to swap out serviceable parts w/o them wearing out or whatever. but that might just be a personal tic, you know

ok i got a bike! it's great, and my ass is killing me.

but i need to think maintenance. so a) what should be in an essential tool kit and b) what are the best ways to pick up the basic skills, recommended books? take a class?

Depends on how you prefer to learn, I reckon. There's all the info you'd need on the web - I just checked sheldonbrown.com to remind myself which way to turn the spring-tightening screw on v-brakes. I've never bought a book or taken a class, although I do have friends who are far bike geekier than I'll ever be, which is handy.

As for tools, the handy sized multi tools with a bunch of allen keys and screwdrivers are indispensable. And get a track pump.

goofe---i'm happy to help w/anything you need, as far as minor maintenance and stuff is concerned.

as for a tool kit: get something small enough to either keep attached to the bike (saddlebag) or that you don't mind carrying with you. i ~don't~ do this because my shit's in my messenger bag, but then i end up being that guy with the messenger bag and it's sort of embarrassing.

i'm guessing that, with the bike you've got, you'll need

a 15mm wrench for the bolts on your hubs (unless they're quick-release), this can also double as a pedal wrench
allen keys for seatpost, stem, saddle adjustments
*tire levers*
*tube(s)*
*some kind of small CO2 pump w/charges*
*one of those presta-->schraeder adapters, so you can fill up at the gas station if need be

really you just need stuff to get you home, which usually means a flat kit

it could also mean chain-breaker (cheap, small) and allen keys. i keep my stuff in one of these now: http://reloadbags.com/site_images/ACCESSORIES_protoolrolled400.jpg
http://reloadbags.com/site_images/ACCESSORIES_tn_protoolopened112.jpg

I'm a big fan of Sheldon Brown, the parktool.com site, and my Crank Brothers Multi 19 which has a ridiculous number of allen wrenches plus chain breaker and spoke wrenches and such and stays in my saddle bag. For routine maintenance at home I have a three-prong 4, 5, and 6mm Park allen wrench that I use constantly.

Buy or borrow other weird tools (crank pullers, pedal wrenches, headset wrenches, bottom bracket tools, etc.) as needed.

I noticed the other day that my fixie has allen key bolts on its hubs - is this normal? I haven't had to take one off yet but I am considering changing tyres. I also need to learn how to put the back wheel back on so the chain tension is still good :/

I just kind of... pull it tight, ya know? Not too tight though. Some guy I read says he gets the chain tight ignoring wheel centreing, tightens the right (drive side) nut, then centres and tightens the left nut.

I get a fair bit of chain noise on mine, dunno if this is due to the chain or cogs or my shitty tensioning technique.

think it has allen bolts because yr hubs are nice phil woods, right??

trick i use for putting the wheel back in w/appropriate tension:
-- bike upside down
-- if yr right-handed (as i am), position the bike so that the rear wheel is to the right, and the drivetrain is facing you
-- take yr left hand push the rear wheel as far back as the chain allows, bracing the butt of yr hand against the BB shell
-- you can do that off-center stuff, if you want, but i just center it.
-- tighten down the bolts equally on each side. best way is to alternate back and forth between bolts as you tighten. so, 1/4 turn rt, 1/4 turn left, so on

Brilliant - thanks gbx (yes, they are nice Phil Woods). The guy who built my bike got the spoke tension and chain position spot on - no noise at all, which will no doubt not be the case once I have to make adjustments.

i need to get better at getting my foot in the facking toe clip quickly when i go off a green light...

Anyone wanna recommend me a step by step on how to replace a broken pair of ye olde ten-speed stem-mounted friction shifters with another pair of the same? I hit my local bike shop for the gear just as they were closing (4:30 on a Saturday?) & was pretty much rushed out the door & now I've got this pair of shift levers & a burning desire for some DIY action (yeah, I'm the dude you heard about who replaced his own broken axle last week). This seems a bit more daunting, though, even though this time there probably won't be an unexpected cache of loose ball bearings to spill all over my bedroom floor.

And yes I've already extensively consulted the www, but to no avail. Lots of tips out there on how to upgrade, but not much advice on how to replace outdated technology with more of the same outdated technology. If you know of a hidden trove of such information, please hook a brother up.

happy cycling!

note to self: need to invest in a decent pair of tin-snips.

what i need right now is SHORTS KNOWLEDGE.

internet chatter suggests that pearl izumi and sugoi make good products at lower price-points. other brands are either disputed in quality, or obviously on a high-end tip.

since the chance of me wearing lycra out in the open air with people around is very low, there is also the liner short option. one i found that looks intersting is here: http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442626847&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302692435&bmUID=1248719495418

suggestions? tips?

I've been happy with my regular cheapo Pearl Izumu shorts. Plus you can just wear them under regular shorts and have the option of wearing them on their own.

Belt drive c/d

C I think. I'm not sure I can see a downside.

i agree pearl izumi is not offensive