ILX Sewing!

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Aw, molly -- haha.

Sewing is really just lots of direction-following + a working ability to think in 3-D. Ie, remember which armhole is the left one even when yr shirt is inside-out, see in your head how things are going together before you sew them. That is sometimes hard, I have definitely sewn the wrong things together based on inside-out-ness or similar confusion. And my mother once made a set of lace curtains with one somehow six inches shorter than the other, and she's been sewing all her life! Concentration is key.

Laurel (Laurel), Thursday, 28 September 2006 13:54 (seventeen years ago) link

I can't seem to find where I put my digital camera! But as soon as I do, you can all be inspired and given confidence by crash and burn attempt at sewing a shirt that fits HORRIBLY.

I have a purse pattern! I may be asking for y'alls' help. Interfacing is involved. I am frightened.

Thanks, Laurel! I think I just need more practice. Reading patterns confusing, esp. when you have no clue what they're talking about. I did have to run to the computer several times last night to figure out certain mystifying phrases such "basting." Do you usually do that by hand or just use a big stitch? I used a long stitch on my machine which is the same one I used to gather fabric. Perhaps that's why my shirt looks like crap.


molly d (mollyd), Thursday, 28 September 2006 14:02 (seventeen years ago) link

Also key: READ THE DIRECTIONS ALL THE WAY THROUGH BEFORE CUTTING ANYTHING. Like, read them and look at the diagrams and imagine doing it, so you walk yrself through the whole process. Helps to see where particular details might be important later on, and what you can fudge. Measure twice, cut once -- all those woodworking proverbs apply.

Haha, XP!

Laurel (Laurel), Thursday, 28 September 2006 14:05 (seventeen years ago) link

Basting I usually do by hand because I have more control over how things are positioned when I handsew; ie if things have to be on a curve you can lay them over the corner of the ironing board or a tailor's ham or whatever, and find the best way to match up seams without being limited to a flat surface. Especially useful if making anything with princess seaming, which is ALL CURVES. Grrr.

Exception: I use a long machine stitch if basting is to stabilize a curved edge, ie the edge of a neckline or the top of a skirt. That kind of basting is used wherever fabric has to hang on the bias, to keep the fibers from getting pulled out of square while you work on the pieces (too much handling can be hard on the grain).

Molly, do you have the pattern number for yr shirt? Am curious.

Laurel (Laurel), Thursday, 28 September 2006 14:10 (seventeen years ago) link

I can't remember the exact pattern name or number(the package was green) because I have taken Zyrtec and my brain is fuzzy. However, the shirt looks something like this, but not with those ginormous sleeves:

http://www.1sewingpatterns.com/images0/4700bsim.jpg

They're about 3/4 length sleeves instead.

molly d (mollyd), Thursday, 28 September 2006 14:31 (seventeen years ago) link

oy vey!

http://static.flickr.com/95/258172320_4f47355504.jpg?v=0

i will never wear it. it fits poorly and is a bit too hippy dippy. oh, and i did a really bad job too.

my sewing class was great! i even bought a new foot for my machine, so now i can do piping, sewing over pearls, and gathering very easily!

molly d (mollyd), Monday, 2 October 2006 03:16 (seventeen years ago) link

shit! wrong picture. that was for the knitting thread.

http://static.flickr.com/117/258172322_f0016e6a7d.jpg?v=0

molly d (mollyd), Monday, 2 October 2006 03:18 (seventeen years ago) link

i think it looks cute, you should wear it!

can i have the handbag please? ;-)

Nathalie (stevie nixed), Monday, 2 October 2006 04:53 (seventeen years ago) link

My mom just sent me a "don't give up!" email about my shirt. I think I will take the collar and bottom off and try to re-do it, as I know have a foot to do gathering like a pro!

molly d (mollyd), Monday, 2 October 2006 15:35 (seventeen years ago) link

Those gathering feet are a WONDER; I have an old mechanical one for my Kenmore, too. But sometimes you want to hand-ruche for a slightly uneven crumpledy mess. I don't know, the shirt doesn't look that bad from here! Guess I'd have to see how it fit.

Laurel (Laurel), Monday, 2 October 2006 15:38 (seventeen years ago) link

Oh, believe me, it fits badly! But thank you anyway!

I love that foot! I decided to make a fancy pillow Saturday afternoon with gathering AND piping, abut quickly realized this cannot be done when you've already sewn piping on to the piece. Oh well.

molly d (mollyd), Monday, 2 October 2006 15:43 (seventeen years ago) link

Hahaha, no. And FYI, the worst thing about ruffling is having to cut really long, perfectly parallel bias strips to start with. In fact, I hate all bias strips. This might just be a comment on my shitty cutting skillz.

Laurel (Laurel), Monday, 2 October 2006 15:46 (seventeen years ago) link

I bought this pattern this weekend:

http://www.simplicity.com/assets/4236/4236.jpg

and some plain, solid fabric. I'm thinking skirt should be easy for first try? It calls for twill tape on the back. What is that?

Sam: Screwed and Chopped (Molly Jones), Monday, 2 October 2006 15:50 (seventeen years ago) link

I'm not so great with the cutting either. I think I need to concentrate more. One of the sewing instructors showed us a pillow she's made of pretty gathered silk. I thought, "I could do that!" I was sadly mistaken, as a bunch of my Saturday was spent screaming "Goddammit! Why the fuck won't you gather!?"

Piping is fun, though! I'll have a pretty boring pillow when I'm finished!

My sewing class is pretty awesome. It's full of a bunch of old Southern ladies, who are all really sweet. It's out in Madison, TN, which is a suburb outside of Nashville. I sat across from a lady wearing a red "Camp Fallujah Iraq" baseball hat. She kept getting confused, poor thing.

molly d (mollyd), Monday, 2 October 2006 15:54 (seventeen years ago) link

do you bring your own machine to class?

Sam: Screwed and Chopped (Molly Jones), Monday, 2 October 2006 15:55 (seventeen years ago) link

I like that skirt, Miz! It looks very useful and almost univerally flattering.

Twill tape is a flat, ribbon-like tape in a kind of herringbone weave. I think it's mostly used for strengthening pressure points? I've never used it. What does the pattern say to do with it?

http://www.ribbonsgalore.com.au/shop/images/RIB.15.TWI.BLU.jpg

Oh god, last time I tried anything with silk it was QUEL DISASTER! Right now I need three yards of wine-red baby-wale corduroy but I'm too lazy/disorganized to get over to the fashion district and buy it.

Laurel (Laurel), Monday, 2 October 2006 15:55 (seventeen years ago) link

Sam! I'll try my skirt pattern this weekend too! We can be confused together! My pattern is pretty similar to that, I think.

Yeah, we bring our own sewing machines to class. Everybody had really fancy ones with computers and such. I felt like I had a Kia, and everyone else had Mercedes, but then when they were all getting confused on the programming, my inferiority complex was lifted.

Ooh! Laurel! What are you making with that corduroy? I am a total sucker for that color in cordoroy.

molly d (mollyd), Monday, 2 October 2006 16:00 (seventeen years ago) link

I want to use it for an A-line skirt with patch pockets and a self-belt. If I'm feeling supah competent, it would be good to position the wale in a chevron from the center-front seam, but we'll just see about that....

Laurel (Laurel), Monday, 2 October 2006 16:03 (seventeen years ago) link

I'm not sure what the twill tape is for, have't read through all of the pattern, just saw it on the back.

I"m still trying to knit up xmas stuff, why aren't there more hours in the day??

Sam: Screwed and Chopped (Molly Jones), Monday, 2 October 2006 16:06 (seventeen years ago) link

Laurel! That'll be so nice!

Sam, I still have to finish the plastic bag knit purse for my sister's birthday... which was last month. Way to go, pokey! I made one i-cord already, but I've been sewing too much to actually want to sit down and knit.

I have too many hobbies. Oh well.

molly d (mollyd), Monday, 2 October 2006 16:11 (seventeen years ago) link

Jesus H. So, I started my skirt. Did I cut with the fabric fold in mind? No. So, I sewed the pieces together, making a lovely Frankenskirt that is guaranteed not to fit. Oh well. I'll use it for practice. It was sale fabric anyway.

molly d (mollyd), Sunday, 8 October 2006 01:09 (seventeen years ago) link

oh dear. . .I have not tried my pattern yet. I'm still struggling with socks. argh.

Sam: Screwed and Chopped (Molly Jones), Monday, 9 October 2006 12:28 (seventeen years ago) link

I still say a racing stripe is the answer, Molly. Where's the zipper: center back, or side seam?

Laurel (Laurel), Monday, 9 October 2006 12:36 (seventeen years ago) link

You know, now that I am looking at my botched mess, I think racing stripes could be fun. It's just a dark grey fabric. I could do black, or red... Red may make me look like a painted whore (no, not really). Black is probably the way to go.

The zipper is in the center back.

Here's the pattern:

http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B4710=x&TI='B4710'&page=1

I don't intend on putting ribbon on it. I just want to make a sensible, easy skirt.

molly d (mollyd), Monday, 9 October 2006 13:03 (seventeen years ago) link

Hm, okay. I was thinking of an embellishment for the center back, but not with the zipper there. Yeah, I'd be tempted to put a stripe up the center front! If you're feeling very fashionably ambitious, you could cut a bias strip of your grey skirt fabric and overlay it with a lace or gauze panel...and hem the bias strip to some length shorter than the skirt hem so there'd be a built-in tease. But that's just me, I can over-complicate ANYTHING.

Laurel (Laurel), Monday, 9 October 2006 13:15 (seventeen years ago) link

I like the idea with lace or gauze panel! That would be really nice, actually. I like it! As for the shorter bias strip, well, I would probably botch it up. But, I really am taking to this idea. A lace panel on the front would be really cute!

Oh! There's a seemingly simple vintage apron pattern in BUST, which involves using an old sheet.

I would just to make something that I don't fuck up, so I can feel accomplished.

molly d (mollyd), Monday, 9 October 2006 13:26 (seventeen years ago) link

You'll need the self-fabric back panel because lace won't hold up to the tension that'll be put on it by normal wear (walking, sitting, pulling), and I have a feeling a bias-cut strip will hang and move better between the two straight-grain pieces. Anyway, maybe get a 2- or 3-inch wide lace (or get two and baste them together for a wider panel) and run it down the front, narrow at the top, then widening at roughly the same angle as the A-line of your skirt.

Laurel (Laurel), Monday, 9 October 2006 13:46 (seventeen years ago) link

Laurel! You might be saving my skirt! Thank you! So, by backing, you mean the bias-cut fabric? Or is this something else entirely?

I have a gift certificate to this nice fabric store near my house. Any suggestions as to what I should buy that's essential for sewing? I did get a cardboard cutting board, and I already have pins, magnetic pin holder, measuring tape, and a pair of okay cutting scissors.

molly d (mollyd), Monday, 9 October 2006 14:30 (seventeen years ago) link

Yes, by "backing" I meant the bias-cut skirt fabric. For all I know there should be interfacing involved but I find interfacing confusing and finicky and I try to avoid it. Partly this is because in NYC all the interfacing is sold on big bolts like fabric, so it doesn't come with any instructions...and I can never remember if it's fusible and if so, what temperature to iron at, or not fusible, or water-soluble or etc etc. And partly because the last time I used fusible interfacing it bubbled and puckered when I tried to shape it later on, and the handbag didn't turn out very well.

Other sewing tools that I use all the time:

* seam ripper
* small thread snips (like scissors but without the finger holes so they're a little bit easier to pick up in a hurry; I use them for all my hand mending and for cutting free after sewing machine seams)
* small tailor's ham for pressing seams and anything curved
* a packet of good handsewing needles (called "sharps")
* tailor's chalk for removeable marking on the right sides of things (good for marking those pesky dart points and etc that have to be transferred from the patterns; maybe get one light colored chalk and one dark one; rub marks out with a damp rag when you're done)
* a basic thimble, nothing fancy (you'll want it when you're handsewing through lots of layers or anything denim or whatev)
* a good metal yardstick for marking and cutting bias strips or any straight lines.
* sewing gauge (like a a 6-inch ruler but with a little sliding marker, VERY useful for maintaining equidistant seam allowances, hems, buttonholes)

That might seem like a lot but each item should only be a dollar or two (tho the ham could be more). I have a bunch of other stuff, a bamboo point turner and little gadgets for folding bias tapes and chalk tracing paper, plus I think some of my stuff would turn out better if I learned to use a dressmaker's/French curve, but I think you could get by for a long time (forever?) with just what you have plus my list.

Laurel (Laurel), Monday, 9 October 2006 14:55 (seventeen years ago) link

Thank you so much! I do have a seam ripper and my mom hooked me up with a sewing guage when she was down here. My mom got me a fabric marker, but it's blue and you can't see a damn thing on dark fabric. Chalk is probably the way to go. I'm going to print the list off and take it to the store.

Here's where I have the gift certificate:

http://www.textilefabricstore.com/

Sadly, the "This I Believe" bit on NPR this morning was all about how failure is a good thing. I thought of my sewing endeavors.

I really do have to make sure to study the pattern before I do anything. I am like an excitable little kid who wants to bust right into it.

molly d (mollyd), Monday, 9 October 2006 15:08 (seventeen years ago) link

Oh, I hate the cutting/alterations stage of things. It's boring and fraught with uncertainty because that's where the meat of the work is...actually sewing things together is much faster and produces visible results, but if I haven't altered correctly, the final product is WORTHLESS, BAH.

Laurel (Laurel), Monday, 9 October 2006 15:12 (seventeen years ago) link

Oh, one more thing: are you pressing seams as you go along?? For steaming things v sharply and for keeping the hot iron off my nice fabric, I use an old, smoothly woven dish towel as a press cloth: soak it in water, wring out, press with it on top of yr seams until it's dry. BUT it's a bit thick and once you put it over your garment, you can't see what you're ironing anymore. I know you can buy purposed press cloths that are thinner/less opaque -- some very delicate ones are made of silicon, I think? Or something hi-tech-y? It's a thought. I might break down and buy one, one of these days.

Laurel (Laurel), Monday, 9 October 2006 16:12 (seventeen years ago) link

No... I haven't pressed any seams. I did press the fabric before the infamous September Shirt Debacle. This is similar to the blocking method in knitting, which I've had mucho experience with.

I'm really hard at work today. I just found this website:

http://www.fitzpatterns.com/index.html

Free skirt patterns! That wrap skirt is pretty cute. I could do that. I'm really tempted to just leave work early today, as I'm completely unproductive, and have a desire to go fabric and notions shopping instead. There's a top in there too that looks fairly easy.

Oh, and I'll give the excuse for leaving early that the new cat needs attention, as last night she decided to curl up on youknowwho, and then pee all over his shirt. Hah! (I shouldn't be laughing, but I can't help it).

molly d (mollyd), Monday, 9 October 2006 16:19 (seventeen years ago) link

I am happy to report that I am currently working on a stupidly easy apron and it is turning out perfectly! I bought this ridiculous Dennis the Menace fabric for a dollar and it is not letting me down. I have attached pockets, sewn hems, and it's looking pretty, pretty good.

Oh, and I went to the fabric store yesterday and became overwhelmed which led to my purchase-less departure. I overheard a woman discussing how she has sewn some of Dolly Parton's clothes (she was looking at the fake fur section), and I decided I need to come back when I'm feeling a bit more confident. How sad! Attack of low sewing-self esteem!

molly d (mollyd), Tuesday, 10 October 2006 14:39 (seventeen years ago) link

Holy shiiiiiiit, those patterns!

Laurel (Laurel), Tuesday, 10 October 2006 14:43 (seventeen years ago) link

Okay, I take that back, I thought there would be more of them...and that fewer of them would be for unhemmed jersey shift dresses with miniskirts. I might try the hoodie, though.

Laurel (Laurel), Tuesday, 10 October 2006 14:46 (seventeen years ago) link

I would love to be able to make my own jeans

. . .and a soda on the side (Molly Jones), Tuesday, 10 October 2006 14:48 (seventeen years ago) link

I also realized printing those patterns would be a bitch. Kinkos? That involves extra effort. No thank you.

That wrap skirt though... I may be coming into a stash of old cordoroy, so perhaps I will attempt that.

I feel much better after having created something successfully. I was Suzie Downer for a while (also fueled by raging, emotional PMS, which made me sob at random TV shows, including, but not limited to: Extreme Makeover : Home Edition"),

molly d (mollyd), Tuesday, 10 October 2006 14:53 (seventeen years ago) link

I dunno, I love wrap skirts but I think that one is awkwardly long. Of course you could shorten it but...it doesn't seem to hang right for its width/length. Hard to tell from those few pictures...I'm sure the extra ease makes it better for biking in, sitting on the ground in, etc...but it looks worse when standing. Hmmph. There's got to be a way to hide the extra in some side pleats or something....

I have a very, very good wrap pattern that's easy and I've made it twice and you could embellish or add pockets or change the closure to anything you wanted (it's supposed to be long skinny ties but I've also made it with a D-ring buckle).

Laurel (Laurel), Tuesday, 10 October 2006 15:01 (seventeen years ago) link

Hmm, now I can't find the pattern online. Will look at home.

Laurel (Laurel), Tuesday, 10 October 2006 15:11 (seventeen years ago) link

Extreme Makeover : Home Edition

the show is scientifically engineered to make you cry. it's evil really.

. . .and a soda on the side (Molly Jones), Tuesday, 10 October 2006 15:11 (seventeen years ago) link

See, I'm 5'10, so long doesn't bother me so much. Honestly, wrap skirts don't really "do it" for me, but it looks easy, and I probably could make it without dire consequences.

Oh! And you're totally right, Laurel: pressing seams makes a world of difference. I felt competent yesterday while making my sad little apron!

Sidenote: everyone of my family members is getting an apron for Xmas.

molly d (mollyd), Tuesday, 10 October 2006 15:18 (seventeen years ago) link

UM YES, pretty much everything will look like SHIT unless you press as you go!! Esp darts. This is why you need a mini-tailor's ham.

Laurel (Laurel), Tuesday, 10 October 2006 15:19 (seventeen years ago) link

I saw one for 8 bucks yesterday at the fancy fabric shop. I don't know why I didn't buy it. I was emotional. They had a bunch, so I'll go back. It looks like a giant shoulder pad, no? They had another that looked like it was for sleeves, and this one (which I assume was the tailor's ham) that looked like it was used for shoulders.

molly d (mollyd), Tuesday, 10 October 2006 15:27 (seventeen years ago) link

Yeah, I've never made anything with long sleeves so I never needed a sleeve one. Although if I did, I would probably put a layer of felt or batting over a big wooden dowel, in a pinch.

Regular ham:
http://www.bblackandsons.com/store/media/product-images/pressing_supplies/PS-04.jpg

Laurel (Laurel), Tuesday, 10 October 2006 15:35 (seventeen years ago) link

Super! That's what they have!

I think, after I complete my apron, I will try something non-threatening like a tote-bag. I think I may try this:

http://www.supereggplant.com/archives/000216.html

molly d (mollyd), Tuesday, 10 October 2006 16:02 (seventeen years ago) link

what is the ham for?

. . .and a soda on the side (Molly Jones), Tuesday, 10 October 2006 17:14 (seventeen years ago) link

It's for pressing any seams or parts of your sewing that aren't flat or straight! Especially bust and hip darts. Also comes in handy for pinning things together sometimes when one side that you're attaching is straighter than the other and you need to make both edges line up with the least amount of distortion.

Laurel (Laurel), Tuesday, 10 October 2006 17:18 (seventeen years ago) link

Plus you can stick pins into them to hold the fabric in place while you do things, and the top (plaid) side is a little bit fuzzy so your pieces don't slip off it. It's kind of genius.

I've also read that, if you want a skirt hem to float REALLY nicely for a special occasion, you can iron it out section by section on the ham rather than flat on the ironing board...it will give it just a little more rounding and body. Of course it's also more work.

Laurel (Laurel), Tuesday, 10 October 2006 17:20 (seventeen years ago) link

hooray for my finished apron! no unfortunate accidents! a certifiable success!


http://static.flickr.com/101/271857434_a8edf1035b.jpg?v=0

molly d (mollyd), Tuesday, 17 October 2006 00:57 (seventeen years ago) link

I want to start quilting again this spring. I moved my sewing machine out of my room when I started teaching remotely, because I needed the space to make a home office. So now it's on the third floor, which is an okay workspace but very cold. Once it warms up, I've got a bunch of quilts I'm somewhere in the middle of - one that just needs its border quilted and a binding, one that's just a quilt top with no border, and one that's halfway through the patchwork stage. My goal for this spring is to finish at least one of them, so I'm posting this here in hopes that I can hold myself to that.

Lily Dale, Friday, 26 February 2021 01:03 (three years ago) link

one month passes...

maybe crosspost to knitting thread but i just got a year craftsy premium subscription for $2.49. just need to set a reminder to cancel it before they autobill me a year from now. ime the classes are pretty good. i did a knitting one several years ago and i became a way better knitter.

superdeep borehole (harbl), Wednesday, 21 April 2021 20:45 (two years ago) link

I got obsessed w knitting in college when I didn't actually know how to knit but thought I would learn, so I have a few books with socks and sweater patterns in them. I could send them to an interested party!

Ima Gardener (in orbit), Wednesday, 21 April 2021 20:48 (two years ago) link

i would but i'm on an embargo from obtaining books and things in general so you will just have to learn to knit :)

superdeep borehole (harbl), Wednesday, 21 April 2021 21:15 (two years ago) link


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