ils thread for general menswear and men's clothing ish

i dont think there is like an official difference between blazer, sportcoat and suit jacket

and I know you're supposed to get the arms dead on, but my tailor took in the arms on the j crew suit?

"my tailor"

"took in" as in made them narrower or shorter?

hmmm

42R or 42S? that has the potential to look too baggy on me unless it's S

just a plain ol 42

cv - suit width is the hardest thing to tailor, so you did right in passing it up

I mean, the chest

argh, that's gonna be too big for me ;_;

brb, growing 4 inches and eating a pie

tbh i don't really understand what a blazer in this sense is, except a blue suit jacket without its trousers. is it just slightly more deconstructed cut, cotton mix rather than wool?

suit jackets tend to fit differently ime - like i have a few nice suits but if i wore the jacket with chinos or jeans it'd look weird. a blazer and a sports jacket are kinda interchangeable to me tho i'd have said sports jacket was more used to describe more patterned pieces.

didn't know blazer in english sense meant double breasted.

shoulders are the hardest i think! i was told the only thing that really matters is getting the shoulders right

made the shoulders narrower. also made the armholes smaller.
as I understand it.
lengthened the sleeves.

trouble is I need like a 38 long, which never exists. this tailor seemed to suggest that if I get something too big (so at least the jacket is the right length), he could narrow the correct parts.

xpost

pretty sure "sport coat" is, by defn, single breasted for manoeuvrability when shooting pheasant/reading blogs. other than that, yeah, no idea.

suit jackets are different insofar as they are actually made as part of a suit ie with a matching pair of pants made from the same fabric? but i dont think theres like an official Tailors Union this is how a suit jacket fits and this is how a sportcoat fits

the problem is that if I get an off the shelf jacket with the shoulders right on, it probably means the whole jacket is too short.

once you're getting up to 600-700 + tailoring it might be time to start looking at m2m?

yeah cv i was gonna say, having met you in person you might need to go the m2m route

shoulders are the hardest i think! i was told the only thing that really matters is getting the shoulders right

― max, Monday, August 19, 2013 4:40 PM (36 seconds ago) Bookmark Flag Post Permalink

yah there is no jacket in the world that fits me off the rack so i have to get everything tailored but this is what i aim for

i am also a 38/36 and all the jackets that fit on me would look ridiculous on you cv!

dyao did you ever do m2m in HK?

I would google "m2m" but I somehow suspect I would not find what you guys are talking about

ok follow up: anyone know how much that starts to cost? I mean if I had to splurge but got something very ideal in return (that I could use forever), I'd consider it.

suit jackets are different insofar as they are actually made as part of a suit ie with a matching pair of pants made from the same fabric? but i dont think theres like an official Tailors Union this is how a suit jacket fits and this is how a sportcoat fits

no, agreed. tho i think with more trad suits the jackets don't work quite so well on their own, whereas with more modern or hipster brands the suit jacket tends to be cut so they can sell it on its own.

m2m
http://imageshack.us/a/img715/3959/000ba83amedium.jpg

caek - yeah, i had 2 suits done by a pair of tailor twins

one of my suit pants got scratched up by my brother's cat, and the suit jacket is now a blazer/sprot coat/whatever. the jacket fits great, though, and i don't really want to go out and deal with the hassle of trying to find another good fitting suit since it's a pain in the ass. is there any way you can get like ... color/fabric matching for pants??? all of my attempts have led to slightly mismatched color combos.

cv i only know of indochino because steve nash advertises for them, but i think you can probably keep it under 800? dunno if you could get a 'classic' cut from them tho

i know people who get theirs made in the uk but they pay like £1500-2000, which is apparently about as cheap as london non-hotel-indian/hk tailoring gets

pro-tip: if you love the jacket and it fits well and you want to wear it for a long time/every day: buy two pairs of trousers.

ah I get it, m2m is sort of a cheaper alternative to bespoke.

doing a little research now.

Spectrum, my understanding is that, due to the mercurial output of weaving techniques, it is nigh-impossible to find a matching pair of pants for an orphaned jacket or vice versa.

there are places in nyc now iirc that do the indochino thing where they have their stuff made in asia but they have showrooms where you can go in and get measured and look at fabrics and cuts

I know about indochino, just always seemed like a pretty big risk.

xxp yeah, i was afraid of that :{

ah xpost

i have the black lapel shirt i ordered but i havent opened it yet

the generally agreed upon top HK tailors start at about Ł850 for basic fabric. you can go as low as Ł400 though with it still turning out ok. this is for hk

i mean, 400 pounds at other, non-top HK tailors

yeah m2m you will generally be picking from a smaller range of fabrics, and you can't do arbitrary things with pockets/lining

bespoke they will give you enough rope to hang yourself (see e.g. my dad's wedding suit)

pro-tip: if you love the jacket and it fits well and you want to wear it for a long time/every day: buy two pairs of trousers.

― caek, Monday, August 19, 2013 4:47 PM (2 minutes ago) Bookmark

the tailor twins tried to hardsell me on this but i was like, i'm only ever gonna wear your nice suit at interviews and stuff

you shouldve demanded that each of them make one of the pairs

wait so if it starts at 850, how much does it end up costing with labor etc?

xp as twins i'd imagine they work on the same garments where they start at opposite ends and finish it when they both reach the middle

don't care too much about pockets/lining, just want a good fit!

DJP - 850 pounds (or about 1300 USD) is all in

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHW5_Kc2XmY

their names are johnny and bonny

ahhhh I misread your symbol, I thought you were saying 850 HK dollars, not 850 pounds

I was about to do a massive happy dance and order suits I didn't need

johnny and bonny tactical eagle

my mac doesn't do the L thingy when i hold the L key down