Tell me about rock climbing, climbing walls, lessons, gear, etc., especially in NYC

I want to learn. Good places to go? Lessons necessary? Most economical way to do it? Amount of practice I'll need before trying a real climb?

― surfer blood for oil (Hurting 2), Saturday, July 17, 2010 2:09 PM (10 months ago) Bookmark

places to go: The Gunks. for real. while there are some great gyms in NYC, no doubt, you are just a short-ish drive from one of the nation's rock climbing treasures. if you really want a taste of what makes climbers so nutty, just skip everything below and go sign up for a top-roping course up in the Gunks. dollars to donuts there's one offered every weekend.

lessons necessary: for anything more than bouldering, absolutely. ideally you have a (trustworthy) friend, but it wouldn't hurt to take a class imo. a lot of climbers have unrecognized bad habits, and when it comes to safety, habit is everything. i was fortunate in that i had a dad who climbed (when he was younger), and who also signed me up for a class at a local gym since a lot of what he knew was out of date. when the time comes to start building anchors (top rope or on lead), you and your partners will benefit greatly (by not dying) from education. if you can't afford a course, get a stack of books. i'm happy to make some recommendations.

economy: start with bouldering. all you need is a pair of shoes and a chalkbag to get started at a gym. crashpad if (and when, hopefully) you venture outside. after that, accumulating gear happens in fits and starts, as you need it. the weightiest purchase will be a rack (that is: the protective stuff you carry up on a lead climb), since it's kind of an all or nothing sorta deal. that is, you can accumulate it by piecemeal, if you like, but you can't safely climb without the complete set. as to what constitutes a complete set, well...

as for practice before "real climbing": if you mean "outdoor climbing," then the answer is zero. climbing outside is no more difficult than climbing inside (often easier!), if we're talking physical exertion. it can definitely be ~scarier~ (exposure is real), but some of the most classic climbs in the world are baby day parades compared to what an AVERAGE gym climber can pull off. no joke. getting up this:
http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/178408.jpg
is heaps easier than this
http://cbsatlanta.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/atlanta_rocks.jpg?w=300&h=225

it just takes longer and has more objective hazards. but an active adult person likely has the fitness base to be capable of doing it with little to no training (our very own the tune is space has topped it, iirc).

anyway go climbing, it's awesome

check out my rack
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5184/5809081119_0beacf11f3.jpg

o_0

I am nowhere NEAR as serious as you. I would like to be someday.

bear in mind that that took a ~long~ time to accumulate. and much of it after a left-field, windfall gear inheritance from a friend.

could probably make due without the cams (the costliest stuff items, obv), but boy that would be just a little too retro for this guy

if you're just getting into sport climbing, all you need is
-harness
-belay device (grigris are a nice luxury, but hardly worth it for the beginner. also they teach bad habits, imo)
-rope (60m, 10.5mm for longevity)
-8 to 10 quickdraws (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:2quickdraws.saa.jpeg
-some way to clip into the anchors/chains at the top of an outdoor sport climb*
-shoes (not ~strictly~ necessary in the way that everything else is, but your life will suck w/o)
-chalk (not necessary at all, according to some grumpuses in northern minnesota)

*a word about this: what to do at the top of a sport climb is, after proper belay technique, the most important set of safety skills/routines that a new sport climber must learn. it's where i've observed the scariest bad habits**, and it's how my friend's gf died in an accident. none of it is difficult to learn or perform correctly, but it's absolutely vital.

**it's actually because of this that i'd recommend a class over trusting a buddy. eg it's common for people to use a daisy chain as their means of attachment to the top anchors. i was gonna write a whole thing about why that's stupid and scary, but black diamond made a video for me instead http://vimeo.com/14679471

thing is: LOTS AND LOTS of people do the wrong thing without thinking.

-chalk (not necessary at all, according to some grumpuses in northern minnesota)

Hah, I don't use chalk at all. I may change my tune outside under the sun.

def need to check out the bouldering up north, methinks

http://vimeo.com/24519413

http://vimeo.com/10886536

xp i'm sort of addicted to it, but i think that it might not ~really~ be that necessary.

i saw the rack as i scrolled and knew it must be gbx.

if anyone wears 44s i got a really minty pair of la sportivas from 1996 i will part with. i don't know how i ever got my feets in them.

http://i.imgur.com/IASvk.jpg

this is my old pal on flyin hawaiian (11a), a rumney classic. starts as a kinda grunty overhanging thing that i hate and then unfolds into the beautiful dihedral you see before you. <3 it

(nb i did not take this photo)

Eric/tabes: what kind of shoes are you guys using these days? I've got a pair of old moccasyms that need replacing and am vaguely overwhelmed by the choices out there

La Sportivas are too narrow for me :(

have also discovered the existence of Crane Lake in n Minnesota and would like to go there v much

def need to get out to the needles in sd and do some easy scary trad too. get my head back in the game.

omg want

http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/62-grandstone

http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/62_127101_1266971128.jpg

gbx, i have a pair of 5.10's that i use when i do outdoor, which will finally happen again in a few weeks...
but for indoor sport climbing, i just use a cheapo pair of evolv Defy VTRs.

the ones that i want are the new super-expensive, Sharma-designed Shamans from evolv.

http://www.evolvesports.com/images/large_product/shaman_profile.png

i've heard good things about evolv! and that defy vtr looks a lot like my old 5.10 UFOs which were the friggin best. price is outstanding, too

I am currently using 5.10s too. I got a pair of Red Chilis once and the leather started pulling away from the rubber in a matter of months. No good.

Haven't been climbing in 4 days. I'm going crazy.

plans were to go to the tower this weekend but my partner is thinking otherwise

i haven't been in weeks :-/

I should just climb some walls at work. I've given it thought. Some of them have slats.

do it. buildering is fun!

Haha, I've gotten about halfway up my building's chimney before I realized it would be bad to fall. Or tear out a brick.

BUMP FOR NEW CLIMBING GYM YAYYYYYYYY

I know! Posted in WDYLL in celebration.

It's pretty fantastic AND (best of all) they have an area they have specifically set aside for the kids involved in birthday parties to all climb together. Away from the rest of us.

man i am so excited. i went again today (after going yesterday and friday), and i'm getting worried that i'm going to climb right into an injury

Perhaps now/soon is the time to have a climb date. Before you hurt yourself, I mean.

(Self-ish) promotion time:

http://minnesota.cbslocal.com/2011/11/11/vertical-endeavors-opens-new-climbing-gym-in-mpls/

baller!

also: membership sale on saturday, $359/yr

\m/

***drudge sirens here***

Name of Product: Joss rock climbing cam

Units: About 1,280

Importer: Sierra Trading Post, of Cheyenne, Wy.

Manufacturer: Cassin Sri, of Italy

Hazard: The recalled cams can fail unexpectedly after being set, posing a fall hazard.

Incidents: One incident reported in Europe. No deaths or injuries reported in the U.S.

Description: The Joss Cam is a mechanical device placed in the crack of a rock to support a climber's weight. The Cam is operated by a trigger that retracts the aluminum lobes, allowing the device to be placed and secured in the crack of a rock. A cable is attached to the device with a heavy duty nylon sling attached to the end of the cable. Joss Cams come in eight sizes and each Cam is marked with the size (.5 to 4). The sling on the end features solid horizontal blocks of color (yellow, orange, purple, red, green and blue) indicating size. The "Cassin" logo is also printed on a tag attached to the sling. The Sierra Trading Post item numbers associated with this recall are #69277 and #69278. These numbers can be found on the original packaging label or order invoice.

Sold at: Sierra Trading Post nationwide from August 2003 through March 2006 for $3 to $32.

Asked someone from N1cr0s about the route-setting when I was on the story shoot and he told me that it pays somewhere between $5 and $50 per route, depending on difficulty and other factors.

Was mostly curious to see if one could earn a living off it. Answer: no (at VE at least).

I wonder what ponytail dude at the st Paul VE makes. Seems like a no frills kinda guy

Also: do you get the impression that the grades are kinda soft at the mpls location? At least in the bouldering areas? Cuz I've climbed two V5s this week which is nonsensical since i haven't been to the gym in months and have been mountain biking all summer. Like, I'm usually good for 5.10 off the couch, but V5 is sorta nutty. /no brag

nb I haven't tied into anything yet, I've either been solo or with knuckle draggers

I wonder what ponytail dude at the st Paul VE makes

He does so much and is there so often, I presume he's making more than just his milk money.

Yeah, not sure what to make of the grades at Mpls. yet. The top rope courses struck me as much harder due to length and the callus-tearing newness of the holds. But the bouldering routes were a little light, yeah.

thx for the update btw Laurel! I would be hella concerned except that I'm pretty sure no one in America uses those? (euro gear isn't that popular ime---most ppl use BD or metolius or those weirdo link cams (which are totally awesome btw))

xp oh I wouldn't doubt that it's a major source of income! Just that the dude seems like an older version of my college bud bobby h4rding (and a contemporary of the inimitable j0hn j0line), who actually lived in the school's climbing gym when it was too cold to live in his van anymore

see the nice thing about coming into this with no callouses means that the new holds are just Velcro. also, less sliding around on top of callouses means less chance of ~flappers~

I get the CPSC safety alert emails about that stuff for work, just putting it out there!

Guy in charge of overseeing route-setting told me they call that guy "troll," because he comes out of that cave at the St. Paul location and scares little kids.

~flappers~

*shudder*

Guy in charge of overseeing route-setting told me they call that guy "troll," because he comes out of that cave at the St. Paul location and scares little kids.

― dor Dumbeddownball (Eric H.), Friday, November 11, 2011 2:16 PM (1 minute ago) Bookmark

LOL

i have basically exhausted all the bouldering at at the mpls location (or at least everything i can manage). slightly worried about my elbow (had a pang of the tendonitis last night), should prolly do some roped stuff soon if i'm going to make this membership worth it

I'd say text me and let's pick a time, but I'm infuriatingly busy up through Thxgiving. Soon, tho.

going now-ish iirc

Shoot. I had a screening tonight at the Lagoon. I probably could've managed to swing up Nicollet and catch you.

ah well.

btw just discovered UDDER BALM for chapped hands.

ayo eric h were you at the gym yesterday? i was on the way to the restroom and saw what looked like you in the Bathroom Cave (or w/e you want to call it) but after that nada

was it an ~illusion~

I was there yesterday. No illusions -- that's my real Manuary beard coming in! (LOL at the bathroom cave.)

there's a p fun v6 in there right now btw.

I think I've been bouldering too much though. I used to clown knuckle dragging boulderers who could slay v8+ and whimper on 5.8, and now I'm a guy who gets winded on 5.9 walk ups. VE is tall!

also what are your thoughts on the upper area? straw poll of my dudes says that it is hell of dangerous, and that the gym is poorly laid out in general (safety wise).

Still mostly top out at V5 on bouldering. Steering clear of 5.12s at the Mpls location for the time being, at least until I buy some shoes that aren't worn out in the big toe areas. (I wish I was joking.)

Yeah, I'm a little leery of that area. It's incredibly compact with way too many ropes jammed in. And then they're going to add some more autobelays? Uh-uh.

Oh, and I think we exchanged cell #s at some point, right? I'd love to top rope with you so I can get some advice from someone who's been at it for awhile.

For sho. I'm in Duluth for the next three weeks (fyi the VE there blows), was just down here for a bday weekend.

I generally max at V5 too---there seems to be a hard break between 5 and 6 at the gym for some reason.

Also, some of Mpls' 5.10s are insanely difficult.

Cool. February it is.

Word

yaay climbing! i'm still a total newb, but i love it so much! right now i'm at challenging 5.8 overhangs and not falling off every time - getting balance figured out, engaging muscles that are like "oh hello again!!" (i think i used ALL of my stomach muscles doing something the other day), shoulders getting stronger, etc etc. good times.

also, in the spring/summer, my climbing gym is opening another space - including a silo! - 111 feet of climbing!
video: http://vimeo.com/32456243 (new space and silo stuff starts at 2:20)

so yeah, i'm working hard this winter :)

and my friends head outdoors all the time in late spring and throughout summer, so i'm super excited about that whole world too!

To wish gbx a happy birthday on this thread?

why not!
happy birthday, gbx! climb high and strong and not just on the rocks <3 :)

aw thx dudes

i think i really fell in love with climbing last night at the gym, like this sublime awesome feeling
it's funny because i always start each climbing session feeling a little rough and wondering why i do this in the first place because it's damn challenging and kind of harsh sometimes (to ego and to body). but after warming up on a couple of climbs, all is well and i'm happy and invigorated! i guess i've felt that with other sports/activities, but this is different. in a weird way, it's kind of like writing... or at least the way i write, process-wise.

anyway, yesterday i conquered a new climb and one i'd tried before a couple of weeks ago and couldn't get past 3/4 of the way - a 5.8 but a tough one, for me anyway, because it was much more technical and balance-y than other 5.8s i had less problem with. i've been learning more technique stuff and playing with balance so what was awesome was that i only fell once, didn't take other than coming back from the fall, and actually climbed rather quickly. yaay! also i just have to say, it was also awesome to be climbing that route right after a guy taller and much stronger than me had a super rough time making it even halfway up. brains over brawn y'all! ;)

i don't think my upper body has ever been this strong? it's like i can't believe that going climbing once a week has such an effect! but climbing is intense. my legs were already strong but getting stronger too. and my balance is getting better. it's an interesting thing to notice, these changes.
tried a 5.9 today, totally fell off in the first couple of metres. lol. one step at a time. (my friend said it wasn't the easiest of 5.9s, but hey.)

Holy Moses a live feed of Tommy Caldwell and Ken Jorgeson attempting to do El Capitan's Dawn Wall in a single push, all free:

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/watch-the-final-push-of-the-dawn-wall-live[

hello thread. I just started bouldering. I love it! I'm a bit crap at it though but I want to get better. already fed up of renting shoes though so I'm thinking of buying some and it's all a bit daunting. they can be expensive, but I don't want to buy cheap and pay twice, you know what I mean?

Is this our catch-all/only climbing and bouldering thread?

I stated bouldering a couple of months ago (indoors) and am absolutely loving it. Going once a week with a wee group of friends for a couple of hours. It's so challenging (both physically and also in terms of fear/confidence on a tough climb), but so satisfying as well.

Watching loads of climbing videos while working and am itching to try some outdoors stuff. Probably should try to hook up with some more experienced folks to do so a few times without having to invest in expensive bouldering mats.

Anyone else here on ilx into their bouldering?

I tried this a few years ago, mostly cause I had a crush on a guy who was really into bouldering. Not for me :)

gbx to thread if he ever sees this!

PS I'm a long way from NYC.

ilx Glasgow climbing crew representing.

bouldering is great! i haven't done much climbing in the last couple years, for reasons, but bouldering is a great way to get into it

would imagine there'd be loads around glasgow?

I go bouldering about 2-3 times per week in the gym, and occasionally outdoors. I am still working on a system to allow me to use a harness again— I have a permanent colostomy as of a few years ago, which makes climbing harnesses a wee bit intense/scary— but I continue to boulder v6-v7 indoors and about v4+ outdoors. I love it and the months away from it during the pandemic made me realize how integral it's been to feeling in touch with my body over the years.

I guess there must be quite a few good spots around Glasgow, yeah, but I've not been out into the outdoor climbing world yet, so not sure exactly where's best. I only know a couple of possible places - The Whangie (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_whangie-193) and Auchinstarry Quarry (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/auchinstarry_quarry-226) though not sure how much at each is decent for bouldering and how much is more for roped climbing.

We do have this purpose built outdoor bouldering area close to me, which I really need to try if I ever get a free daytime with decent weather. Should be a perfect place for a first try at outdoor stuff. https://www.climbscotland.net/where-to-go/get-outdoors/cuningar-loop-boulders

I’m now at projecting V8s and V9s, and sending most of the former. Stronger than I’ve been in years, I think because my husband started climbing and didn’t know anything, so I had to teach him. It’s been a really nice and fun way to hang out, and plus I’ve moved up a full grade since he started— something about running laps on easier problems to demonstrate movements and issues to him has really made it!

went to the tallest indoor walls in PA today and had a nice time

Seems the most appropriate thread...gets started about a minute in. Wowzers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdV6H3gTd3E

omg

Funny, went bouldering yesterday outdoors and nearly sent my first outdoor V5, did a V4s and a bunch of V3s! climbing outside is much more difficult than in the gym, humbling and fun.

here’s another guy sending the V5, he makes it look deceptively easy but he also has a few inches on me

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEEGfFu5qEk