wd all these play nicely together and wd they go on my concorde OK. my new wheels are 10sp compatible
crankset - 50 - tiagrahttp://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-tiagra-4650-compact-10sp-chainset/rp-prod67233shifters - 54 - tiagrahttp://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-tiagra-4600-double-10-speed-sti-lever/rp-prod69504front derailleur - 18 - 10sp 105http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-105-5700-double-10sp-front-mech/rp-prod50487rear derailleur - 29 - 10sp 105http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-105-5701-10-speed-rear-mech/rp-prod85966bottom bracket - 11http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-4600-tiagra-bottom-bracket/rp-prod67221chain - 13 - 10sp 105http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-105-5701-10-speed-chain/rp-prod50457cassette - 15 - 10sp tiagrahttp://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-tiagra-4600-10-speed-road-cassette/rp-prod67228brakes - 32http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-tiagra-brake-caliper-4600/rp-prod67224
― =(3 Ɛ)= (cozen), Saturday, 21 December 2013 21:33 (ten years ago) link
225£ for tiagra/105 mix seems p.good when sora is 210 online
Should do, if you I'd see about 105 shifters although that setup should be compatible.
― American Fear of Pranksterism (Ed), Monday, 23 December 2013 10:14 (ten years ago) link
been offered dura-ace shifters & mechs for the same price. second hand but tempted
not sure now - my concorde is columbus aelle, so fairly heavy. I guess if I upgraded the group on it, I cd transfer the parts to a better frame in time
― =(3 Ɛ)= (cozen), Monday, 23 December 2013 18:07 (ten years ago) link
think it's DA7800. and there's an offer of ultegra cranks too, which wd get me most of the way to a full group. just leaves the 'consumables'
hmmmm
― =(3 Ɛ)= (cozen), Monday, 23 December 2013 18:09 (ten years ago) link
I bought a groupset but
I think I might have bought the wrong threaded bb : /
― =(3 Ɛ)= (cozen), Wednesday, 25 December 2013 15:23 (ten years ago) link
So....
I got a turbo trainer a few weeks ago. I like it, but I fear it is wearing my rear tyre down quite quickly. Effectively, I only have one bike (my heavy 'winter' bike is now a heavy commuter bike, with carrier fitted and pedals that you can't clip into) and only one set of wheels. I know there are turbo-specific tyres that you can buy, but obviously I'm not going to change the tyre on my wheel every day as I alternate between riding on the turbo and riding on the road. So such a tyre would only be useful if I had another wheel.
So I face a choice: should I buy a cheap back wheel (and cassette), stick a turbo tyre on it and use this exclusively when I want to use the turbo? Or should I upgrade my wheels and use my old rear wheel as the turbo wheel?
My existing wheels are nothing special - Mavic Aksium. I was asking at my local bike shop and new ones of those cost something like £220, I think. To get a cheap new rear wheel, plus cassette, plus tyre, plus inner tube was something in the region of £150. To upgrade to the unpronounceable Mavic Ksyrium would be approx £400. The weight isn't hugely different, so I'm not convinced this would be worth it. I can't even remotely justify spending one or two grand on wheels to get the really good ones.
But....
At my cycling club last night someone was telling me that he got his frame from Velobuild. I don't fully understand it, but it appears to be some kind of forum that somehow acts as a bulk purchaser from China and so gets you products for about a third of what they ought to cost. He got a carbon frame this way and is very happy with it. He reckons I could get carbon wheels weighing just 1300g for only about £300-£400, when they should cost over a thousand. This sounds very tempting. Does anyone know anything about Velobuild?
Also, on a practical level, the velobuild wheels I was looking at earlier said they should be used with SwissStop yellow brake blocks. These are for carbon rims. I've been recommended SwissStop before as the best brake blocks available, and I currently ride with the black ones (for alloy rim, which is what I've got). Hypothetically, if I was doing a circuit race with carbon wheels and got a puncture and took a lap out to put my spare (alloy) wheel in, would these yellow brake pads work OK with the spare wheel?
― If it was up to the unions we still have stream trains (Nasty, Brutish & Short), Wednesday, 12 February 2014 23:01 (ten years ago) link
I decided against it: the more I read about carbon wheels, the more I thought they might not be worth the risk/hassle (especially with the additional complication of trying to get into a group purchase of an unbranded product from China). I've just blown my budget massively and ordered some Fulcrum Racing 1s (lightweight aluminium). I can't really justify the expense, but I feel giddy with excitement.
― If it was up to the unions we still have stream trains (Nasty, Brutish & Short), Friday, 14 February 2014 09:53 (ten years ago) link
I think you did right. If u are racing carbon brake tracks with carbon blocks and you sub in an alloy wheel, you really shouldn't use the blocks on carbon. Metal filings from the alloy get embedded in the block and then score your carbons to hell. Whether the carbon pads work on the alloy anyway is prolly dependent on the pad. I ended up on corks with alloy by accident once and it was veery bad.
― waved my hands in the air (problems solved) (Hunt3r), Sunday, 16 February 2014 15:43 (ten years ago) link
Several yrs ago I bought some yushin 60mm deep tubular wheels direct from china for under $450 all in, out of curiosity. Cheap but adequate hubs, good tension, great truing, ride nicely. I use them for tt race only, so they've not been ridden much.
― waved my hands in the air (problems solved) (Hunt3r), Sunday, 16 February 2014 15:49 (ten years ago) link
Would not buy a clincher carbon for general or racing use from anyone but a premier manufacturer with good rep and warranty tho.
― waved my hands in the air (problems solved) (Hunt3r), Sunday, 16 February 2014 15:52 (ten years ago) link
Sorry it's "yushin". Looked at their current site it's much uh busier now and prices even lower lol. Somehow that's even sketchier to me, but still...my experience was fine. Man I now remember that I had to western union direct to I think maybe guongzhao or something, and thinking as I sent it that it was one of the dumbest things I had ever done.
― waved my hands in the air (problems solved) (Hunt3r), Sunday, 16 February 2014 16:01 (ten years ago) link
Gah, it's YISHUN.
― waved my hands in the air (problems solved) (Hunt3r), Sunday, 16 February 2014 16:03 (ten years ago) link
Right, Y-u-s-h-i-n, got ya
― If it was up to the unions we still have stream trains (Nasty, Brutish & Short), Sunday, 16 February 2014 21:13 (ten years ago) link
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/b/b0/Levyashin01.jpg/332px-Levyashin01.jpg
GOAL
― waved my hands in the air (problems solved) (Hunt3r), Sunday, 16 February 2014 21:43 (ten years ago) link
Totally agree on no-carbon clinchers except from reputable manufacturers. Also on the call not to get the mysterious chinese wheels. Not least because you can get no-name chinese wheels shipped direct for cheaper. Having a separate wheel for the Turbo definitely helped me use it a little more often.
― American Fear of Pranksterism (Ed), Monday, 17 February 2014 23:30 (ten years ago) link
Off work today and managed to dodge the rain for long enough to ride over to the Hog Hill circuit and do a little bit of trainig. A few laps in and my gears made a horrible crunching sound as I tried to change into the small ring on a short, steep ascent. Half a lap further on, at the next steep climb, I realised I couldn't change onto the small ring at all, even though my front mech was clearly shifting across. On further investigation I discovered that the crank was rubbing against the mech every revolution when it was in the big ring. I asked for assistance, but fiddling with the limiters had no real effect. Eventually the kindly bloke helping me out realised that my cage was far wider than it should have been (must have got distored during the horrible crunching incident) and after squeezing it back in with pliers everything was fixed. But what on earth happened in the first place and why?
Also, a confession: when I got home I decided to carry out a rare wash of the bike which involved taking both wheels off. The rear wheel was incredibly difficult to remove and impossible to put back in again. This was very odd. It seemed to be something to do with the metal skewer which I had put in there last month (supplied with the Cycleops turbo trainer I bought). I removed the skewer and realised that I had idiotically not noticed there were two little springs, and so, thinking there was only one, I had put both of them on the same side (opposite the quick release lever). I really don't know what I'm doing.
― If it was up to the unions we still have stream trains (Nasty, Brutish & Short), Thursday, 20 February 2014 22:57 (ten years ago) link
Never heard of that during a downshift. Did you by any chance try to force another upshift by accident first, or maybe you also hit the upshift lever by accident while hitting the downshift trigger? If you had very little clearance between the cage and crank arm and there was a little travel left before hitting the limit screw, I can sorta imagine that happening, but otherwise- weird.
― flying under the radar because i'm bad (Hunt3r), Friday, 21 February 2014 00:12 (ten years ago) link
Wrt the springs, the issue I usually see is putting the spring onto the skewer in wrong orientation, which causes surprisingly significant problems.
― flying under the radar because i'm bad (Hunt3r), Friday, 21 February 2014 00:16 (ten years ago) link
Re: wrong skewer orientation - you mean big-to-small instead of small-to-big (or vice-versa)?
― If it was up to the unions we still have stream trains (Nasty, Brutish & Short), Friday, 21 February 2014 00:35 (ten years ago) link
yup yup
― flying under the radar because i'm bad (Hunt3r), Friday, 21 February 2014 01:23 (ten years ago) link
By the way, I set off for a ride yesterday and after just 4 miles I was changing gear when there was another horrible crunching sound and the front mech failed to shift again. On closer inspection it had actually split at the narrowest point of the cage, so the pliers trick isn't a permanent fix. I'm getting a new front mech on Friday (when my LBS is fitting my new chain and cassette to put the expensive new wheels into action), this is turning into a very costly month.
― Ewan Huzami (Nasty, Brutish & Short), Sunday, 23 February 2014 21:38 (ten years ago) link
I'm too old for it and would look ridiculous, but this shirt is dope
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kid-N-Play-Start-T-Shirt-/140930985686?pt=US_Mens_Tshirts&var=&hash=item20d0242ed6
http://images.oldglory.com/product/066757MITSf.jpg
― Burt Stuntin (Hurting 2), Tuesday, 25 February 2014 05:37 (ten years ago) link
Def wanna be rollin w kid n play
― flying under the radar because i'm bad (Hunt3r), Tuesday, 25 February 2014 12:43 (ten years ago) link
omg the new Surly ice cream truck and the higher zoot all-city macho men are all I want right now
― gbx, Tuesday, 25 February 2014 13:12 (ten years ago) link
was playin on internet and saw the og of fat bikes hanebrink now has multiple electric assist bikes.
― flying under the radar because i'm bad (Hunt3r), Tuesday, 25 February 2014 15:57 (ten years ago) link
Want to sell the Tricross and get a steel all-rounder / cx / winter / commuter.
Recommendations circa £1k please...
― i reject your shiny expensive consumerist stereo system (Scik Mouthy), Sunday, 2 March 2014 07:51 (ten years ago) link
So I had a snoop around some Exeter bike shops yesterday. Options available in town at the moment include:
Kona Honky TonkGenesis Equilibrium / Croix De Fer / CDF (latter two not on shop floor but orderable)Charge Plug 3.5Salsa VayaSalsa FargoSurly CrosscheckSpecialized AWOL
The Honky Tonk, Salsas, and AWOL are all available on CTW. Pretty sure the Genesis and Charge aren't.
The Fargo and AWOL are crazy options and not really what I'm after, but if I won the lottery, oh boy do they look like fun.
CDF / Honky Tonk / Crosscheck seem pretty comparable, except the latter two don't have disc brakes, which I think I'd like. Geometry on the Crosscheck is a touch old-fashioned, with the horizontal top tube.
Croix De Fer and Vaya seem reasonably comparable too, and are a step up from the CDF / Honky Tonk / Crosscheck (from circa £850 to circa £1200).
I can get approx £250 for my Tricross.
Sense tells me that CDF is the sensible option... But the Vaya is very nice. Small company, bit of exclusivity. I should test ride them all.
The other alternative is see if something secondhand comes up, I guess.
― i reject your shiny expensive consumerist stereo system (Scik Mouthy), Tuesday, 4 March 2014 12:09 (ten years ago) link
there was a 'honky inc' early stab at the disc roadie, think it's been retired in favour of the rove in the kona range; another all-roads bike with discs in the croix/crosscheck/plug mould. looks fetching in metal blue for this model year.
trek crossrip might be worth a look if you're not too wed to the steal is reel ethos too. I would maybe get one if I could get the work sitch sorted.
― if I only could, I'd make a meme with doge (haitch), Tuesday, 4 March 2014 12:25 (ten years ago) link
I think I definitely want steel; otherwise I could just upgrade all the mech on the Tricross. I also want to steer away from big brands, just out of snobbishness as much as anything else.
― i reject your shiny expensive consumerist stereo system (Scik Mouthy), Tuesday, 4 March 2014 12:54 (ten years ago) link
u reject their shiny expensive consumerist gear system
― CSI BONO (darraghmac), Tuesday, 4 March 2014 13:01 (ten years ago) link
Living where it rains seems like a rly good argument for discs on that type of bike.
― blot it out (Hunt3r), Tuesday, 4 March 2014 16:09 (ten years ago) link
I'll rep for salsa if only to keep my bros employed
― gbx, Tuesday, 4 March 2014 18:14 (ten years ago) link
i almost bought a powertap last night (*drinky motion*), like i had the credit card info in place, then thankfully, i realized i TOTALLY DON'T NEED A FUCKING POWERTAP. AT ALL. it was like i was possessed or in a trance.
― blot it out (Hunt3r), Wednesday, 5 March 2014 18:32 (ten years ago) link
Was Yoda nearby?
― he is looking only the ball (Nasty, Brutish & Short), Wednesday, 5 March 2014 20:01 (ten years ago) link
i thought it was just you or some other mantis, shortwaving common sense to me.
― blot it out (Hunt3r), Wednesday, 5 March 2014 20:05 (ten years ago) link
i would like to borrow someone's powertap to test the accuracy of my inride's calibration though. some people claim they are +- a couple watts, others say no way, 20 watts off.
― blot it out (Hunt3r), Wednesday, 5 March 2014 20:08 (ten years ago) link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/53cm-FR-602-Full-Carbon-3K-Glossy-Cyclocross-Bike-BSA-Frame-Fork-Disc-Brake-/171108271255?pt=US_Bicycles_Frames&hash=item27d6d90497
how about this thing do i buy it
― gbx, Wednesday, 5 March 2014 22:30 (ten years ago) link
only if you know somebody who already has one, and will rep for it's soundness imo.
― blot it out (Hunt3r), Wednesday, 5 March 2014 22:58 (ten years ago) link
I assume you have good health insurance and I know you know some doctors, so sure, why not.
― American Fear of Pranksterism (Ed), Wednesday, 5 March 2014 23:18 (ten years ago) link
Sorta thought q was a jest that is not the frame of a soul rider like gbx
― blot it out (Hunt3r), Wednesday, 5 March 2014 23:28 (ten years ago) link
Review of the charge plug 4 here.
A lot of the negatives sound like positives for this kind of bike.
http://road.cc/content/review/112830-charge-plug-4-road-bike
― American Fear of Pranksterism (Ed), Thursday, 6 March 2014 00:41 (ten years ago) link
that q was not in jest, i am A-OK w/carbon
ps - pretty sure that the frame in question is just an unbranded this: http://foundrycycles.com/bikes/auger
― gbx, Saturday, 8 March 2014 16:38 (ten years ago) link
i think i stand on my previous, if you can find someone to vouch for it and/or be confident it's a gray-market leak of an identifiable brand, it could be a greatdeal.
i think i mentioned round here that i bought one of these framesets pretty cheap. it is a canti frameset, as it will be raced, and discs are really just extra weight (imo) in colorado most of the time (yes, i know discs are the way and truth). anyway, compare the foundry and the sette frames. they are really verry similar- afaict identical geometry (for a 56cm: 72.5/73 degrees, 65mm(!) bb drop, 42.5 cm chainstay, 155mm headtube), both have the weird double wishbone seatstay, same shape of the chainstay bridge, the weird routing and shape of the f. derailler cable stop. look at the rear derailler cable routing, both have full cable from the top tube to the rear derailler, which is- well maybe that's the norm now, but i'd never seen it til i built up the sette. the big dif is discs and rear brake cable routing.
same factory/mold? coincidence? dunno. i do not have the mileage on my bike that i hoped for, but it handles great so far, the front end is incredibly stable with the 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 tapered head tube and massive fork blades.
― blot it out (Hunt3r), Sunday, 9 March 2014 01:06 (ten years ago) link
what is also funny is that both foundry and sette have four frame sizes, and the geometry is the same across ALL of them. it's gotta be the same frameset updated with discs. even if true though, the disc thing- discs stress frames/forks in very particular and afaik severe ways.
― blot it out (Hunt3r), Sunday, 9 March 2014 01:10 (ten years ago) link
bike computers: go
i'm thinking about a garmin edge 500 since it seems to do p much everything i need, and the 510 doesn't have much to recommend the price (as i learned reading the exhaustive review at the literally incredible website dcrainmaker.com --- credit where credit is due, the guy does fantastic reviews and seems to have no problem whatsoever going out in public on a tri-bike that has something like 5-7 computers on it, along with several power meters)
i'm sorta hoping that maybe a lil investment in training stuff might actually spur me into getting back into shape since i am now v much a fat, fat mantis
― gbx, Monday, 24 March 2014 20:43 (ten years ago) link
yeah, that guy's site is o_0, i use it to keep abreast of tech matters.
i like my garmin 500, it's now almost 4 years old. it just keeps working. conditions here are good though, it hardly ever gets wet.
i think i'd rather have no computer on my bike than something other than my garmin, which is kinda crazy. but it's so tidy, no wires, no magnets, you just slap it on there and go.
― a nation filled with lead (Hunt3r), Monday, 24 March 2014 20:50 (ten years ago) link
I have the 705 and it has been pretty reliable for nearly 5 years. I had to replace the battery. Mapping function is useless, not much better on the 800/810 so not worth going higher than the 500. I'd probably buy a 500 if I were buying one now.
I guess I'm in the same boat as Hunt3r, I have no idea what I would have on my bike if I didn't have a garmin.
― American Fear of Pranksterism (Ed), Monday, 24 March 2014 21:10 (ten years ago) link
I've got the 800 and it's great.
― he is looking only the ball (Nasty, Brutish & Short), Monday, 24 March 2014 22:42 (ten years ago) link
sold
― gbx, Tuesday, 25 March 2014 02:12 (ten years ago) link