RIDING GIANTS

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just north of la jolla.

― vahid (vahid), Friday, 11 March 2005 03:12 (twenty-one years ago)

two weeks pass...

haha gygax are you gonna see THE COOLIES?!

― etc (esskay), Monday, 28 March 2005 10:31 (twenty-one years ago)

I saw RIDING GIANTS last night. Great!

LAIRD hamilton yes.

― Airtube (nordicskilla), Saturday, 2 April 2005 23:54 (twenty-one years ago)

I am going to this:

http://www.billabong.com/filmfestival/

next Friday @ Balboa in SF

― does that make you want to touch yourself? (nordicskilla), Thursday, 7 April 2005 14:28 (twenty-one years ago)

Because nobody asked for it...official thread for anticipating LORDS OF DOGTOWN!!!

― Samuel Glickstein (nordicskilla), Monday, 18 April 2005 18:15 (twenty-one years ago)

http://www.pinkfud.org/turbid/main/index.php/Burritos

― Samuel Glickstein (nordicskilla), Monday, 18 April 2005 18:28 (twenty-one years ago)

eight months pass...

YO GYGAX! WINTER STORM IN EFFECT!

10-12 ft waves at swami's today! 20 ft overhead at the face! jetskis! helicopters! cops and fire trucks and ambulances lined up on the 101 in case anybody drowned! every surfer who showed up had an entourage - bros for moral support, bros w/ video cameras.

what weirded me out most wasn't the intense size of the surf but

1) i can hear it breaking from my parent's house (this is pretty unusual - we're about 1 km away from the beach but it sounds like i'm standing on the cliffs )

2) seeing swells lined up 5 or 6 deep.

― vahid (vahid), Thursday, 22 December 2005 06:43 (twenty years ago)

I surfed blacks yesterday and today and got my ass kicked. I'm going to laugh when this swell breaks the boards of all us bros, and we won't be able to buy new ones

― tylero (tylero), Thursday, 22 December 2005 17:50 (twenty years ago)

holy fuck tyler - you are a madman.

― vahid (vahid), Friday, 23 December 2005 01:07 (twenty years ago)

did you see the lifeguard on TV who was trying to bodysurf at the cove yesterday? what a nutcase!

on the newsreels you could see crowds of seabirds gathered round, gulls and pelicans waiting for the sharp rocks to smash soft body and crack his skull open, so they could peck at the sweetbreads and feast on his brains.

― vahid (vahid), Friday, 23 December 2005 01:11 (twenty years ago)

two weeks pass...

http://www.mavsurfer.com/slide_shows/mavs_01_04_06/images/photo_10.jpg
http://www.mavsurfer.com/slide_shows/mavs_01_04_06/images/photo_12.jpg
http://www.mavsurfer.com/slide_shows/mavs_01_04_06/images/photo_14.jpg
http://www.mavsurfer.com/slide_shows/mavs_01_04_06/images/photo_15.jpg

― jaxon (jaxon), Friday, 6 January 2006 23:03 (twenty years ago)

fuuuuuuuuuuck

― [tuvan throat singer's profound lyric sheet-must read again] (nordicskilla), Friday, 6 January 2006 23:08 (twenty years ago)

you must be very proud.

I figgered out where maverick's is now. I drive past it often!

― [tuvan throat singer's profound lyric sheet-must read again] (nordicskilla), Friday, 6 January 2006 23:09 (twenty years ago)

that's the sort of photo that makes me 'get' surfing

― gear (gear), Friday, 6 January 2006 23:10 (twenty years ago)

be like me and play Kelly Slater on the ps2!

― [tuvan throat singer's profound lyric sheet-must read again] (nordicskilla), Friday, 6 January 2006 23:13 (twenty years ago)

lovely lovely.
m.

― msp (mspa), Friday, 6 January 2006 23:19 (twenty years ago)

Oh man I heart surfing.

...in an abstract way. What with the whole "land-locked Midwesterner" thing and all.

― gbx (skowly), Friday, 6 January 2006 23:28 (twenty years ago)

for those that don't know my last name, that's my brother

― jaxon (jaxon), Saturday, 7 January 2006 00:12 (twenty years ago)

dr.?

― hstencil (hstencil), Saturday, 7 January 2006 00:22 (twenty years ago)

you gotta love a big-wave riding gynaecologist.

― [tuvan throat singer's profound lyric sheet-must read again] (nordicskilla), Saturday, 7 January 2006 00:26 (twenty years ago)

towed in = lame

― tylero (tylero), Saturday, 7 January 2006 00:38 (twenty years ago)

Wait, is your brother the dude that gets interviewed in Riding Giants (or maybe Step Into Liquid)?

― gbx (skowly), Saturday, 7 January 2006 00:53 (twenty years ago)

he's a chiropractor. actually he does chiropractic biophysics. i guess they get a "dr" before their name? he went to school for 4 yrs.

i'm not sure if he's in either of those movies (i kinda doubt it), but he has Riding Giants playing in the office to entertain those waiting to see him.

towed in = lame

i can't tell from those photos if he was towed in. i don't see any jet ski in that first photo. also, why is it lame? could you surf those waves w/o it?

― jaxon (jaxon), Saturday, 7 January 2006 01:00 (twenty years ago)

you can't even tell if that is a tow in since in the first pic you can tell he drops down on the wave instead of swinging into it.

man, all towing in is getting a ride to the party. nothing wrong with that.

― ShawShank Rambo Connection (Carey), Saturday, 7 January 2006 02:59 (twenty years ago)

this stuff simultaneously amazes and frightens me. jealous of, maybe threatened by, those who have done it, and want to try myself. but i think i'd be too focused on savoring to be sufficiently in control. on second thought, i don't think i'd ever get past the fear enough to savor. hmm.

that thing in the movie about mavericks being like the grand canyon is pretty otm.

― gabbneb (gabbneb), Saturday, 7 January 2006 03:47 (twenty years ago)

i love the grain of the wave in that last photo

― gabbneb (gabbneb), Saturday, 7 January 2006 03:48 (twenty years ago)

i mean, i injured myself on a fricking sled

― gabbneb (gabbneb), Saturday, 7 January 2006 03:54 (twenty years ago)

it's pretty clearly a tow-in. in the first picture he's pretty far out on the shoulder for a paddle in, especially one at mavericks. Look at that long trail behind him...you can see a kind of fan of spray on the right hand side, where he was approaching the curl of the wave, and then turned to start going down the line. Even more clearly evidence of a tow-in is the fact that that is a pretty short board...looks like something in the 7'6" to 8'6" range. Paddle-in boards for mavs are more like in the 9'6" plus range.

The doctor in 'riding giants' (a pretty cool fick btw...especially the old 60's footage) was probably Dr. Mark Renneker, kind of a big-shot on the no-cal big-wave scene.

I've towed into pretty big surf (at todos santos), stuff that I'd have no chance of paddling into and making the drop, and given a 4 or 5 months to practice, I would tow into that wave. I'd never paddle into it though. It's really on a total other level of difficulty.

http://www.surfline.com/surfaz/images/curren_tom/jh_tcurren3_h.jpg

That is the quintessential surf pic for me. Like I said, given a few months of practice (and the will to do it...) I could pull off tow-ins at mavericks. Given a few years (and the balls) I could paddle in at mavericks.Given a few years of concerted practice (and the balls to do it), pretty much anybody could surf big waves. On the other hand, I could surf for hours and hours every day of my life and never ever do a cutback as clean and graceful as that one.

― tylero (tylero), Saturday, 7 January 2006 04:26 (twenty years ago)

I know I know, not very noize. That's still a damn heavy wave your brother is on, and he deserves massive respect for doing it.

― tylero (tylero), Saturday, 7 January 2006 04:29 (twenty years ago)

i hate the beach. i hate every thing about it. the sun, the sand, the water.

― jaxon (jaxon), Saturday, 7 January 2006 05:04 (twenty years ago)

yeah yeah.

we know

― [tuvan throat singer's profound lyric sheet-must read again] (nordicskilla), Saturday, 7 January 2006 21:46 (twenty years ago)

UN REAL BRO

― Steve Shasta (Steve Shasta), Thursday, 12 January 2006 18:31 (twenty years ago)

one month passes...

Check this heli-footage of Cortez Bank...

― Steve Shasta (Steve Shasta), Friday, 10 March 2006 20:31 (twenty years ago)

http://youtube.com/watch?v=1ol7XJJlz9E

― Steve Shasta (Steve Shasta), Friday, 10 March 2006 20:31 (twenty years ago)

apparently bro was in riding giants, but only for like 2 seconds

― team jaxon (jaxon), Friday, 10 March 2006 20:35 (twenty years ago)

I LIKE THIS VIDEO BETTER. http://youtube.com/watch?v=Fok_AqspFa0

ADAM, VAHID, JESS, WHAT SONG IS THIS?

― team jaxon (jaxon), Friday, 10 March 2006 20:37 (twenty years ago)

HOLY SHIT THAT CORTEZ BANK VID

― gbx (skowly), Friday, 10 March 2006 20:39 (twenty years ago)

jaxon, you really need a micro-korg.

― Steve Shasta (Steve Shasta), Friday, 10 March 2006 20:42 (twenty years ago)

i don't really like that song. but i would like the micro-korg

― team jaxon (jaxon), Friday, 10 March 2006 20:44 (twenty years ago)

When do you want to jam out?

― Steve Shasta (Steve Shasta), Friday, 10 March 2006 20:47 (twenty years ago)

The fact that you think i would know that song makes me sad.

Cortez Bank Youtube = amazing

― Adamrl (nordicskilla), Saturday, 11 March 2006 17:50 (twenty years ago)

shasta, i'm game, lets rave out.

adam, you deserve it after all the backpacker jokes

― team jaxon (jaxon), Saturday, 11 March 2006 20:34 (twenty years ago)

one year passes...

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/12/05/BAABTOFIF.DTL

A surfer stands by the covered body of Peter Davi, 45, a lifelong Monterey and Santa Cruz boarder who was killed while out among the huge waves of Ghost Trees near Pebble Beach on Monday

trying to surf 65 foot waves?!?

― moonship journey to baja, Wednesday, 5 December 2007 18:41 (eighteen years ago)

note to self:

IF (surf in ft) > (my age) THEN do not surf

― moonship journey to baja, Wednesday, 5 December 2007 18:42 (eighteen years ago)

http://www.sfgate.com/c/pictures/2007/12/05/mn_big_wave_death_camon105.jpg

damn son

― moonship journey to baja, Wednesday, 5 December 2007 18:44 (eighteen years ago)

http://www.sfgate.com/c/pictures/2007/12/05/mn_big_wave_death_camon101.jpg

here's the pic that matches that caption

"a surfer" = hasselhoff?!?

― moonship journey to baja, Wednesday, 5 December 2007 18:45 (eighteen years ago)

one year passes...

http://www.latimes.com/videobeta/watch/?watch=2ad04f17-e337-4bd2-bedc-a4b49b8884ba

― ♪♫(●̲̲̅̅̅̅=̲̲̅̅̅̅●̲̅̅)♪♫ (Steve Shasta), Friday, 6 November 2009 19:02 (sixteen years ago)

one month passes...

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2009/12/09/the-eddie-hawaii-big-wave_n_385488.html

― CC Sugbanthia (carne asada), Wednesday, 9 December 2009 18:08 (sixteen years ago)

my brother just flew out to hawaii on friday to go surfing. dunno what island he went to though

― jaxon, Wednesday, 9 December 2009 22:55 (sixteen years ago)

sup
http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?docId=5859599332847563504

― quiet and secretively we will always be together (Steve Shasta), Monday, 14 December 2009 13:18 (sixteen years ago)

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