ils thread for general menswear and men's clothing ish

yeah cv i was gonna say, having met you in person you might need to go the m2m route

shoulders are the hardest i think! i was told the only thing that really matters is getting the shoulders right

― max, Monday, August 19, 2013 4:40 PM (36 seconds ago) Bookmark Flag Post Permalink

yah there is no jacket in the world that fits me off the rack so i have to get everything tailored but this is what i aim for

i am also a 38/36 and all the jackets that fit on me would look ridiculous on you cv!

dyao did you ever do m2m in HK?

I would google "m2m" but I somehow suspect I would not find what you guys are talking about

ok follow up: anyone know how much that starts to cost? I mean if I had to splurge but got something very ideal in return (that I could use forever), I'd consider it.

suit jackets are different insofar as they are actually made as part of a suit ie with a matching pair of pants made from the same fabric? but i dont think theres like an official Tailors Union this is how a suit jacket fits and this is how a sportcoat fits

no, agreed. tho i think with more trad suits the jackets don't work quite so well on their own, whereas with more modern or hipster brands the suit jacket tends to be cut so they can sell it on its own.

m2m
http://imageshack.us/a/img715/3959/000ba83amedium.jpg

caek - yeah, i had 2 suits done by a pair of tailor twins

one of my suit pants got scratched up by my brother's cat, and the suit jacket is now a blazer/sprot coat/whatever. the jacket fits great, though, and i don't really want to go out and deal with the hassle of trying to find another good fitting suit since it's a pain in the ass. is there any way you can get like ... color/fabric matching for pants??? all of my attempts have led to slightly mismatched color combos.

cv i only know of indochino because steve nash advertises for them, but i think you can probably keep it under 800? dunno if you could get a 'classic' cut from them tho

i know people who get theirs made in the uk but they pay like £1500-2000, which is apparently about as cheap as london non-hotel-indian/hk tailoring gets

pro-tip: if you love the jacket and it fits well and you want to wear it for a long time/every day: buy two pairs of trousers.

ah I get it, m2m is sort of a cheaper alternative to bespoke.

doing a little research now.

Spectrum, my understanding is that, due to the mercurial output of weaving techniques, it is nigh-impossible to find a matching pair of pants for an orphaned jacket or vice versa.

there are places in nyc now iirc that do the indochino thing where they have their stuff made in asia but they have showrooms where you can go in and get measured and look at fabrics and cuts

I know about indochino, just always seemed like a pretty big risk.

xxp yeah, i was afraid of that :{

ah xpost

i have the black lapel shirt i ordered but i havent opened it yet

the generally agreed upon top HK tailors start at about Ł850 for basic fabric. you can go as low as Ł400 though with it still turning out ok. this is for hk

i mean, 400 pounds at other, non-top HK tailors

yeah m2m you will generally be picking from a smaller range of fabrics, and you can't do arbitrary things with pockets/lining

bespoke they will give you enough rope to hang yourself (see e.g. my dad's wedding suit)

pro-tip: if you love the jacket and it fits well and you want to wear it for a long time/every day: buy two pairs of trousers.

― caek, Monday, August 19, 2013 4:47 PM (2 minutes ago) Bookmark

the tailor twins tried to hardsell me on this but i was like, i'm only ever gonna wear your nice suit at interviews and stuff

you shouldve demanded that each of them make one of the pairs

wait so if it starts at 850, how much does it end up costing with labor etc?

xp as twins i'd imagine they work on the same garments where they start at opposite ends and finish it when they both reach the middle

don't care too much about pockets/lining, just want a good fit!

DJP - 850 pounds (or about 1300 USD) is all in

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHW5_Kc2XmY

their names are johnny and bonny

ahhhh I misread your symbol, I thought you were saying 850 HK dollars, not 850 pounds

I was about to do a massive happy dance and order suits I didn't need

johnny and bonny tactical eagle

my mac doesn't do the L thingy when i hold the L key down

argh, that's gonna be too big for me ;_;

brb, growing 4 inches and eating a pie

― OH MY GOD HE'S OOGLY (DJP), Monday, August 19, 2013 4:40 PM (16 minutes ago) Bookmark Flag Post Permalink

naw man you look beautiful in this jacket trust me

this looks interesting: http://mrnednyc.com/

opt-3 for a £ on a us mac keyboard iirc

cv, a lot of the hk tailors will do 'tours' in the US where you go to a hotel, they take yer measurements, and mail you a suit 4 months later

you used to find out about those guys in the UK from their adverts in the financial times

this guy was on anthony bourdain's show - looks like he's coming to nyc soon http://simpsonsintailor.com.hk/travel_itinerary

i dont think there is like an official difference between blazer, sportcoat and suit jacket

lol thread of missing gabbneb

w/o doing any google detective work the two main differences btw a suit jacket and a blazer are the cut of the jacket and the weight of the cloth? and then sportscoats are just like tacky blazers iirc/not worn for yachting

ok tossing HK tailor in the list of possibilities too

disagree with that.

the "sport" in sportscoat is shooting, so they're more often brown or melange, more often heavyweight, and i think necessarily single breasted

"A blazer is similar to a sports coat, and is tailored from solid color or striped fabrics. Blazers are often made with metal buttons reflecting their origins in the sport of boating, though this is not necessarily a defining feature. Blazers also often have patch pockets, unlike other kinds of coats.[2][3]"

the "sport" in sportscoat is shooting, so they're more often brown or melange, more often heavyweight, and i think necessarily single breasted

a lot of plaid more colourful plaid type pieces seem to be called sportscoats too.

yeah, plaid too. in the uk generally patterns/brown/melange/check = country, and country = sports

no brown in town

once heard an oxford professor pronounce that brown suits are for shooting or working in indian restaurants

dang

oxford not paying the bills eh

yeah there are "typical" differences but not An Official Way To Tell Which Is Which

blazer is heavier, usually more uniform-y, i.e. metal buttons; sportcoat is the least formal, wackier fabrics/patterns allowed; suit jacket is the jacket from an actual suit and has a corresponding pair of pants