i love style needs to get their hair did

Are you doing it with the short, cuffed sleeves??

I honestly think for a wedding (even a second one!) the loveliest thing would be a satin with lots of body, something a little heavier than you might think, to give the collar enough shape not to slump and to make the wings on the cuffed sleeves really stand out.

But that's not really wearable to work the week after, I guess. Boo.

OR I'd be tempted to go the opposite route and have it be peek-a-boo. Use a stiff backing fabric for the skirt, the collar, the sleeve cuffs, and make the rest of the bodice out of, like, practically see-through dotted swiss. Wear a long-line bra/corset underneath and let that be your half-visible underlayer!

Aren't I helpful?

Also, for the day, I'd replace self-fabric sash with a tailored belt in white satin or patent of some color. More formal that way.

Are you married to that pattern? What about this re-release from the Vogue archives?

http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/V1043.jpg

Or

http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/V2401.jpg?

Also, I'm not suggesting this pattern specifically but one of the things that makes this dress look really elegant and elevates the appearance of quality (or even Quality) is the RIDICULOUSLY deep hem. It's like 18"! But it gives the hemline extra body, extra stiffness, and shows a positively entitled disregard for overuse of materials, which is what it's all about, right? But seriously, this stuff adds up. Small seam allowances and shallow hems are hallmarks of mass-produced clothing that skins the profitability of each item right down to the bone.

http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Add_2_Full/V1044.jpg

Even a 6" hem would do.

Who's making this dress, anyway?

If I can suggest something: Have the seamstress move the zipper from the center back to the left sideseam, and ask for a NON-INVISIBLE, totally regular metal-toothed zipper with a LAPPED zipper.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oJYRTW7d_A

Lapped closure, I mean.

Moving the zipper away from the center back means that if you choose a pattern, the pattern won't BREAK across the center seam. The sewer could take the time to match the pattern across the center seam, but matching patterns is hard and takes extra fabric, whereas moving the zip to the sideseam is reasonably not that difficult and takes very little extra fabric. Esp since people will presumably be looking at your back kind of extensively!!

I used to read a lot of Threads magazine.

I bought a groupon for 6 introductory sewing classes today and I can't wait until* I can make these patterns you're linking to, Laurel.

*I know it won't be immediately after the class, but a girl's gotta start somewhere!

The Vintage Vogue line is really genius. I don't know who curates it/decides what to re-release but it's always classy shit.

And actually a lot of it isn't that technically difficult.

Why the non invisible zipper? Just the visible zipper trend?

No, no. You won't actually see a lapped zipper at all, the longer seam allowance in the lapped side covers it. It's an older style, from the couture days of hand-sewing, actually. And non-invisible zippers are stronger than invis ones, too, and less likely to weaken in the zipper tapes and start to stick at the pressure points, of which waistband are maybe the most pronounced.

Actually, if you want to be really couture, the visible outer seam created by the lapped zipper should be hand-sewn in embroidery thread, because the fact that it slightly shows is actually evidence of its being hand-made.

Oh good, because I don't care for the visible zipper trend and I was a little disappointed (and surprised) that you would advocate it in a classic dress style. I am sorry I ever doubted you, Laurel. I should have known better.

Ahahaha. I've outed myself as a total sewing nerd/snob here, and I'm not even a very GOOD sewer! But I have, myself, moved a zipper from the center back seam to a side seam (to do this, you then re-draft the pattern for the 2 back pieces as one piece, and cut it as such), and re-set the zipper to lap from the front, and hand-sewn it into place, and that's the brown-and-white dress I was wearing in that photo the other week. All based on one article in an issue of Threads from like 15 years ago.

ffm, if you want to get a real leg up on your sewing course, I do strongly suggest Threads as the most serious sewing resource out there.

(I'm sorry, Jenny, but I do actually LIKE the visible zipper! But only in modern garments where it's matched by other modern/industrial design elements, not in ones of a more graceful vintage.)

Like this one, for instance:

http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/V1150.jpg

ooh i want a dress like that

So do I, apparently, since I bought the pattern! Haven't made it yet, though.

I think visible zippers are one of those things that are going to look terrible to us all the microsecond the trend passes, but that's just me. Laurel, I was more concerned that you might advocate such in a vintage garment, not that you like it in the appropriate setting. That black dress is very cute. Except for the zipper. :p

Did I just unironically use an emoticon? I think I did. Huh.

I think exterior zippers will be with us always! I have multiple dresses from the '60s that use them, some of them even have extra brightly colored plastic zippers to stand out more. I wouldn't call them "elegant", but they're reasonably attractive sportswear/day dresses. One of them has approx a 22" waist so I haven't been able to wear it for a few years, but I hang onto it in everlasting hope, nonetheless.

Laurel, you are a seamstress goddess!

I did consider the Vogue reissues you posted; the one I like best is the first one, but it looks better in the drawing than in the real-life picture. Hang on, lemme find it.

http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Add_2_Small_Thumb/V2401.jpg

oh shit too small

http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Add_2_Full/V2401.jpg

hmmm, yeah - I's chop a few inches off the sleeves and the length, heh.

I's! Oh, my typing is going downhill.

I like a wider/deeper V; show a little clavicle, y'know? The shirtdress style really suits me--mr. husband calls them "Kate Dresses" and is now adept at calling them out when he sees them in a shop window or department store.

I think you are totally right and I should go for more of an evening fabric (satin or the like). I can bust it out again for holiday parties in December. Weather permitting, we'll be out in the back yard for the actual event, so the longer sleeves in View B are what I'm thinking.

No idea yet who is going to make this thing. My mom is an outstanding seamstress and would totally do it (she's retired), but she lives far away and I don't feel like we could pull it off without fittings. There is a seamstress here who reworked an off-the-rack dress for me for my brother's rehearsal dinner and did a great job; thinking I'll go to her.

Finefine I am very excited for you and hope you have a fabulous, fabulous time (I don't doubt that you will)! You will be an absolutely stunning bride! Srsly cannot wait to see pics.

OK, back to hair, then?

I need to find the right sort of hair band so I can try that no heat retro curls thing. Sounds like a trip to Sally's Beauty Supply is in order.

I'm p sure you could get stretchy Goody headbands at yr local drugstore, but beauty supply places are always fun.

I scored a pack of 5 or 6 stretchy headbands at Sally's for a buck ninety nine. Downside (or upshot?): some are pink and purple, and they are all SPARKLY

tza will take the purple ones.

will totally set her up

laurel is right.
my, i have just spent an hour looking at fascinators and i am overwhelmed. sigh.

I need to find the right sort of hair band so I can try that no heat retro curls thing

I have tried this, and it works ok! I have wavy/curly hair, though, so I think that helps hold the curl. And I did it with damp hair.

I have wavy hair that holds curl OK with help from products, so I have high hopes!

I am going to try this tonight I think even though my hair is bob length now. I am predicting it is going to look crazy 80s crimped.

I am on one week of using bar soap shampoo from chagrin valley. I probably should be doing the vinegar rinse after, but that is too much trouble. So far I think I won't go back to regular shampoo.

Is there a sewing thread? I want Laurel to talk more about sewing techniques. I am in the middle of trying to decide on a new machine to purchase.

Yerac! Yay! I hope the shampoo works out.

I've never done a vinegar rinse, btw. I just use the shampoo bars like regular shampoo.

Do you condition after with regular conditioner? I have been doing this. I got like 6 different samples, trying to figure out which ones I like the best.