VANCOUVER for Beginners

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Myself and the lovely Leanski* are leaving London in October to travel west around the world for 3 years.

First stop is Andalucia in southern Spain, just to flush out any remaining London. Then we head to Vancouver (BC) for 4 or 5 weeks in November, after which we'll drive down to Mexico and then onwards and westwards until June 2008.

While there's no guidebook like an ILX guidebook, there seems to be little about Vancouver on these boards, and most of those tips seem to be about food. I've managed to cobble just this (very useful) lot together:

• Gyoza King or Guu with Garlic for sushi
• Sushi Garden in Burnaby for big nigiri
• Don't go to the Naam - lousy and overrated
• Bo Kong on Main at 23rd for Buddhist vegetarian
• Most places on the Drive are vegetarian too
• The Irish Heather in Gastown – they import their Guinness from Ireland
• Penny Cantonese on Hastings and Lakewood for Chinese (open until 2-3am)
• The brewery on the downtown shore
• The islands north of Vancouver - temperate rainforest, great animals and seas
• Commercial Drive for Italian coffee, fresh fruit and vegetables, restaurants, nice atmosphere (if a little hippy)
• Hon's restaurant on Robson is great
• Kitsalano Beach
• Kits in general - 4th avenue, Granville Island, etc.
• Bus out to Lighthouse Park in West Van - it's beautiful
• Broadway and Granville area is good for galleries and restaurants
• Banana Leaf on Broadway near Oak is a great Malaysian place
• Commercial Drive, Mount Pleasant, South main - good artsy areas


Therefore can anyone else help steer us with any other wise tips on museums, markets, galleries, buildings, record shops, streets, bars, clubs, gigs, FAPs, parties, events, oddities, islands, parks, mountains, walks, hikes etc.

AND most importantly, places to stay – good hostels, B&Bs etc? Even better, does anyone know of any rooms in apartments or houseshares that might be available for all or part of the month of November?

As always, all advice very much taken to heart and hugely appreciated.

Huey (Huey), Monday, 5 September 2005 11:14 (fourteen years ago) link

Perhaps 'Couverians (or 'Couverphiles) are more awake now!

Huey (Huey), Monday, 5 September 2005 15:02 (fourteen years ago) link

What do you want to do in Vancouver.

LeCoq ia the party in the box, yo.

No one mentioned Stanley Park????

Also, don't stay at the crack hostel on Pender. ooo my gawd!!!

donut Get Behind Me Carbon Dioxide (donut), Monday, 5 September 2005 15:23 (fourteen years ago) link

What do you want to do in Vancouver.

Just want to hang out. See stuff. Learn stuff. To immerse ourselves totally in the place for a few weeks until we don't recognise our old selves. The usual.

Huey (Huey), Monday, 5 September 2005 15:29 (fourteen years ago) link

The Museum of Anthropology over at UBC is stunning - you can get a bus from downtown which goes past Granville Island (the market there is excellent) and through Kits.

Aquabus over to Granville Island and the other waterbus thing over to North Vancouver is worth using, too.

Have a great time!

thr (thr), Monday, 5 September 2005 17:00 (fourteen years ago) link

The drive up 99 into the mountains is beautiful, especially the first hour when you hug the water. Also, a ferry ride from Horse Shoe Bay - the trip to Nanimo on Vancouver Island (how is that really spelled?) is a nice ride. Twice when I was on that ferry, I saw orcas swimming past. The ferry captain will announce "orcas swimming off the port side" when they see them and everyone rushes to look.

I like the Yaletown sea wall in Vancouver- that's my favorite walk with my dog when we're up there. Free wifi coffeeshops so that you can post to ILX: http://vancouver.wifimug.org/

lyra (lyra), Monday, 5 September 2005 17:02 (fourteen years ago) link

Nice ideas - thanks, and any more info about free wifi joints very useful too. I also love the idea of hugging water.

What about good places to stay?

Huey (Huey), Monday, 5 September 2005 21:08 (fourteen years ago) link

I'm from Vancouver (though in Mtl for the past 3 years) so I feel I must share some Vancouver knowledge! It's a nice town but (cue cynicism) culturally/politically is kind of overshadowed by its natural beauty. I mean, you kinda have to a bit blown away by that (not hard) but also make your own fun (not the most hoppin' night life but it does exist). Those are some good food recommendations at the top - Vancouver is packed with good, inexpensive restaurants, omg (Banana Leaf! My mouth is watering. Sushi! Everywhere! Go to Tama (I think? am having memory glitch on the name), upstairs on north side of Broadway, west of Granville, sort of across from the Chapters, etc.)

I'll second a walk down the drive (and the good coffee (cafe roma esp), cheap produce and chill restaurants); a walk around Main and Broadway and up to Main & 28th or so (and if you need a haircut, go to Jen at the Beehive!); Kits (4th ave and the beach); Stanley Park and seawall, 2nd beach (there's a pool there, but it might be closed by the time you're there), English Bay. Queen Elizabeth park is also really nice and has a good view of the city and mountains - it's at Cambie & 28th or about. Granville Island market is nice too - go to Lee's Donuts! Proper doughnuts, I'm telling you. There's also a good fudge place, some good places to eat, lots of nick-nacky things, lots of produce, bread, flowers and places to sit outdoors and in.

Take the skytrain (skytrain!) from Broadway to downtown to sort of see the lay of the land (if you want to see a big huge mall, go to Metrotown in Burnaby.) Oh, you can also go out to Lougheed Mall and take a bus up to SFU/Burnaby Mtn (a good view and also a lot of tv shows us it as, like, FBI headquarters, for instance). Also, go up to Grouse Mtn (it's not free, but the view is good - you could hike up if you're in good shape). Go to Lighthouse Park - there's a bus from downtown on Georgia that will take you very close. If you ski/snowboard, the local mountains may (but prob not) have snow by late November, but you could go up the 99 to Whistler/Blackcomb, which is awesome and beautiful.

Go to Victoria for the ferry ride and cuteness (you can just take public transit if you're on a budget or the comfy bus from downtown/bus station to downtown if you have a bit more to spend) - from there you can also go to some gulf islands, like Pender, Saltspring, etc. Nanaimo isn't as picturesque but is a nice ferry ride and you can go from there to islands like Hornby (very nice) or even to Tofino (there's a van service called Tofino Bus that is cheap and fast - and lots of nice cabins/b&b's on the beach.) Also, from Horseshoe Bay (the same place you get the ferry to Nanaimo), you can go for a day trip to Bowen Island or go up to the Sunshine Coast. (For some of these you may need to rent a car.)

Record stores: Scratch (downtown on Richards, south of Georgia) and Zulu (in Kits on 4th, west of Burrard) are both cool and have show listings/tickets.

And, by November it's probably (okay, definitely) going to be pretty rainy, like all-day rain sometimes. (haha, so if you want a new (goretex) raincoat or outdoor gear, go to Mtn Equip Co-op on Broadway east of Cambie.)

As far as places to stay, since you're going to be there a while, I'd recommend not staying downtown - it's expensive and noisy - or downtown eastside - yeah, it's cheap, but, er, discomforting. And I wouldn't recommend the International youth hostel b/c it's way out past kits beach. Check the Vancouver Sun online for sublets - or craigslist or even university off-campus housing listings (UBC&SFU)?j

Okay, that's my wordy advice on a lazy Labour Day!

rrrobyn (rrrobyn), Monday, 5 September 2005 21:24 (fourteen years ago) link

3 years??? wow

phil-two (phil-two), Monday, 5 September 2005 21:31 (fourteen years ago) link

Yeah, your own list and everything rrrobyn said, pretty much (I'll second the Irish Heather in Gastown, in particular).

November is indeed the monsoon season (we don't have all these stately rainforests without a downside), and Vancouverites are well accustomed to doing everything (indoors, outdoors, whatever) in the rain for quite a large bit of the year.

For clubs/live music, see here. Or check out the Georgia Straight.

I don't post a great deal here, but if you add any more specific questions to this thread, I'll try to get back to it now and again and address them.

David A. (Davant), Monday, 5 September 2005 21:57 (fourteen years ago) link

rrrobyn, your enthusiasm for your city is infectious. ILXors are always pariticularly brilliant at painting pictures of places they love.

David A, those are great links, thanks. We'll prepare ourselves for the weather. (As a child I was led to believe that a monsoon was a variety of tall moose). I'll keep this thread open for more specific questions / drunken rants etc.

phil-two, it's actually more like 2 years 9 months (or more specifically exactly 1000 days). We're quite open to the idea of never returning, however (though oddly I'm missing Walthamstow already)

Huey (Huey), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 05:19 (fourteen years ago) link

useless gallery list:

the vag
big one downtown, beautiful old bank, free thursdays, naughty pun potential.

the emily carr school
underneath the granville bridge, near granville market, good student stuff.

tracey lawerence
first right after the bridge, back of the postmodern steel and glass building, private space, usually supplies kasel, etc

bau xi
four blocks down granville proper. (south granville is good art tours anyways)

the vancouver contemparary art center
email me for the proper address, really good, adventrous, and conceptual peices. (downtown)

the two new artist run spaces on the corner of hastings and main
gentrfied slum. (email me for the name), but the one on the west side of the street, has one small central room, and really really good shows, and small projects.

their are others i can give you a list.

also worth saying
fag village on davies.
little sisters
sophia books
the art book store across the street from the big chapters on granville.
lonsdale quay
old china town
the venus theater
the sea bus
new lebanon on north van.
the modernist apartments towards beach street
the pool near beach street
stanley park
the skyscrapers near the maritime building
the maritime buidling
others im missing

email me


anthony easton (anthony), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 05:30 (fourteen years ago) link

and if you go to UBC, not only check out the Anthropology musuem (which is astonishing) but the Miriam Birkham contemparay center, wreck beach, and the formal english garden

anthony easton (anthony), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 05:33 (fourteen years ago) link

fuck, im tempted just to go.

anthony easton (anthony), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 05:36 (fourteen years ago) link

  • The worst thing about Vancouver is arriving with the intention of getting pissed and discovering that beer is expensive, off-licences are practically nonexistant, and drinking establishments are subject to bizarre and convoluted licensing laws.

  • I really like the area around Main Street. It's homey. A few good bites to eat here too.

  • At first I liked The Naam, but now I think it's the macrobiotic equivalent of Denny's. Who the hell wants alfalfa and beets on everything? The food tastes unwashed, to be honest. Try the miso gravy, though.

  • Get your hepatitis vaccination.

  • Visit Victoria. Witness the city that seethes with poorly-restrained aggression -- for no particular reason. Don't be fooled by the tour guide descriptions -- Victoria is one giant meth lab and as strip mall-ridden as any other Canadian city. But holy shit is the ferry ride over ever nice. It's like a vacation in miniature.

  • fields of salmon (fieldsofsalmon), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 05:45 (fourteen years ago) link

    half of victoria is anarachist crusties bored with another small town and half is a superrepressive fuck you anger.

    anthony easton (anthony), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 06:52 (fourteen years ago) link

    Fuck me, this is getting exciting. "Superrepressive fuck you anger", "poorly-restrained aggression" and "giant meth labs" are always de rigeur for the Brit abroad. Hep A+B combination jab booked, arms to take day off work.

    Anthony, I've e-mailed you - sterling work, thanks.

    Huey (Huey), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 07:04 (fourteen years ago) link

    Oh shit, cinemas, how could I forget cinemas? Flea pits, grand theatres, open airs, drive-ins, hovels, sheds, underground - any kinds of cinema?

    Huey (Huey), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 07:05 (fourteen years ago) link

    For movies I was partial to the 2 for 1 showings at the Hollywood down in Kits. It used to be $4.50, except for Mondays which were $3, but things may have changed in the five years I've lived away. The building used to be an honest to goodness theatre too, and they had pretty delicious and cheap carrot cake with cream cheese icing for intermissions.

    Fifth Avenue Cinemas are usually playing the good new movies.

    There are many good restaurants in Vancouver. I don't think the Naam is overrated and their miso gravy is fantastic. I've eaten at Kalamata on Broadway often and enjoyed it every time. I think there is an even more consistent selection of restaurants to be had in Victoria: Hernandez (Mexican), Baan Thai (Thai), Futaba (Japanese), and the Blue Fox (breakfast) are all varying degrees of culinary delightfulness.

    If you go to Victoria, trek out to the University one night and see a movie at Cinecenta too.

    Alexander (Alexander Buckiewicz-Smith), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 08:06 (fourteen years ago) link

    I hear there's a cheap picture house on Stanley street, 3 movies for around $4 - apparently "inside there is like all this aluminium foil on the walls and there is a guy in a spacesuit hanging down somewhere, very cool on a rainy day in Vancouver". Is this true?

    Huey (Huey), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 09:13 (fourteen years ago) link

    That joint closed about 5 years ago. It's a nightclub now.

    everything, Tuesday, 6 September 2005 14:36 (fourteen years ago) link

    Is the spaceman still there?

    Huey (Huey), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 14:42 (fourteen years ago) link

    No.

    The Irish Heather doesn't get any love from me. It's a standard Irish Bar in the tourist district. However there are good bars downtown. The Railway Club on Dunsmuir St, The Marine Club on Homer St, Lamplighter on Water St, all have excellent live music, decent prices and a good atmosphere. Most of the ones on Granville are totally heinous and should be avoided at all costs. A famous Vancouver haunt is the Cambie Hotel. This is just round the corner from the "pot" block where you can procure and consume BC's most valuable resource at leisure.

    Good cheap things to do:

    Walk around the sea-wall at dawn (it's too busy later on). Comedy night at El Cocal on Commercial Drive on Wednesdays ($3 for about 8 comics). Wreck Beach, the clothing optional hangout is essential if the weather is at all clement.

    Listen to CITR 101.9FM while you are there. It's the university station and is easily the best thing on the air.

    everything, Tuesday, 6 September 2005 15:54 (fourteen years ago) link

    So Huey you found a nice couple to take your lovely flat ok then?

    Sociah T Azzahole (blueski), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 15:55 (fourteen years ago) link

    Yes I have Steve, thanks - and very lurvly people they are too. I'm going to be managing it myself, which should be interesting when the fridge explodes while we're halfway up the amazon river.

    Huey (Huey), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 16:47 (fourteen years ago) link

    Clearly a month in the city is not going to be enough to fit all this in. Craigslist tip very useful, a fantastic site. Any areas we should avoid renting in?

    Huey (Huey), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 16:47 (fourteen years ago) link

    Anywhere east of Nanaimo St or south of 30th. Too far away. Chinatown area is pretty grotty so I'd avoid it. The best cheap neighbourhoods are Main St, Strathcona, Commercial Drive. Near the skytrain station is good for transportation and also rent seems to be cheaper there. Anywhere within 4 blocks of the Commercial/Broadway Station is cheap and cheerful.

    everything, Tuesday, 6 September 2005 16:54 (fourteen years ago) link

    Hearing opinions on Victoria is weird. I only hear the extremes... "Oh, it's just so 'quaint' and snooty and boring" vs. "OMG all the crusties and meth kids.. that place is SUPER scary."... It's a complacent and gorgeous medium in between. It's a fabulous weekend escape surely. But I can't really think of much else to do after two or three days there. Personally, I don't think anyone has anything to fear walking the streets at night. Car theft, on the other hand, sure... then again, there's no reason to really have a car in Victoria if you're just visiting, as the city is very walkable.

    I have family there. It's really just a cozy, rather conservative town with a very visible and vocal minority of street kids.

    The Parliament building in Victoria is easily the best capitol building in North America... It's stunning. Some may say it's gaudy, but I love the look of the Christmas lights all over the building at night. (I say this without having visited D.F, Mexico or any country south of it, granted.)

    For the record geeks... interestingly enough, Goldie Records moved from Vancouver to Victoria over the past year or so. Almost all the records there used are the ones they used to play at the Luv Affair, which was the bar for many a scene of The X-Files. I kinda wish that place was still around.. we need more clubs with chain link fences. More clubs today that are wanting to get all nostalgic should follow the example of Club Berlin from the movie After Hours. Anyway, I found lots of great stuff at Goldie. Ditch Records is great for it's small size. A&B is alright, although it jut doesn't compare to Zulu, Scratch, Beat Street, or Active Pass in Vancouver. Lyle's is a great place to find really cheap CDs where you're likely to find that one $100-on-eBay find for $3 or so.

    donut Get Behind Me Carbon Dioxide (donut), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 17:12 (fourteen years ago) link

    Also, even though the restaurant name sounds bland, Green Cuisine in Victoria is possibly the best all-vegan restaurant in the world. It's a pay-by-weight style thing. I think the price is $1.80CAN per 100 grams... the big thick fries are separate. In any case, a nice huge plate of food that will stuff you for a day runs around $13-14CAN? (Probably around 6 pounds)

    donut Get Behind Me Carbon Dioxide (donut), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 17:15 (fourteen years ago) link

    oh damn. $1.43 per 100 grams! YOU GO!

    donut Get Behind Me Carbon Dioxide (donut), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 17:16 (fourteen years ago) link

    Yeah, that's a good guide re: places to stay. And even West of, say, Macdonald is a bit too far too (b/c you'll only be there a month and why waste precious time on public transit?) Strathcona is cool, but a lot of people I know who live there (and don't have an alarm) have had their house or car broken into, but that can happen near Commercial and I guess pretty much everywhere in any city anyway, so... The West End (btwn downtown and Stanley Park) is also quite nice, though more expensive and more densely populated. Good luck with finding a place!

    rrrobyn (rrrobyn), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 17:27 (fourteen years ago) link

    haha, Luv Affair and its chainlink fence... Kind of perfect for everything - 80s night to metal to goth, it really does look like a quintessential bar/club. I didn't know it closed!

    If you go to Victoria (and have drivers licences), rent scooters! (or just bikes!) You can ride around on the road next to the beach from downtown and all the way to the university. I went to UVic - I spent a lot of time riding my bike and studying/working and really liked (but not loved) it. The town is slow, quiet and very pretty. As with any town like that, there's gotta be some creepiness under the surface - but as a tourist (and a Londoner), you'll barely see it.

    rrrobyn (rrrobyn), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 17:40 (fourteen years ago) link

    Victoria has lots of witches, one of the profs at U Vic was a male witch (not warlock), as does Geneva, who knew. That's apparently why there are so many "alternative" types. It's an important global centre of energy, or something.

    -for a real Chinese market scene, the Richmond Night Market has been recommended to me by locals. Richmond is the "new Chinatown"
    - take the bus from Commercial Ave up Burnaby Mtn to Simon Fraser University campus for great views and strangely exhilarating brutalist modern architecture
    - Whytecliff Pk is another really pretty West Van park like Lighthouse and has some fantastic benches where you can sit with smoke-of-choice and watch the ferries go by
    - if the snow's on the mountains by then, go toboganning up Cypress Mtn. (there's a bus and you can rent toboggans, I think) My family used to do that every Xmas Day and it's too much fun. More nice views, of course
    - make the effort to walk down to Wreck Beach from the Museum of Anth. It'll be empty in Nov and gorgeous, even in the rain
    - go to Long Beach/Tofino and Ucluelet, on Vancouver Island for friendly beach towns and amazing beach and rainforest walks
    - good south asian dhosa places on Kingsway and there's one modern Indian place on a side-street east off of South Granville that has a cheaper lunch-type attachment that's really great but I forget the name
    - try Georgia Straight newspaper online for houseshares

    Thea (Thea), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 18:07 (fourteen years ago) link

    Allegedly Aleister Crowley lived in Victoria at the dawn of the century (at that time Victoria was actually bigger than Vancouver). There is also reputed link to Freemasonry -- why do so many Victoria buildings have the Freemason symbol on?

    As with any town like that, there's gotta be some creepiness under the surface - but as a tourist (and a Londoner), you'll barely see it.

    So very true. I keep forgetting these folks are coming from London. In that case, may I add VANCOUVER HAS NO PROBLEMS PLEASE STAY FOR THE OLYMPICS, INNIT.

    Back to Vancouver:

    The Sha Lin Noodle House is very nice.

    (Also I second the recommendation of The Railway Club upthread.)

    fields of salmon (fieldsofsalmon), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 18:20 (fourteen years ago) link

    i didnt get it, try again?

    anthony easton (anthony), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 18:29 (fourteen years ago) link

    Second what everyone said above. It's a really wonerful place and public transport is amazing it's a model of what it should be everywhere. About $5.00 buys you a ticket on all transports for the day (including the sea-bus) and you can get anywhere that you want to go. There is a place (I think it's deep in Stanley park) where you hike up and up and come to a deep deep icy cold pool which is so fun to jump into after hot hike.

    Nobody mentioned the beautiful Bouchart Gardens on Victoria nor the really fun coaster sled thingy on Grouse Mt. Gas town has good eats.

    Salt spring Island is wonderful to explore and canoe around and has a quint little town with some pretty good food and local entertainment.

    Have a fun and safe trip.

    Wiggy (Wiggy), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 18:41 (fourteen years ago) link

    Re the Aleister Crowley thing. He visited Vancouver in 1905 to climb some mountains in the Coastal Range. I don't have a copy of "Confessions" to hand but he didn't like it much, complaining that it is "dull and Scotch" or something like that. He didn't like the mountains either, so there.

    everything, Tuesday, 6 September 2005 18:56 (fourteen years ago) link

    Gotcha. Thanks for the clarification.

    fields of salmon (fieldsofsalmon), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 19:09 (fourteen years ago) link

    Sadly, Pho Bich N'ga have changed their name :(

    donut Get Behind Me Carbon Dioxide (donut), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 19:36 (fourteen years ago) link

    As has Fuk Hing International (Importers).

    everything, Tuesday, 6 September 2005 19:42 (fourteen years ago) link

    Guu rules for cheaper Japanese Tapas.

    I prefer staying in the Hyatt Regency Burnaby outside the city and taking the train in. Its usually not all that tough to get a room there on Priceline for under $50, parking isn't too expensive, and the station is a 5 minute walk. Plus, if you get there early enough for checkin, they clean top down, so the only rooms available are on the executive levels (which gives you access to the lounge on the top floor, plus the oh so cool keycard only accessable levels on the elevator). There's also an asian market downstairs, where I was able to buy some cool toys and eat cheap breakfasts of pineapple rolls and Goya every morning (and a karaoke bar at night).

    Playland Park, the one amusement park in Vancouver, is kinda dumpy, but the wood roller coaster there is top shelf. Unappreciated ride by the general public, but has a huge reputation in coaster enthusiast circles, with some fear that it may not be long for this world (as Playland prepares to move to a larger lot elsewhere in the city).

    Alan Conceicao (Alan Conceicao), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 19:58 (fourteen years ago) link

    Thanks to all the contributors here, I'll post some reviews of the recommendations as and when we visit them.

    Any more tips or places to stay, or particularly forthcoming events / clubs / gigs in November please also let us know here.

    This thread is so incredible: I can't believe there isn't an I Love Travel board.

    Huey (Huey), Wednesday, 7 September 2005 08:27 (fourteen years ago) link

    About $5.00 buys you a ticket on all transports for the day (including the sea-bus) and you can get anywhere that you want to go.

    That's actually $8CAN now for an all day trip... which is still a deal compared to paying $2.25CAN for a 90 minute transfer. (Seattle has weekday $5US all day passes, $2.50US on the weekends.. maybe that was the source of the confusion?)

    But true, at least between early morning and midnightish you can go anywhere within concentrated greater Vancouver -- even North Van and West Van... bus, Skytrain, SeaBus, etc.

    AFTER that, you'll have to take a cab though... but no big deal there. I imagine a neighborhood-to-neighborhood cab ride costs $10-12CAN?

    donut Get Behind Me Carbon Dioxide (donut), Wednesday, 7 September 2005 21:46 (fourteen years ago) link

    Translink is your friend:

    http://www.translink.bc.ca/

    donut Get Behind Me Carbon Dioxide (donut), Wednesday, 7 September 2005 21:47 (fourteen years ago) link

    You know, I will very likely be in Vancouver in November.

    VANFAP!!

    I wanna hearre LeCoq say that out loud, goddamit!

    donut Get Behind Me Carbon Dioxide (donut), Wednesday, 7 September 2005 21:50 (fourteen years ago) link

    Also, I gotta rep here. If you're in Vancouver for 4 to 5 weeks, hopefully you can spare a couple of days for a train ride down to Seattle and back. (By bus it's only 3 hours, by train, 4 hours) FAPpage opportunities will be very likely then too.

    donut Get Behind Me Carbon Dioxide (donut), Wednesday, 7 September 2005 21:52 (fourteen years ago) link

    donut, some fine transportation advice - translink is indeed my friend. A Vanfap is such a fine idea.

    After Vancouver we're driving through the States for a month (or two) down to Mexico and Guatemala, so we'll be coming through Seattle, Portland, San Francisco, LA, Vegas, Tucson etc anyway, so perhaps even a FAT* or FAC** would be on the cards.

    (* Fancy A Thanksgiving)
    (** Fancy A Christmas)

    Huey (Huey), Thursday, 8 September 2005 06:36 (fourteen years ago) link

    six months pass...
    The new Vinyl Records on the pot block of West Hastings has quickly established itself as the best place for used vinyl in Vancouver. Not budget priced or anything, but a good selection of every genre. The owner, David Love Jones does a REALLY good show on Friday evening on CITR by the way - funk, disco, african stuff.

    everything, Wednesday, 29 March 2006 20:47 (thirteen years ago) link

    you mean THAT pot block of West Hastings... oh :)

    (You mean the same block as Beat Street?)

    Yoo Doo Nut (donut), Wednesday, 29 March 2006 22:07 (thirteen years ago) link

    you should stay near or at UBC/Jericho Beach/Kits area and eat at Aphrodite Cafe on 4th at least once. you must have a piece of pie.

    don't even bother crossing the bridge to the downtown core. everything you need is in Kits. take Broadway over to Main and head south a bit. more goodness awaits you there.

    brotherlovesdub, Thursday, 12 June 2008 22:23 (eleven years ago) link

    Convenience.

    If cost isn't a consideration, stay in lower downtown near Granville Island. So that, just in case, you need to rush back to the airport or what have you, you don't miss you chance on the not-so-frequent little twirling ferryboats.

    However, if you're very sure you know the ferry schedule between Granville Island and Crescent Cir(?) or whatever that little street is with the pimped out penthouses at the bottom of Richards St., then just stay on Granville Island.

    Mackro Mackro, Thursday, 12 June 2008 22:28 (eleven years ago) link

    Note that I generally don't eat before 8
    Good thing, since you might not get a table to Vij's before 10 or 11.

    kate78, Thursday, 12 June 2008 22:46 (eleven years ago) link

    wouldn't it be inconvenient to try to get back from those places to Denman/Davie-ish after 11? how easy would it be to catch a cab?

    what's Fairview Slopes like?

    gabbneb, Friday, 13 June 2008 03:11 (eleven years ago) link

    You can call for a cab in Vancouver, just like in Seattle and Portland. Different number obviously, but ask any bartender or waiter/waitress.

    Worse comes to worse, the walk back on the Granville bridge isn't impossible from north Kits/south end of False Creek, and neither would the Cambie bridge walk. And then Davie St. would just be another 3 blocks xtra. No hills either. (FOR PHIL!) A slight climb going west on Davie but that's it.

    Mackro Mackro, Friday, 13 June 2008 08:00 (eleven years ago) link

    one year passes...

    who's got a great apt. for under $1000/mth coming open in early fall?

    ― Huk-L (Huk-L), Tuesday, 27 June 2006 17:03 (3 years ago)

    dylannn, Friday, 14 August 2009 17:54 (ten years ago) link

    will keep an eye out. seems to be lots of 1 br apts available right now.

    there's a better way to browse (Dr. Superman), Saturday, 15 August 2009 16:53 (ten years ago) link

    vancouver apt-hunting tip: don't use craigslist unless you enjoy cattle calls. Try the classifieds in the newspapers, because then you eliminate as competition all the people too cheap to invest $1 in their housing search.

    there's a better way to browse (Dr. Superman), Saturday, 15 August 2009 16:54 (ten years ago) link

    ^^^ OTM 4 any city in the world tbh

    (*゚ー゚)θ L(。・_・)   °~ヾ(・ε・ *) (Steve Shasta), Saturday, 15 August 2009 17:06 (ten years ago) link

    not necessarily!

    i should read this thread. my friend recently moved to vancouver so now i have an excuse to travel there once i'm making some money!!

    tehresa, Saturday, 15 August 2009 17:07 (ten years ago) link

    flipside is that yr more likely to find apts run by vast property management conglomerates in the newspaper leaning toward the more expensive side of rentals. Use both.
    Also, walk around neighbourhoods you want to live and look for "For rent" signs. That's how we found our current sweet-ass only-slighty-too-expensive pad.

    there's a better way to browse (Dr. Superman), Saturday, 15 August 2009 17:17 (ten years ago) link

    i just like craigslist for the sheer volume. but, yeah, feel you on that. i'm going to look at a place at 15 and blenheim this week, for $950. when i say i want to live in point grey or kits, everyone i know in vancouver says i'm crazy and i should move to richmond.

    i kinda resent the no out-of-towners vibe in vancouver apartment ads-- sometimes it's not so much a vibe as someone specifically stating, "no out-of-towners." i don't really want to give people an employment reference or get a credit check or sign a one year lease, either. fuckin vancouver.

    dylannn, Saturday, 15 August 2009 17:54 (ten years ago) link

    those are not things you have to do normally???

    how do they figure out how to approve people for apartments?

    tehresa, Saturday, 15 August 2009 17:55 (ten years ago) link

    i am exposing myself as backwards and provincial. where i come from, we shake hands, sign a hastily prepared contract.

    dylannn, Saturday, 15 August 2009 18:06 (ten years ago) link

    the crucial problem is that i don't have any credit and or a real job!

    dylannn, Saturday, 15 August 2009 18:08 (ten years ago) link

    in my experience, most of the places that ask for CRAZY info never get back to you. Or maybe that's just because I refused to give out my SIN to any old property-owning creep. Dream big, there are good, reasonable places in every neighbourhood, but it can take a lot of legwork to find and secure them. But also, be open.
    There's no reason to live in Richmond (tho now there's a train).
    Have seen lots of FOR RENT signs on buildings between Oak and Granville between Broadway and 16th, which is sorta my hood, which I love. Close to Kits & Granville Island, easy access to downtown, UBC, lotsa nice heritage-y buildings.

    there's a better way to browse (Dr. Superman), Saturday, 15 August 2009 18:13 (ten years ago) link

    thanks for the information and everything. (dr. superman, just read ur canlit piece in pd).

    i've found lots of places! just gotta go see them. i've rented apartments in cities bigger than lil vancouver, and honestly never experienced a credit check as part of an apartment rental. still think that's some kinda bullshit.

    dylannn, Saturday, 15 August 2009 18:23 (ten years ago) link

    it ran this ish? aw geez, I shoulda made a better effort to find a copy before I left on Thursday.

    Credit checks are total bullshit. With vacancy rates what they traditionally are in this town, though, I guess they can get away with it.

    there's a better way to browse (Dr. Superman), Saturday, 15 August 2009 18:31 (ten years ago) link

    yeah, our landlords be some ass-gougin' motherfuckers. but kits is awesome to live in, forget the east van snobbery. (point grey otoh is pretty boring, but hey close to wreck)

    jerk store (hmmmm), Saturday, 15 August 2009 19:34 (ten years ago) link

    Vancouver-proper is small enough geographically that as long as you have a bike, you're fine.

    there's a better way to browse (Dr. Superman), Saturday, 15 August 2009 19:46 (ten years ago) link

    got a 1 bdrm suite @ trimble / west 1st ave, $1000 util includ, month-to-month rent, am going to be broke but watch sunset from locarno beach everynight.

    dylannn, Sunday, 16 August 2009 18:40 (ten years ago) link

    getting around vancouver by bike sounds very annoying!

    The Cursed Return of the Dastardly Thermo Thinwall, Sunday, 16 August 2009 19:10 (ten years ago) link

    NB: It's very easy and common to combine bike & transit, ie, Sometimes I "ride" my bike to the Sunshine Coast (ride, bus, bus, ferry, bus, ride; rince, repeat)

    there's a better way to browse (Dr. Superman), Sunday, 16 August 2009 19:43 (ten years ago) link

    two weeks pass...

    places i like in vancouver so far (food):

    王哥牛肉面 -- on cambie, around 41st, across from the mall (j2 shoes has a good sale on, got some pf flyers for $14), seats like 10 people, best beef noodles in the world, choose between 红烧 hongshao or 麻辣 mala and thin or wide noodles. not greasy at all and just spicy enough and the beef is in big chunks and falling apart but not too falling apart and it's got pickled mustard greens inside so it's just a bit sour. fucking good. they got some other little dishes, too... like, a little thing of 蒜泥白肉 suanni bairou for like 2 bucks.

    barefoot kitchen -- 1725 davie street, yoshoku... my friend took me here. it's like, "japanese-style western food" but that doesn't really fully explain it. it's like the food the kid in earthbound would eat, if that explains it.

    和平饭店 -- #110-532 west broadway went there just for 凉皮儿 COLD SKIN NOODLES gross, cause i think it's the only place you can get them in vancouver (wrong?). it's got good central chinese style noodles dishes.

    dylannn, Friday, 4 September 2009 23:55 (ten years ago) link

    one month passes...

    hey vancouver,
    i am so excited to come to your city, but i've got here and it is a monstrosity. i hastily arranged some accommodation and i guess i picked wrong; if anyone can tell me areas or even better places to stay, i'd be real appreciative and would no doubt re-write my snap judgement of your city. i'm roaming and broke so hostels/options that aren't in this downtown mess much appreciated x.

    peter falk's panther burns (schlump), Sunday, 4 October 2009 07:33 (ten years ago) link

    Are you downtown-downtown or Downtown Eastside-downtown? I don't know shit around hostels, sorry.

    there's a better way to browse (Dr. Superman), Sunday, 4 October 2009 15:34 (ten years ago) link

    i am ... downtown like, granville-homer-nelson streets. it's like this cordoned off bullpen of neon bullrings and drinking holes. i'm going to go roam around and find like a park and something nice to see for a while but i'm still generally terrified. i'll work it out. any expertise about things to do appreciated anyhow; i dug your lists upthread (or on whichever thread they were on).

    peter falk's panther burns (schlump), Sunday, 4 October 2009 16:41 (ten years ago) link

    don't worry vancouver, everything's cool, it turns out your city was beautiful all along

    peter falk's panther burns (schlump), Monday, 5 October 2009 00:36 (ten years ago) link

    was actually around homer/nelson this morning, with work. looked for you, but I don't know what you look like. So I figured I probably saw you.

    there's a better way to browse (Dr. Superman), Monday, 5 October 2009 02:25 (ten years ago) link

    go stay at Jericho Beach at the Hostel there. it's a great place to be, nice walking trails, close to UBC and the 4th Ave. shopping area. The weather should be nice this week so go walk the beaches.

    brotherlovesdub, Monday, 5 October 2009 02:38 (ten years ago) link

    yeah that bit of granville is no fun at all but it's easy to get away! take the SkyTrain in either direction, go to the West End or Kits or UBC or Commercial drive or Main Street or anywhere else.

    derrrick, Monday, 5 October 2009 06:23 (ten years ago) link

    re: apartments again. why is everyone horrified when i say i'm moving to richmond? is the canada line ----->>> 99 bline commute to ubc that horrifying? my neighbor was even like, "one day, that thing [canada line] is going to break down, mark my words, i would hate to be stuck over there. i even hate going there," etc.

    cons: commute will change from 10 minutes to ~45 minutes, won't be able to see ocean, walk to jericho beach, play in tidal pools.

    pros: i kinda hate the whole vibe of 4th avenue, fair trade thai handicraft stores and new age bookshops and ubc fratboys and everyone has a porsche, and it's a fucking terrible, terrible place that sums up everything that sucks about vancouver. when i escape from that weird fourth ave/broadway corridor and get downtown or go to richmond, or even burnaby, i love the city. i mean, fucking love richmond, cheap food and good food (best food in canada is in richmond [and burnaby]), lots of pretty girls, good grocery stores (t&t and yaohan and lots of smaller places), good chinese bookstores (三联 in the aberdeen mall which has lots of hk shit, bought an hk published version of feidu on the weekend, and the one under superstore [the only entrance is from the superstore parking garage and it smells like car exhaust but], you can get pick up caijing magazine there or buy softcore porn), i know tons of people that live in richmond and i don't know anybody that lives on fucking dunbar street, CRUCIAL: MY RENT WILL BE $400 CHEAPER, MY RENT WILL BE $400 CHEAPER, MY RENT WILL BE $400 CHEAPER. right across from parker place mall, right beside a canada line stop.

    dylannn, Sunday, 11 October 2009 20:43 (ten years ago) link

    dude who cares if they're horrified, that's their problem. you seem to be pretty stoked on the idea of being in Richmond, it's affordable, and you know people there. give it a try and if it turns out it's as awful as everyone else seems to think it is, you can use all the $$ you've saved to move back to some other place that's more Vancouver-based.

    they can't let any lines break down until after the Olympics, anyway. right?

    salsa shark, Sunday, 11 October 2009 21:22 (ten years ago) link

    i know i know, right, i'll let them be horrified. but i was just wondering what was at the root of it all, you know? richmond->van transit links are pretty good, i think. i'd hate to have to drive there everyday.

    dylannn, Sunday, 11 October 2009 21:50 (ten years ago) link

    two years pass...

    Coworker just asked if Vancouver is east or west of us (in Toronto). We were all shocked, so we asked her 'is Calgary east or west of us?' and she said west. And then we explained Vancouver is west of Calgary. Then she asked to clarify 'so does that make Vancouver east or west of us'

    I don't know whether to hit her or hug her. She furthered clarified that she 'knows it's north of us' and when we kept laughing, she said she meant British Columbia, not just Vancouver. 0_0

    she started dancing to that (Finefinemusic), Tuesday, 24 January 2012 20:43 (seven years ago) link

    seven years pass...

    hello! i'm visiting Vancouver (B.C.) for the first time next summer and am interested in seeing some shows.

    what are the best venues in the city (or region, if need be)? big to small, punk to classical, mom & pop to Local Bank Group Amphitheater ... all are welcome.

    thanks!

    alpine static, Sunday, 1 December 2019 18:44 (one week ago) link

    Best venue for 5 local scene bands doing 20 mins sets is Red Gate imo.

    Lana Lous for 2 local bands playing for too long. Nice room.

    Pats Pub have credible punk and jazz bills but otherwise the bands are hit and miss.

    Best mid-sized venue for popular tourung bands is the Biltmore.

    everything, Sunday, 1 December 2019 20:31 (one week ago) link

    Pat's seems to have shitty bridge and tunnel metal bands playing half the time,or it did before I stopped going there to watch hockey because they would try and make me pay to see the shitty langley metal band that was going to play.

    I like the biltmore ok,the rickshaw is fine (and close to me)

    #FBPIRA (jim in vancouver), Sunday, 1 December 2019 21:04 (one week ago) link

    punk: black lab

    flopson, Sunday, 1 December 2019 21:50 (one week ago) link

    toast collective my personal fav venue

    flopson, Sunday, 1 December 2019 22:25 (one week ago) link

    Toast is great except it has no stage, no sound system, no lights, nowhere to sit down & the worst toilets and bar ever.

    everything, Monday, 2 December 2019 05:20 (one week ago) link

    other than that!

    alpine static, Monday, 2 December 2019 06:26 (one week ago) link

    it’s an underground venue *shrugs*

    flopson, Monday, 2 December 2019 09:11 (one week ago) link

    where are u seeing noise shows that has any of those things

    flopson, Monday, 2 December 2019 09:12 (one week ago) link

    the toilet at 333 was the worst in the city (rip)

    #FBPIRA (jim in vancouver), Monday, 2 December 2019 17:25 (one week ago) link

    so Red Gate, Lana Lous, Pat's Pub, Biltmore, Rickshaw, Black Lab, Toast

    these all sound like indoor venues to me ... any killer outdoor spots that regularly have music (even if summer/good weather only)?

    what's the best music festival or two in town?

    alpine static, Monday, 2 December 2019 23:48 (one week ago) link

    there are some shows at the malkin bowl in stanley park in the summer. there are also shows in the suburbs in dear lake park in burnaby sometimes. i don't think there's any festival of interest in the greater vancouver area if you mean the big outdoor thing. there's a really awful looking thing called FVDED In The Park which takes place in surrey (another suburb)

    #FBPIRA (jim in vancouver), Tuesday, 3 December 2019 00:07 (one week ago) link

    The two outdoor music fests which come to mind are Khatsalano in July, and Victory Square in September. Both free. There are others - mostly local events. Eg. There are decent bands on car free days on main St. Not sure what the schedule is next year.That big fest in Stanley park (sasquatch?) is coming back next year. And the folk fest is a great time but pricey. Kinda worth it though.

    everything, Tuesday, 3 December 2019 03:11 (one week ago) link

    Oh yeah folk fest

    #FBPIRA (jim in vancouver), Tuesday, 3 December 2019 03:30 (one week ago) link

    Xxxpost I wasnt too serious about the Toast. Very happy it exists but they could hugely improve things for the audience and the performers without much effort.

    everything, Tuesday, 3 December 2019 04:14 (one week ago) link


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