Perfume / Cologne

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So what kind do you wear? Do you wear any? Is it pricey? Cheap? What's it smell like, because really just saying the name generally isn't enough. Are any of you allergic to perfume / cologne? What do you think about people wearing it? What about on men, classic or dud?

(Question prompted by TWO perfume related experiences this weekend, weirdest being man who followed me around Food Emporium working up the nerve to ask what kind I wore)

Ally, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

I wear the Gauiter fragrance with the male torso.

anthony, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

What's that smell like?

Ally, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

St. Etienne

Mitch Lastnamewithheld, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

I used to use cologne now and again for very fancy occasions -- can't recall *what* I used, it was that long ago. These days I simply trust the work of a good shower and effective underarm deodorant.

Ned Raggett, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

Dud: relying on supermarket deodorant/antiperspirant to do all the odor-bearing work. This is a poor habit of indie boys, though preferable to no deodorant at all.

Benjamin, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

I wear Fracas. It comes in a black bottle. It smells like tuberose and gardenia and something else. I used to wear Joy, which smells like jasmine and tuberose. I might switch back to that. I plan to go to Sephora pretty soon and go through all their perfumes and decide on a new signature scent.

Sometimes when I feel like being a moron I wear Skin Musk, that stuff is tops.

Ally, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

I don't wear any, just deodorant.

Ally C, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

My signature scent for a long time was Fahrenheit, which smelled like pine. Lately I've taken to wearing a Perry Ellis scent that smells like generic cologne. Sob.

Dan Perry, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

sticky stuff under arms = dud. I like my smell.

tracer Hand, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

Bod, the green one. Every single time I wear it I get compliments, girls come up and take big wiffs. At first, I thought they were being sarcastic and then I realized that it smells like Isey Miaki (or however you spell it). At $7 per huge bottle, it's a much better deal than it's fancy Asian counterpart. I also wear some blue shit from Bath & Body that is similarly fruity. I like fruity scents. Spicey or musky are disgusty. My girlfriend wears Happy a lot and Green Tea (I think?). Yummy.

Nude Spock, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

Unfortunately, tracer, your idea is mainstream in subway life. Everyone seems to be pleased with their reeking ass selves on the subway.

Nude Spock, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

In elementary school I tried to be cool by bringing one of those sample vials of cologne into the coat room, but I dropped it and it broke and stank out the joint, not to mention my arm for the next 24 hours. Perry Ellis still makes me get all misty-eyed.

Dave M., Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

There are always Demeter's colognes. Laid-off "new media" girls in New York seem to have a fondness for the "Dirt" smell. But if I smell like Gin and Tonic or some other Demeter fragrance, it is because I have spilled my drink down the front of my shirt.

Benjamin, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

I too wear the Gaulthier cologne with the naked man with the huge package. It used to make my ex very, um, aroused. But my european housemates bought me a bottle of Emporio Armani from the duty free store. I wish they had gotten me cigarettes instead.

Phil-Two, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

Note to Tracer: Similar feelings about sticky armpits have caused me to become addicted to anti-perspirants.

Dan Perry, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

spock - yet I am unbothered because I am protected by my own impermeable force-field of earthy sweat. Fight fire with fire!

I have heard that people in Germany hold body odor in much higher regard (aphrodisically speaking) than us scrub-crazy Americans. I don't think UKers feel the same way, but it sure seems like it ;)

Tracer Hand, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

I almost bought some Dirt - I'd been putting it off, and when I went back to the store to buy it, I felt it was a little sweet for my taste. The tangerine one was nice. I'm sticking with Song de Chine (a green tea fragrance), and after my bottle is empty, I'm going for a citrus. I like to mix the green tea with the citrus or a rose scent. I hate spicy or excessive floral scents. I also like Rain oil, but that's a little played out now, I guess.

Kerry, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

Demeter annoys me - I mean, why would you want to smell like Dirt? Or Gin & Tonic? Or Tomatoes??? I don't get it. Their sweet ones are nice for trying to be all innocent every once and a while, like there's one that smells all carmelly, I forget what it is called but it's nice enough.

I like Smell This for cheap stupid novelty scent. Beach Smells = great.

Ally, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

Used to have Eau D'Issey Miyake. Now I use what my granny gives me. Can't remember what it is though. Oh yeah occasionally use Anais Anais.

nathalie, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

A bottle of Tommy I stole from my brother. Or a CK1 one rip off from Target. Both I've recently grown tired of, and am looking for a switch. Most men's cologne's are really gross, too musky. I tend to go for the perfumey types.

The odd thing is when you are standing in an elevator or such, and you notice some stranger smells like an ex-girlfriend.

bnw, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

Bought bottle of semi-expensive YSL Kouros in duty free shop two or more years ago when loaded (in all senses). Still a few splashes left. What happened to the great smell of Brut?

Andrew L, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

My problem is that I wear things that are way too expensive. I was sitting there in that stupid movie this weekend smelling my wrist, going, hey, this isn't strong enough for costing $90. I have to go find something strong enough to be worth that cash, although apparently it's stronger than I thought.

Ally, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

I wear a number of perfumes/colognes but my favourites are: Eternity, 5th Avenue and 2 I can't find anymore... :( Somewhere and Wishing( Avon) Gale

Gale, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

If my nose comes within ten feet of Tommy, I feel like vomiting. Sensory trigger reaction from 2nd college roommate (for more information, see 'Strange Wiggling').

matthew, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

Nothing...I usually don't like perfume. I like flowery scents, though. The real reason is that I am too cheap to spend money on accessories, be it perfume or hair ties or makeup. $10 for perfume when I could get a book? Really, people. Deodorant and shampoo.

Lyra, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

Old Spice. Grown up man's smell.

DavidM, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

Sort of masculine but in a femme kind of way. citrus, greenry and a touch of floral

anthony, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

I don't go for aftershave, I just have nice-smelling deodorant, currently Lynk Gravity (I think).

DG, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

sorry, LYNX.

DG, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

I have a zinc deficiency and that urban legend lactose intolerance, which means I've had almost no sense of smell my whole life, and for that reason any smells which I can perceive are pretty disagreeable to me, especially artificial odors. Manure smells better to me than perfume / cologne.

Otis Wheeler, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

Has cologne become "in" again, or am I just now noticing more guys wearing cologne than before?

Tadeusz Suchodolski, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

I *hate* the smell of perfume and am incredibly glad Isabel doesn't wear it (she's allergic - I think she'd quite like to wear it). It all just smells so ghastly and inhuman - ugh. Being on a tube with someone with strong perfume on is the absolute worst form of public transport sense pollution I know, bar someone actually taking a shit on the tube floor.

Tom, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

Also, surely perfume was invented and became fashionable when it was really really difficult for people to take regular baths. It is now in the 1st world at least not difficult for people to take regular baths i.e. perfume is now completely unneccessary and using it is the equivalent of still using a horse and bloody cart.

Tom, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

Tom you have reminded me of the hilarious joke Q. Why do girls wear makeup and perfume A. Because they are ugly and they smell.

I don't wear it on a daily basis but sometimes if I'm going out. Then it's Eau D'Issey or Dune. I used to wear Spellbound and lots of men would comment favourably on it. Why did I stop?

Emma, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

I don't wear any, just deodorant.

Ally C - Lynx Africa does not count as deodorant as it has no anti-perspirant qualities. It's a body spray = perfume = you are a girl.

I like perfume (and girls) so that's not meant as an insult. I'm wearing Farenheit today, which is nice but doesn't seem to last very well. Sometimes I wear Cool Water and sometimes I sip into my CK selection pack.

Nick, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

um, ckone

gareth, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

I theoretically agree with Tom as reasonably clean humans usually smell great and covering it up seems daft. However, some musky perfumes (I'd recognise them, but I don't know their names) do send me into a deep lustful swoon.

I do use an antiperspirant myself but that's because I'm a sweaty bastard.

Richard Tunnicliffe, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

You sip perfume Nick? Why not just try breath freshener?

Emma, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

At the moment Héritage by Guerlain or on sunny days Allure by Chanel. After I finish those I'm going to change again, I'm thinking Vetiver by Guerlain and that Helmut Lang eau de toillete if I can ever find a bottle in this godforsaken city.

In general I trust Guerlain and Chanel.

Omar, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

Today it's Hugo Boss, but I've also got Bvlgari (a bit lemony, not too sure about it), contradiction, xs and boss elements aqua. I love the smell of perfume and aftershave, mind you I do get some funny looks when I ask people what that lovely aftershave they're wearing is. But nothing floral, destroy:anais anais, the smell of creeping death and funerals.

cabbage, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

perfume and cologne are both disgusting. they make me gag. they all smell so damn artificial and in many cases like solvents and some people SERIOUSLY overdo it. a clean-person-smell is so much nicer and is actually pretty damn attractive.

lady die, Thursday, 23 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

The trick with perfume is to only apply enough so you can smell it when you get close. Unfortunately, this is difficult to achieve as most perfumes either fade quickly or smell very strong for the first couple of hours.

I am currently rotating between Fendi, Trussardi Light, CK Truth, Green Tea, Happy, a freebee phial from Zara and a bottle of stuff from River Island I got for Christmas (work days only).

Madchen, Thursday, 23 August 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

one month passes...
I wear Angel now. Everyone likes it, but vaguely irritatingly, Ramon prefers Skin Musk, which I used to wear, which costs $8 in the kiddie perfume section of Duane Reade. Why am I spending any money at all? I'm a big moron.

Ally, Tuesday, 16 October 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

I think Angel has chocolate in it. I wear Comptoir Sud Pacifique's Motu, but it's a summery fragrance and the bottle's almost empty so I'm looking for something else next. They have a new one, Coeur de Raisin. I tried it, it's grape, lilly and jasmine, about $50 for a small bottle, I guess that's a moderate price. The Jo Malone Honeysuckle + Jasmine I bought only attracted bees, it's still more than half full.

Lesley Higgins, Tuesday, 16 October 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

I think my favourite is H2O+'s Green Tea but I don't have it - somehow got Elizabeth Arden's Green Tea instead which smells pretty darned good too and is especially nice if you use just a tiny bit but of the actual cologne but beforehand you shower with the gel and use their moisturizer and also if you use a green tea scented shampoo and conditioner - leaves just a very subtle scent but then you've got it *everywhere*. I don't have a signature scent though as I have about ten different ones on the go at any given time. I love cool oceany or airy smelling ones for everyday. Still, sometimes nothing beats something as basic as a fresh shampoo and a bit of baby powder.

On the boy I'm 'liking' this new one that's oh so obliquely called Sexual. It's like, ok YOU, bedroom NOW!

Kim, Tuesday, 16 October 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

Kiehl's. Cucumber. Body. Wash.

better shower regularly tho, or you'll turn into a pickle!

Tracer Hand, Tuesday, 16 October 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

Comptor has some nice stuff if you just want really subtle. Except for that goddamned Vanille line they have, which smells like you've just rolled around for 8 hours in cookie dough and then gone out, and is disgusting.

Ally, Wednesday, 17 October 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

What an excellent question. I'm still mourning discontinuation of Donna Karan's Chaos - although I saw a bottle for $150 in a rare perfume shop I didn't bite. I'm trying to find a replacement because it's spicy and musky and everyone else likes it on me too. I'm one of these people who cannot bear to have the same perfume as any friends. but as I used to wear the Issey Miyake one, Diorissimo, Joseph and the men's Escape I'm not normally a musk person. If you like real ho's bedroom stuff go for Chaumade by Guerlain.

Suitable replacements for the Chaos are either the Comme des Garcons red or Corso Como 1010 and I will get one of these on my next trip to Liberty, or when a fashion friend goes through Milanese duty free. Whichever comes first.

suzy, Wednesday, 17 October 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

You know what's good? Thierry Mugler's new mens cologne. If I could afford to buy such things right now I'd get it, it smells delish.

Nicole, Wednesday, 17 October 2001 00:00 (seventeen years ago) Permalink

dark rebel is totally a daddy scent, but too polite to be really skanky. i was hoping for more smokiness from reading the notes -- i get pleasant church incense, resins, car leather and powdery tonka

clouds, Sunday, 22 April 2018 13:58 (nine months ago) Permalink

do you mean dark rebel or dark rebel rider? dark rebel has a castoreum note but it's very slight, more of a suggestion than a dominating presence.

slugbuggy, Thursday, 26 April 2018 22:50 (nine months ago) Permalink

i got dark rebel rider in the interim between this and my previous post. i didn't mean to, but i had to go out and there was a marshalls and they had a bottle of this and now i have it. it's not in macy's or whatnot anymore so i hadn't smelled it yet and blind bought it.

i agree with both the hoping for more and pleasant remarks -- it could be smokier but that could be a bit too much for the target demographic, not that i think that's a bad thing. per the name it's dark and dangerous, but like, about as dark and dangerous as the cult's electric, which was metal that got played between songs by new order and the sugarcubes, who were probably more so dark and dangerous in a different way. it's tempered-badass, like the bad boy or manic girl you're hoping won't behave according to the attributes that made you attracted to them in the fiest place and this time they don't, which is great, because you can just spray them on and wear them for daily use without worrying if they're not suitable for office use or general social occasions whereas a girlfriend or boyfriend like midnight in paris might get wasted and act out in front of your boss.

slugbuggy, Friday, 27 April 2018 04:14 (nine months ago) Permalink

varvatos is generally regarded as having poor longevity and this one seems to be in line with that. the regular dark rebel sample i had seemed to project longer; the rider comes and goes. off the skin i'm now getting the cacao; it's not as deep as the l'instant de guerlain (the ockham's razor of elegance! meaning, any more elegance would be superfluous, which by definition is inelegant!) but it gives the rider a tasteful dry sweetness where normally in a designer there'd be way too much vanilla, i'm sick of too much vanilla.

slugbuggy, Friday, 27 April 2018 04:52 (nine months ago) Permalink

actually at this point in the drydown i'm reminded of kokorico, if only for the cacao, patchouli, and cedar. remember when i said kokorico smelled like what people who live inside david lynch movies smell like? that was a great line. where do i go to get my royalty check. this phase of drr is like the normal world version of that, except i can't smell it in the air ambiently, just on skin because apparently varvatos sells mostly to young people who think it's declasse if your scent passes the boundry of liminality and is detetable in the least. boo. boo varvatos. boo john varvatos. boo varvatos. boo.

i sprayed more on. yay varvatos.

nb i'm off tomorrow; it's ok i had a few and did the bourbonated review thing.

slugbuggy, Friday, 27 April 2018 05:11 (nine months ago) Permalink

i think my sample of jpg kokorico went off because no mainstream fragrance could be that strange, but then again i don't think so. such a weirdo scent for a mainstream house, which is weird in itself because gaultier as a presence is too weird but his fragrance house is not. i was in a speedway gas station and the burly construction worker in line in front of me getting his morning bitter, flavorless coffee was wearing le male and it reminded me of all the times he got laid in the 90s and i was like, get some, dude, and this is in rust-belt ohio so that's how outre gaultier is. when i look at conceptual art i assume it's a comment on and a reaction against whatever else was going on in the art world just a moment ago that i'm not clued in on, and i get it, that's kokorico, it's a negative presence, it's not for you, it's for the person next to you who gets it, but you want to be them, so it's for you so you can be them, and the same for them, they don't get it either.

slugbuggy, Friday, 27 April 2018 06:27 (nine months ago) Permalink

nb the other person in the latter scenario is an artsy thin person looking at the conceptual art piece, not the burly construction worker in line getting coffeein the previous scenatio, although there's no real world reason they couldn't be the same person, except they never are. one is le male and the other is kokorico.

slugbuggy, Friday, 27 April 2018 06:39 (nine months ago) Permalink

I’m wearing Aqualis Origin today and it has seen me through some office meetings from hell. Initially seems like a dialled-down, much less opulent and luxurious, take on the same rose / patchouli theme as Le Mat but it has its own charm as the vanilla and jasmine come through. It’s doesn’t have the enveloping, warm-blanket / cashemere sweater effect but it doesn’t cost $300 either.

I have a decant of another Mendittorosa fragrance - Sogno Reale - and it’s a puzzle, flitting between an extremely high-quality amber and a weird rum and iodine/sea salt. It’s intensely relaxing.

I ended up not buying anything in the UAE as the local brands that looked interesting (Hind Al Oud) etc, were fiercely expensive but I’m going to Turkey tomorrow so will keep an eye out for interesting rose fragrances.

Very enthusiastic about this month’s sample set from Bloom as well.

Wag1 Shree Rajneesh (ShariVari), Friday, 27 April 2018 19:40 (nine months ago) Permalink

four weeks pass...

those all seem beyond my ken so i can't comment. grossmith seems irretrievably rooted in archaic sensibilities, when i hear the name i think of the old-lady-scruchface from the bbc documentary. some of their offerings are original kfc recipe; some, including golden chypre, from what i read on the internets, are modern creations from a nose who is still alive. did you like it? i need to smell mitsouko because i need to, and gc gets compared to mitsouko extract.

lavs unum, how do you like it?

in downmarket news, i went into a banana repubublic to see if they had any casual linen or linen-blend shirts on sale. they did. i tried their new icon collection of fragrances and they weren't half-bad, which means they were also about half-bad. i got the 78 vintage green. i was going to get a guerlain homme l'eau boisee sample but this has a strong green note that works for me, tea and general green leaf and some bergamot and vetiver. the 06 black platinum has some stinky jasmine and patchouli, and the 17 oud mosaic has good enough funky oud and rose notes. i was surprised they'd let out some stank a bit considering their demographic. the cypress cedar and linen vetiver i thought were ok. the cypress cedar has some orangey, pink peppery top notes, and a vaguely woody base, so for a lot less you could replicate the new dior homme sport, with its blood orange and sandlewood. i mean, i think these are a pastiche of high-end designer or low-end niche, but dior and ysl and chanel are going wide, sauvage edp and y and another allure flanker, br is aiming high, and not getting there, but making gestures in that direction, which is something. i mean, when i'm in macy's and sniffing things all i get is accords, like generally sweet or citrus-fresh or powdery-fresh or powdery-sweet or spicy-sweet or whatnot; the icon series seemed primarily note-based, like i could make a half-decent guess at how the individual notes composed the resultant structure.

the first time i was there getting a shirt the young gentleman in attendance was more than willing to discuss the vaguaries and specifics of perfumery. as per usual i told him everything i had read off the internet and we agreed that br was doing god's work in the world. when i went back to get the 78 vintage green the young lady just coughed a lot when i was spraying test strips and didn't defer to my awesome backstock of knowledge. she asked me for my email and i assured her br still had it since i was getting a half-dozen sales updates a day.

in conclusion and in summary, br's new shit is pretty ok, in that you can skip the mall stuff because this is better, but if you want better, this is still not too bad for the price, unless price isn't an issue, in which case just ignore this because it's a lower-level approximation of what you were getting anyway.

slugbuggy, Friday, 25 May 2018 07:14 (eight months ago) Permalink

really, though, the 78 vintage green isn't horrible, i like it about as much or more than the lalique white or diptyque philosykos, and about 80% as much as hermes' un jardin sur la nil which is all-conference honors, or tom ford grey vetiver, which is green af but also kinda straitlaced office-manager starched-shirt kind of thing.

slugbuggy, Friday, 25 May 2018 07:54 (eight months ago) Permalink

Grossmith is absolutely old-lady-scrunchface but kind of fits with the Luca Turin quip along the lines of smart guys raid their grandmothers’ fragrances rather than their dad’s. Golden Chypre is good but tbh I find most expensive chypres redundant when I have Mitsouko, Habit Rouge, L’Heure Bleue, etc.

LAVS is nice but not an absolute knockout. I think I prefer Opus 1144, which is a big, gothic amber by the same house.

Wag1 Shree Rajneesh (ShariVari), Friday, 25 May 2018 07:57 (eight months ago) Permalink

(small voice) I really want to like mitsouko since it is the kid of thing I would like but it just 100% disappears on me and I don't know if I just keep buying watered-down fakes or bad reformulations or what

aloha darkness my old friend (katherine), Friday, 25 May 2018 14:48 (eight months ago) Permalink

(today I'm wearing delrae's bois de paradise which is kind of nice, maybe like something by serge lutens except with fresh rather than strong fruit)

aloha darkness my old friend (katherine), Friday, 25 May 2018 14:51 (eight months ago) Permalink

three weeks pass...

azzaro chrome is the ne plus ultra of normcore scents. i don't know what to do with this information, but i'm assured of its veracity. natural's not in it. dare to be stupid.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 16 June 2018 06:24 (eight months ago) Permalink

and by that, i don't mean chrome is the best normal or mainstream scent (fahrenheit!), i mean it best embodies the early-mid teens normcore aesthetic, whatever the hell that was supposed to be. high-waisted jeans, nike golf caps, 90s nautica or hilfiger t-shirts, new balance running shoes, that sort of thing. whenever joey is onscreen during a friends episode, that's chrome. yahoo chat rooms smell like chrome.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 23 June 2018 05:37 (seven months ago) Permalink

I realise when you write that I have no idea what normcore 2010 fragrances would smell like.

Wag1 Shree Rajneesh (ShariVari), Saturday, 23 June 2018 05:43 (seven months ago) Permalink

got my partner fathom v by beaufort and we both love it -- heavy notes of flower stems, white florals, oceanic salt-laden air and wet earth

clouds, Saturday, 23 June 2018 17:58 (seven months ago) Permalink

Excellent. Yes, it’s wonderful.

Wag1 Shree Rajneesh (ShariVari), Saturday, 23 June 2018 17:59 (seven months ago) Permalink

Interesting samples this month but probably wasted in 28 degree heat.

Wag1 Shree Rajneesh (ShariVari), Wednesday, 27 June 2018 17:18 (seven months ago) Permalink

I realise when you write that I have no idea what normcore 2010 fragrances would smell like.

depends on what you mean by normcore, if you mean normcore mainstream probably like Flowerbomb or something, if you mean mainstream niche probably like molecule 01

aloha darkness my old friend (katherine), Wednesday, 27 June 2018 17:25 (seven months ago) Permalink

All my Christmases have come at once:

The Kindle edition of Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez’ new perfume guide is out. Paperback to follow shortly. 1200 new fragrances from the decade since they wrote the original guide.

Wag1 Shree Rajneesh (ShariVari), Thursday, 28 June 2018 05:32 (seven months ago) Permalink

nuclear take

I got a sample of Guerlain's Jicky, the oldest perfume still in production (1889), and every time I raise my wrist to my face a new and even more horrible thing happens.

— Dr Sex Dracula, M.D. (@dubsteppenwolf) July 6, 2018

aloha darkness my old friend (katherine), Friday, 6 July 2018 20:38 (seven months ago) Permalink

It had never occurred to me how cats would respond to vintage civet fragrances until reading that thread. I can’t think of many things I’d like to smell of less in hot weather.

Wag1 Shree Rajneesh (ShariVari), Friday, 6 July 2018 20:48 (seven months ago) Permalink

one month passes...

i got some things from online because i was bored.

first, aubusson homme. it's a little reminiscent of drakkar noir, but updated for the 90s. if drakkar is too dated for your tastes, try aubusson homme. the old-school guys say it's a good replacement for their beloved, late great balinciaga pour homme, but i don't know what that is. aubusson has a good juniper note and some fir which are things i like; it's half lol-90s i'm wearing and old thing and half i actually dig this.

second, guerlain homme l'eau boisee. guerlain homme l'eau is a flanker of guerlain homme, and guerlain homme l'eau boisee is a flanker of that flanker. the guerlain homme was a bit too boozy with the rum note but this one dials that down and is appreciably woodier/ vetiverier as per the name but the refreshing lime and mint are less pronounced. maybe i'll try layering them together and see if i can achieve a perfect ratio of this to that. anyway, it's a solid fragrance for a mature man of serious intent, who handles his business and brooks no frivolity. not as grassy as promoted, but nothing ever is. i'm on a mission. if i had a time machine i'd forego the killing baby hitler thing and just go back to 1995 and buy a buttload of gap grass.

third, i got carolina herrera chic. i blind bought because on sale and certain reviewers i used to trust who lead me to believe it's one of those hidden gems type of thing. like when you hear a really poppy unknown band and you think in an alternate universe they'd be a huge hit, that's what this was supposed to be. i'm as dumb as they come but i at least expect a fragrance to pass the spray it on and put yer nose to yer wrist test, in which you get decent note separation and it doessn't smell like chernobyl. this is only good if i forget about it and then get ambient whiffs on occasion, in which i can detect the fresh watermelon, contrasted with the spicy cardamom, pepper, and cinnamon, and hints of suede. it's one of those friggin magic-eye things that you used to see at the museum store in the mall that you could never focus in on. a good designer should POP!, not dick around and never achieve like it was tarrence trent d'arby. things that are similar in the fresh spicy mainstream category that get to it are ferragamo puor homme and ken\zo jungle.

also, my brother got samples and they're all ok but the standout is hermes rocabar. this shit is too good to be from a prestige house like hermes. if it were from a populist house like gucci or dolce and gabbana this would be the king of the world. sell your car and use the proceeds top buy all the bottles of this.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 11 August 2018 07:49 (six months ago) Permalink

also the answer to 2010s normcore is dior sauvage.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 11 August 2018 07:49 (six months ago) Permalink

so far this summer have been wearing etat libre d'orange cologne (fresh, bright neroli and jasmine), mitsouko edt and aramis

clouds, Sunday, 12 August 2018 16:08 (six months ago) Permalink

Eau de Cartier is my default in hot, humid weather. Of which we have a lot.

mom tossed in kimchee (quincie), Sunday, 12 August 2018 16:22 (six months ago) Permalink

one month passes...

it's friday night, i'm full of maker's mark, and i've got nothin' new to go on about.

i sprayed on some of my brother's terre d'hermes and it's pretty good, as far as designers go. but hermes isn't a real designer, because i attribute cultural valence as integral to that calculus, and, while i admit we've crossed that rubicon where there is no more such a thing as a monoculture that collectively the sportos, motorheads, geeks, sluts, bloods, wastoids, dweebies, and dickheads all recognize and draw from, it behooves me to say that all these constituencies necessarily must come together to form a consensus in order to bestow hosannas and laurel wreaths upon deserving corporate offerings. where is the love for hermes? however you look it's clear to see that i love you more than you love me. if hermes loved me as much as i loved hermes, there'd be hermes logo t-shirts rocked by all the aidens and olivias all across the suburbican landscape. there is not that. terre d'hermes should be today's polo green, but that spot goes to dior sauvage, or maybe bleu de chanel, which is ok, but not really. i don't mind terre d'hermes coming here, and wasting all my time, because it's just what i needed, yeah, yeah. i feel like i went through this with rocabar. i don't particularly hate sauvage and invictus or one million, but they're all frosting and no cake. the grabbing hands grab all they can, but there's nothing to grab for. it's a competitive world; everything counts in large amounts. just sayin' tdh is pretty mainstream as far as it smells, but not nearly enough to matter as far as it sells.
i just wish that there was stuff that was both populist and zeitgeisty but also defensible.

fahrenheit! that was some shit. if michael hutchence even glanced sideways at you, it smelled like fahrenheit. terre d'hermes wants to emulate that but its tie is knotted too tight and it can't effect that louche and dissolute air. but it's dependable and will chop firewood for a romantic after-dinner wine-and-conversation moment by the fireplace so that's pretty good.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 22 September 2018 07:52 (four months ago) Permalink

Hermes’ cache come from the perceived exclusivity of its world - from handbags to soft furnishing to horse bridles. It’s only the fragrances that are accessible. People rave about Twilly - which I should probably try again. I have a Russian drugstore dupe of Terre d’Hermes called Koldun, which smells close enough for $8.

I got a bottle of Idole by Lubin a while back. It smells like an upscale bar cocktail based on Kola Kubes. It’s good but fades incredibly fast, though hopefully will come more into its own as the weather gets colder.

I have been wearing Saint Julep by Imaginary Authors, which is a fairly literal sugary mint julep - thin but pleasant.

Io Non Ho Mani Che Mi Accarezzino Il Volto by UNUM has been my favourite new thing to wear, though not to remember how to spell, recently. It has cinnamon, incense and sage and smells like it could be used to cleanse cursed houses of their demons.

Zoologist has a new one out next week by the guy who runs Bogue Profumo, called T-Rex, which the perfume place I go let me try at the start of the month. First impressions were positive. Lots of champaca.

Wag1 Shree Rajneesh (ShariVari), Saturday, 22 September 2018 09:56 (four months ago) Permalink

I will say I have a soft spot for Hermes’ absurd eighties dusty-rose oriental Rouge, which is overpowering in ‘Eau Delicat’ formulation and could probably bring down an elephant at perfume strength. I just dug out an old bottle of Hiris as well, and it’s pretty lovely.

I’ve not been enormously impressed by recent Hermes stuff but the older fragrances, or older formulas, were good.

Wag1 Shree Rajneesh (ShariVari), Saturday, 22 September 2018 10:30 (four months ago) Permalink

I know I only ever appear on this thread to say "Miller Harris" but I treated myself to some of her Vetiver Insolent this week and it's a joy.

My "go to", work day "regime" is Musgo Real Cologne - no. 1 Orange Amber. But with the MH, there's something about how it *feels* expensive and stays for much of the day.

djh, Saturday, 22 September 2018 21:03 (four months ago) Permalink

Despite having failed to buy anything in UAE earlier this year, I’ve started to take an interest in domestic Arabian fragrance houses like Rasasi recently. Outside of the Gulf, they seem to attract a higher than average proportion of the kind of people who do direct-to-camera YouTube reviews shouting about ‘BEAST MODE PROJECTION’ but that shouldn’t put anyone off.

A lot of European / American fragrances seem to have been formulated to smell great on the testing strip but disappear within about half an hour when worn (Imaginary Authors seems particularly bad at this) but perfumes designed for hot weather need to have more longevity, without necessarily being heavy or overpowering.

Rasasi’s La Yuqawam is a very good raspberry-leather with a smoky incense note underneath. It’s apparently suspiciously similar to Tom Ford’s Tuscan Leather. I’m keen to try some of their rose-oud ones as well.

Wag1 Shree Rajneesh (ShariVari), Friday, 28 September 2018 16:14 (four months ago) Permalink

Zoologist has a new one out next week by the guy who runs Bogue Profumo, called T-Rex, which the perfume place I go let me try at the start of the month. First impressions were positive. Lots of champaca.

I got a decant of this and have been wearing it today. It’s quite something. There is a heavy resinous frankincense bolted on to leather, rose, civet, geranium, black pepper, patchouli and that big champaca note. The longer it goes on (and it seemingly goes on forever) the smokier it gets but it never loses that spicy floral element or the slight suggestion of the stable. My favourite incense fragrances, like Zagorsk and Avignon, tend to be a little austere and churchy, Tyrannosaurus Rex is the absolute opposite. Luca Turin wrote that smelling one of Antonio Gardoni’s handful of other fragrances (Maai, I think) is akin to sitting in the front row of the Vienna Philharmonic after months of listening to ringtones and this is no different. It smells like it was designed to cover up the fact that it’s 1930 and your face cream is giving you low-key thallium poisoning. Gardoni is pretty interesting - he is an architect who seems to have started making fragrances as a hobby.

It’s possibly not something I would buy a bottle of, and probably shouldn’t have worn on a plane journey today, but idk, it’s certainly impressive and very enjoyable.

Wag1 Shree Rajneesh (ShariVari), Wednesday, 3 October 2018 21:53 (four months ago) Permalink

one month passes...

Anyone tried: Musgo Real Cologne No. 5 Lime Basil?

djh, Tuesday, 13 November 2018 07:23 (three months ago) Permalink

three weeks pass...

Update: it's *okay*. Not as nice as Orange Amber. One to wear for work rather than a special occasion.

djh, Wednesday, 5 December 2018 19:01 (two months ago) Permalink

a sample of amouage gold for women has shown up in the office lost and found. and while the owner is overwhelmingly likely to be me, I don't remember whether I actually brought it, and I don't want to steal someone's $300 perfume. (especially since I don't even particularly love Gold) this has gone on for like a week.

aloha darkness my old friend (katherine), Friday, 7 December 2018 18:25 (two months ago) Permalink

four weeks pass...

i got hermes rocabar, hermes eau d'orange verte, and varvatos vintage for christmas. the rocabar is probably better for fall rather than winter as it doesn't project enough in the cold, dry air but other than that it's a-ok and pretty damn good. i get the hay/ horse blanket vibe, so bring on the dancing horses, wherever they may roam. it's mostly benzoin and fir, so it's similar to the laura biagiotti roma, but less resionous. the verte, i dunno if that's a greenish orange that's not quite ripe or orange with green herbal notes, but it's jean-claude ellena all the way and wherever his dart lands is where he meant to throw it so i just wait for springtime so i can spray this shit on my carcass and revel in its sublime glory. it's precise and simple. i get orange and basil, with a bit of mint. i would have preferred the concentree version, as it lasts longer than the edc version, but a gift's a gift. the varvatos reminds me of that bit in the joy division movie where whatsisface tells stephen morris to speed it up and slow it down. varvatos goes way old skool and then way modern. varvatos puts some guts into his fragrances then dilutes them homeopathically so no one can smell the guts. you gutless bastard, john varvatos. it's still a pretty good designer fragrance. tobacco and fir, which seals the deal, and rhubarb pie.

i got my brother narciso rodriquez for him and comme des garcons 2 man. if fahrenheit is violet leaf in a kerosene fire then for him is violet leaf in an october rainstorm. yang, meet yin. the 2 man is prolly the apex of extant designer fragrances since gucci decided no one needs modern classics like envy, gucci ph, or rush anymore. so i've heard. i've never smelled those. i'm not angry, cause there's no such thing as original sin, says elvis costello. still, things suck in the designer realm.

slugbuggy, Sunday, 6 January 2019 09:03 (one month ago) Permalink

also! i want to try the musgo real line, especially since my brother likes barbershoppy things, but i have no access. there's no online resource for samples and i'm not in a decent metro area that gives credence to basic human needs.

slugbuggy, Sunday, 6 January 2019 09:24 (one month ago) Permalink

Is it fair to ask where you are?

djh, Sunday, 6 January 2019 19:56 (one month ago) Permalink

Is it fair to ask where you are?

djh, Sunday, 6 January 2019 19:56 (one month ago) Permalink

(Weird, don't know why that happened).

djh, Sunday, 6 January 2019 19:56 (one month ago) Permalink

Anyway. I tend to wear two brands: Musgo Real (I love their Orange Amber but have recently bought Lime Basil) and Miller Harris (Etui Noir, Feuilles de Tabac, Vetiver Insolent).

I kind of think of the former as what I'd wear for work and the latter as more of a treat. The Miller Harris feels more expensive (and lasts longer) though there's a bit of a cross-over in price (Musgo Real can be bizarrely expensive, I only ever buy Miler Harris in the sale).

Barbershoppy is a good description of Musgo Real - you can kind of imagine it being worn by people modelling Portuguese Work Wear.

djh, Sunday, 6 January 2019 20:02 (one month ago) Permalink

my wife and I had to go through contortions to get Antonia's Flowers for my mother in law as it appears to be discontinued and Barney's had one bottle. But that bottle came with a sample of Yin by The Harmonist which my wife loved, and I can stand as well. Surprise it costs $300 a fucking bottle. But I suppose that would last forever.

akm, Sunday, 6 January 2019 20:10 (one month ago) Permalink

I should wear my Roma more.

There's more Italy than necessary. (in orbit), Sunday, 6 January 2019 22:48 (one month ago) Permalink

i'm in sw ohio. the closest neiman marcus is in detroit and as far as i can tell and they're the only retailer that has it in a physical location, along with bergdorf goodman.

slugbuggy, Sunday, 6 January 2019 23:36 (one month ago) Permalink

They do a box set, if it isn't prohibitively expensive by the time in reaches America?

djh, Monday, 7 January 2019 20:14 (one month ago) Permalink

have been wearing:

azzaro chrome legend (soapy, ambroxan-heavy yet a polite work scent)
cartier declaration (citrus and funky spices initial, transparent newsprint-like vetiver on the drydown)
guerlain l'homme ideal edp (sweet cherry/amaretto and virgin leather) kinda like guerlain's answer to one million

clouds, Friday, 11 January 2019 22:13 (one month ago) Permalink

one month passes...

i got 50 ml bottles of ysl rive gauche pour homme and kenzo tokyo from one of those mall kiosk places. the rive gauche is the discontinued tin can version, not the current la collection glass bottle re-issue, which itself has been re-issued in a new version. i was somewhat afeared of purchasing from one of these establishments because there's always some review when i do a google internet query (search engine, like ask jeeves) that tells me these places sell fakes, but who in their right mind is counterfeiting animale animale or liz claiborne mambo? nobody, that's who, or if the answer is somebody, then a really dumb somebody. the price of each was good. i paid $48 for the tokyo and $58 for the rive gauche in u.s. of american currencies. the rive, i saw the same size for $77 at the least on ebay, so it's a good deal; the tokyo, i could get the 3.4 oz for the same price i paid for the 1.6 oz up until it was recently discontinued and unavailable on discounters, at which point the price for the 1.6 oz went up to as much as $329.99 from one particular dickweed amazon seller, hand to god, and other sellers still want crazy stupid prices. so you can see why i had to get it.

the rive gauche, the convention wisdom is that it smells like shaving cream. it do! it do smell like shaving cream, except it's a cologne, so it's better than if you just spread barbasol all over your neck and went out like that.

the kenzo is a pretty good woody spicy thing. similar to azzaro visit, which i have, except the visit has this dense, oily bergamot thing in the opening which i suspect is used to tamp down on the heavy pepper and incense. the kenzo just shows up all put together so it has that going for it, which is nice. anyway, i got the last one.

i also got some samples from a popular discount website. what about adam, from joop! and encre noire sport from lalique. i got a mini size of the wba, which is from like 1992. i get bitter green tomato leaf and i guess cassia and then there's florals and other stuff but i mostly get green and florals. it really feels like an in-between interzone type of thing the way three strange days or right here right now or groove is in the heart belong to that time period.

encre noire sport is encre noire with grapefruit and lavender. it's more accessible and populist but if you like encre noire but feel you can't really pull it off on a daily basis then this is the answer for that, so why are you upset that it went in that direction? you have so much stuff that is good but difficult, get the thing that is good and uncomplicated, is how i see it.

slugbuggy, Sunday, 17 February 2019 13:53 (three days ago) Permalink

I always get super excited when I see that this thread has new answers, and a slugbuggy post never disappoints. I will now have three strange days in my head for at least three days.

mom tossed in kimchee (quincie), Sunday, 17 February 2019 14:35 (three days ago) Permalink

I just discovered the Ormonde Jayne line, which I think is really outstanding. Fortunately in NYC we have shops like Aedes or Osswald where you can go and sample 100 different chi chi fragrances if you want. Ormonde Jayne is from London, and they have a collection called Four Corners of the Earth inspired by the world travels of their founder, each fragrance specifically inspired by the indigenous flora she's encountered (so says their ad copy). My favorite of the batch is Montabaco, the one inspired by South America, which has some tobacco and leather/suede notes but blended well so you don't immediately peg it as one thing or another. You could imagine this on either an Argentine polo player or a sophisticated lady of means. It's crazy expensive though - $375/100ml! Ormonde Jayne also has a standard men's fragrance that - sorry if I lack the language - is a lovely powdery, slightly spicy, with flinty note blend that I suppose is reminiscent of Rocabar, of ones I'm familiar with. It's $220/100ml or $150/50ml.

One thing I've learned from visiting these fragrance shops is that there are far more scents I don't like than ones I do, even among the expensive ones. Certain notes are automatic turn-offs (like the bubble gum note many fragrances have, not sure what it is technically) and other notes ruin the fragrance if they're slightly too present. And then there's the complication of one's own body chemistry which may not take to a certain scent. That's why I tend to remember the few fragrances that pass all the tests.

Another one I thought I liked enough when trying it out in the store, but after taking home a sample and wearing it decided it was ever-so-slightly too sweet for me, was Amber Room by Thameen. I do appreciate its relative elegance though.

Josefa, Sunday, 17 February 2019 15:36 (three days ago) Permalink

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