Perfume / Cologne

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So what kind do you wear? Do you wear any? Is it pricey? Cheap? What's it smell like, because really just saying the name generally isn't enough. Are any of you allergic to perfume / cologne? What do you think about people wearing it? What about on men, classic or dud?

(Question prompted by TWO perfume related experiences this weekend, weirdest being man who followed me around Food Emporium working up the nerve to ask what kind I wore)

Ally, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

I wear the Gauiter fragrance with the male torso.

anthony, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

What's that smell like?

Ally, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

St. Etienne

Mitch Lastnamewithheld, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

I used to use cologne now and again for very fancy occasions -- can't recall *what* I used, it was that long ago. These days I simply trust the work of a good shower and effective underarm deodorant.

Ned Raggett, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

Dud: relying on supermarket deodorant/antiperspirant to do all the odor-bearing work. This is a poor habit of indie boys, though preferable to no deodorant at all.

Benjamin, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

I wear Fracas. It comes in a black bottle. It smells like tuberose and gardenia and something else. I used to wear Joy, which smells like jasmine and tuberose. I might switch back to that. I plan to go to Sephora pretty soon and go through all their perfumes and decide on a new signature scent.

Sometimes when I feel like being a moron I wear Skin Musk, that stuff is tops.

Ally, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

I don't wear any, just deodorant.

Ally C, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

My signature scent for a long time was Fahrenheit, which smelled like pine. Lately I've taken to wearing a Perry Ellis scent that smells like generic cologne. Sob.

Dan Perry, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

sticky stuff under arms = dud. I like my smell.

tracer Hand, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

Bod, the green one. Every single time I wear it I get compliments, girls come up and take big wiffs. At first, I thought they were being sarcastic and then I realized that it smells like Isey Miaki (or however you spell it). At $7 per huge bottle, it's a much better deal than it's fancy Asian counterpart. I also wear some blue shit from Bath & Body that is similarly fruity. I like fruity scents. Spicey or musky are disgusty. My girlfriend wears Happy a lot and Green Tea (I think?). Yummy.

Nude Spock, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

Unfortunately, tracer, your idea is mainstream in subway life. Everyone seems to be pleased with their reeking ass selves on the subway.

Nude Spock, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

In elementary school I tried to be cool by bringing one of those sample vials of cologne into the coat room, but I dropped it and it broke and stank out the joint, not to mention my arm for the next 24 hours. Perry Ellis still makes me get all misty-eyed.

Dave M., Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

There are always Demeter's colognes. Laid-off "new media" girls in New York seem to have a fondness for the "Dirt" smell. But if I smell like Gin and Tonic or some other Demeter fragrance, it is because I have spilled my drink down the front of my shirt.

Benjamin, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

I too wear the Gaulthier cologne with the naked man with the huge package. It used to make my ex very, um, aroused. But my european housemates bought me a bottle of Emporio Armani from the duty free store. I wish they had gotten me cigarettes instead.

Phil-Two, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

Note to Tracer: Similar feelings about sticky armpits have caused me to become addicted to anti-perspirants.

Dan Perry, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

spock - yet I am unbothered because I am protected by my own impermeable force-field of earthy sweat. Fight fire with fire!

I have heard that people in Germany hold body odor in much higher regard (aphrodisically speaking) than us scrub-crazy Americans. I don't think UKers feel the same way, but it sure seems like it ;)

Tracer Hand, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

I almost bought some Dirt - I'd been putting it off, and when I went back to the store to buy it, I felt it was a little sweet for my taste. The tangerine one was nice. I'm sticking with Song de Chine (a green tea fragrance), and after my bottle is empty, I'm going for a citrus. I like to mix the green tea with the citrus or a rose scent. I hate spicy or excessive floral scents. I also like Rain oil, but that's a little played out now, I guess.

Kerry, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

Demeter annoys me - I mean, why would you want to smell like Dirt? Or Gin & Tonic? Or Tomatoes??? I don't get it. Their sweet ones are nice for trying to be all innocent every once and a while, like there's one that smells all carmelly, I forget what it is called but it's nice enough.

I like Smell This for cheap stupid novelty scent. Beach Smells = great.

Ally, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

Used to have Eau D'Issey Miyake. Now I use what my granny gives me. Can't remember what it is though. Oh yeah occasionally use Anais Anais.

nathalie, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

A bottle of Tommy I stole from my brother. Or a CK1 one rip off from Target. Both I've recently grown tired of, and am looking for a switch. Most men's cologne's are really gross, too musky. I tend to go for the perfumey types.

The odd thing is when you are standing in an elevator or such, and you notice some stranger smells like an ex-girlfriend.

bnw, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

Bought bottle of semi-expensive YSL Kouros in duty free shop two or more years ago when loaded (in all senses). Still a few splashes left. What happened to the great smell of Brut?

Andrew L, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

My problem is that I wear things that are way too expensive. I was sitting there in that stupid movie this weekend smelling my wrist, going, hey, this isn't strong enough for costing $90. I have to go find something strong enough to be worth that cash, although apparently it's stronger than I thought.

Ally, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

I wear a number of perfumes/colognes but my favourites are: Eternity, 5th Avenue and 2 I can't find anymore... :( Somewhere and Wishing( Avon) Gale

Gale, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

If my nose comes within ten feet of Tommy, I feel like vomiting. Sensory trigger reaction from 2nd college roommate (for more information, see 'Strange Wiggling').

matthew, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

Nothing...I usually don't like perfume. I like flowery scents, though. The real reason is that I am too cheap to spend money on accessories, be it perfume or hair ties or makeup. $10 for perfume when I could get a book? Really, people. Deodorant and shampoo.

Lyra, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

Old Spice. Grown up man's smell.

DavidM, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

Sort of masculine but in a femme kind of way. citrus, greenry and a touch of floral

anthony, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

I don't go for aftershave, I just have nice-smelling deodorant, currently Lynk Gravity (I think).

DG, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

sorry, LYNX.

DG, Tuesday, 21 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

I have a zinc deficiency and that urban legend lactose intolerance, which means I've had almost no sense of smell my whole life, and for that reason any smells which I can perceive are pretty disagreeable to me, especially artificial odors. Manure smells better to me than perfume / cologne.

Otis Wheeler, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

Has cologne become "in" again, or am I just now noticing more guys wearing cologne than before?

Tadeusz Suchodolski, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

I *hate* the smell of perfume and am incredibly glad Isabel doesn't wear it (she's allergic - I think she'd quite like to wear it). It all just smells so ghastly and inhuman - ugh. Being on a tube with someone with strong perfume on is the absolute worst form of public transport sense pollution I know, bar someone actually taking a shit on the tube floor.

Tom, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

Also, surely perfume was invented and became fashionable when it was really really difficult for people to take regular baths. It is now in the 1st world at least not difficult for people to take regular baths i.e. perfume is now completely unneccessary and using it is the equivalent of still using a horse and bloody cart.

Tom, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

Tom you have reminded me of the hilarious joke Q. Why do girls wear makeup and perfume A. Because they are ugly and they smell.

I don't wear it on a daily basis but sometimes if I'm going out. Then it's Eau D'Issey or Dune. I used to wear Spellbound and lots of men would comment favourably on it. Why did I stop?

Emma, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

I don't wear any, just deodorant.

Ally C - Lynx Africa does not count as deodorant as it has no anti-perspirant qualities. It's a body spray = perfume = you are a girl.

I like perfume (and girls) so that's not meant as an insult. I'm wearing Farenheit today, which is nice but doesn't seem to last very well. Sometimes I wear Cool Water and sometimes I sip into my CK selection pack.

Nick, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

um, ckone

gareth, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

I theoretically agree with Tom as reasonably clean humans usually smell great and covering it up seems daft. However, some musky perfumes (I'd recognise them, but I don't know their names) do send me into a deep lustful swoon.

I do use an antiperspirant myself but that's because I'm a sweaty bastard.

Richard Tunnicliffe, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

You sip perfume Nick? Why not just try breath freshener?

Emma, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

At the moment Héritage by Guerlain or on sunny days Allure by Chanel. After I finish those I'm going to change again, I'm thinking Vetiver by Guerlain and that Helmut Lang eau de toillete if I can ever find a bottle in this godforsaken city.

In general I trust Guerlain and Chanel.

Omar, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

Today it's Hugo Boss, but I've also got Bvlgari (a bit lemony, not too sure about it), contradiction, xs and boss elements aqua. I love the smell of perfume and aftershave, mind you I do get some funny looks when I ask people what that lovely aftershave they're wearing is. But nothing floral, destroy:anais anais, the smell of creeping death and funerals.

cabbage, Wednesday, 22 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

perfume and cologne are both disgusting. they make me gag. they all smell so damn artificial and in many cases like solvents and some people SERIOUSLY overdo it. a clean-person-smell is so much nicer and is actually pretty damn attractive.

lady die, Thursday, 23 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

The trick with perfume is to only apply enough so you can smell it when you get close. Unfortunately, this is difficult to achieve as most perfumes either fade quickly or smell very strong for the first couple of hours.

I am currently rotating between Fendi, Trussardi Light, CK Truth, Green Tea, Happy, a freebee phial from Zara and a bottle of stuff from River Island I got for Christmas (work days only).

Madchen, Thursday, 23 August 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

one month passes...
I wear Angel now. Everyone likes it, but vaguely irritatingly, Ramon prefers Skin Musk, which I used to wear, which costs $8 in the kiddie perfume section of Duane Reade. Why am I spending any money at all? I'm a big moron.

Ally, Tuesday, 16 October 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

I think Angel has chocolate in it. I wear Comptoir Sud Pacifique's Motu, but it's a summery fragrance and the bottle's almost empty so I'm looking for something else next. They have a new one, Coeur de Raisin. I tried it, it's grape, lilly and jasmine, about $50 for a small bottle, I guess that's a moderate price. The Jo Malone Honeysuckle + Jasmine I bought only attracted bees, it's still more than half full.

Lesley Higgins, Tuesday, 16 October 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

I think my favourite is H2O+'s Green Tea but I don't have it - somehow got Elizabeth Arden's Green Tea instead which smells pretty darned good too and is especially nice if you use just a tiny bit but of the actual cologne but beforehand you shower with the gel and use their moisturizer and also if you use a green tea scented shampoo and conditioner - leaves just a very subtle scent but then you've got it *everywhere*. I don't have a signature scent though as I have about ten different ones on the go at any given time. I love cool oceany or airy smelling ones for everyday. Still, sometimes nothing beats something as basic as a fresh shampoo and a bit of baby powder.

On the boy I'm 'liking' this new one that's oh so obliquely called Sexual. It's like, ok YOU, bedroom NOW!

Kim, Tuesday, 16 October 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

Kiehl's. Cucumber. Body. Wash.

better shower regularly tho, or you'll turn into a pickle!

Tracer Hand, Tuesday, 16 October 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

Comptor has some nice stuff if you just want really subtle. Except for that goddamned Vanille line they have, which smells like you've just rolled around for 8 hours in cookie dough and then gone out, and is disgusting.

Ally, Wednesday, 17 October 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

What an excellent question. I'm still mourning discontinuation of Donna Karan's Chaos - although I saw a bottle for $150 in a rare perfume shop I didn't bite. I'm trying to find a replacement because it's spicy and musky and everyone else likes it on me too. I'm one of these people who cannot bear to have the same perfume as any friends. but as I used to wear the Issey Miyake one, Diorissimo, Joseph and the men's Escape I'm not normally a musk person. If you like real ho's bedroom stuff go for Chaumade by Guerlain.

Suitable replacements for the Chaos are either the Comme des Garcons red or Corso Como 1010 and I will get one of these on my next trip to Liberty, or when a fashion friend goes through Milanese duty free. Whichever comes first.

suzy, Wednesday, 17 October 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

You know what's good? Thierry Mugler's new mens cologne. If I could afford to buy such things right now I'd get it, it smells delish.

Nicole, Wednesday, 17 October 2001 00:00 (twenty years ago) link

I love Kyoto too but like xp I find it doesn't last very long on me. I don't mind re-applying throughout the day though. My current fave from the CdG Incense series is Zagorsk--cold, austere, piney, vaguely soapy, and perfect for winter. Supposedly smells a lot like Eastern Orthodox church incense, which I'm not familiar with.

I also tried Guerlain Jicky (EDP, new 2021 bottle) for the first time a few days ago, and the opening has to be one of the most beautiful things I've ever smelled. Lavender, citrus, herbs, hay--clean and rustic at the same time. It smells old but feels timeless rather than dated. I got a bit of the infamous civet funk in the drydown, not in an unpleasant way. Similar to the clean/dirty dichotomy of Kouros but mellower and more welcoming.

J. Sam, Friday, 17 December 2021 17:13 (five months ago) link

Got Frederic Malle’s 12 piece discovery set as an asked-for present yesterday and the Imaginary Authors perfume as a surprise Fox in the Flowerbed.

Wore Fox in the Flowerbed yesterday and tried Portrait of a Lady from the Malle set today, so these are just initial impressions.

Fox in the Flowerbed:

My husband said he thought of this for me because it has a jasmine top note same as Alien, which I’ve worn and loved for years. Alien is a beautiful fragrance but it’s not for everyone and some find it a lot. Turin and Sanchez don’t particularly rate it but I’ve always found it to be very special, and have gone through several bottles in the last twenty years. Anyway, Fox…is a fresher scent than Alien, it’s designed around the theme of a whimsical book about a fox that falls in love with a butterfly. Insufferable as all that sounds, it’s a beautifully presented bottle (in a box that looks like a book), and the notes echo the fiction it’s supposedly inspired by. The jasmine ofc is pretty notable, but the pink pepper lingers on as well for a little kick. It’s very pretty and well done, and was a nice touch of spring in this dour winter. I wish all surprises were this great.

Portrait of a Lady:

I’ve owned Carnal Flower (another Christmas present), and wanted to try some more Malle fragrances but haven’t made it out to anywhere in 2021 to do so in person :( This one came highly recommended and I was keen to try it first. The notes are very reminiscent of Twilly eau poivrée (which I also own and love). The initial impression is of the rose, warm and luminous, but after a while some of the other notes come to the fore. I got the cinnamon and sandalwood hints a bit stronger but other people may perceive it differently. Am I the kind of person who wears this, I wonder? Maybe not, it’s very sweetly feminine and ladylike and I think I might slightly prefer Twilly au Poivrée’s slight bite but I have a few more goes of this. It’s a very beautiful perfume, I can’t quite work it out.

mardheamac (gyac), Sunday, 26 December 2021 18:56 (five months ago) link

Also just realised that Dominique Ropion, who did Carnal Flower and Portrait of a Lady, was also behind Alien so that was nice to think about the similarities between them.

mardheamac (gyac), Sunday, 26 December 2021 18:59 (five months ago) link

More Frederic Malle:

Musc Ravageur

Was excited about trying this one but undecided on it. I had read other people's impressions of this as this towering, sexy fragrance and it's...a bit weak? I don't know. Will try it another couple of times, but it doesn't come close to Fracas for sexy.

En Passant
Well named. Evaporated almost as soon as I put it on.

Une Rose

The description of this interested me.
An earthy rose is tinged with Périgord truffle for a subtle taste of the gothic. This crimson femininity is bound by wine dreg to a darker base, the rose’s secret roots. A garden flower with hidden depths.

It's sweet, it's warm, and I definitely get the wine dregs - like an evening after an engagement maybe, but the word I keep settling on is nice and it's not £172 nice.

mardheamac (gyac), Sunday, 2 January 2022 15:47 (four months ago) link

I'm not a hugely perfumey person but I want to smell all these!

kinder, Sunday, 2 January 2022 18:08 (four months ago) link

Next time you're somewhere they have perfume you can try, try Twilly. Incredible. I bought it in the airport on the way home from Ireland in the summer and I haven't liked anything so much in years. It's fresh, it's bright, it's warm, it's gorgeous. Haven't loved anything like this in a long long time.

mardheamac (gyac), Sunday, 2 January 2022 18:15 (four months ago) link

Isn’t that the one you bought Gyac? The one with the bottle that looks like it’s wearing a little hat?

Benson and the Jets (ENBB), Sunday, 2 January 2022 18:20 (four months ago) link

My trusty fave is still Narciso Rodriguez “For Her” but I also recently got Juliette Has a Gun’s Not a Perfume and I love it so much.

Benson and the Jets (ENBB), Sunday, 2 January 2022 18:22 (four months ago) link

xp yep, I have the Eau Poivrée one as well!

mardheamac (gyac), Sunday, 2 January 2022 18:26 (four months ago) link

btw I've never tried Narciso Rodriguez For Her but Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez gave it a good writeup in Perfume: The A-Z Guide.

But give Narciso Rodriguez to someone you like, and stand at attention as she sweeps past. You then realize that some fragrances, like gravitation, reliably generate an attractive force day in and day out, without fuss or explanation, though theories abound. LT

Memorable mostly for mating a big, somewhat masculine patchouli-musk to its harsh, chemical-smelling orange-blossom floral. TS

mardheamac (gyac), Sunday, 2 January 2022 18:30 (four months ago) link

It’s gorgeous.

Benson and the Jets (ENBB), Sunday, 2 January 2022 20:56 (four months ago) link

Musc Ravageur

Was excited about trying this one but undecided on it. I had read other people's impressions of this as this towering, sexy fragrance and it's...a bit weak? I don't know. Will try it another couple of times, but it doesn't come close to Fracas for sexy.

I went to a Frederic Malle store a couple months ago, mainly to try that one and Monsieur. I had a similar reaction to Musc Ravageur; it was definitely more subtle and less aggressive than I expected. Monsieur, on the other hand, I loved immediately. The drydown smells exactly like Minorien Fu-In Kyara japanese incense, which is amazing stuff and worth checking out if you're into that kind of thing.

A couple weeks after that I got a sample of Le Labo Labdanum 18, which smelled really familiar to me in a way I couldn't articulate. Turns out it's basically Musc Ravageur with a slightly more animalic edge (also by the same perfumer). I really like it; it's both soothing and sexy at the same time. Makes me want to give Musc Ravageur another shot and do a side-by-side of the two.

Also gyac, you're OTM re: Fracas. Easily my favorite "women's" perfume ever. Fun, sexy, glamorous, and miraculously undated for a perfume from the 40s. I got my girlfriend a bottle of it, but I keep my own decant just to sniff once in a while and spray some on if I'm feeling adventurous

J. Sam, Sunday, 2 January 2022 22:03 (four months ago) link

my friend who like me loves Frederic Malle was taken aback by Musc Ravageur, he said wearing it felt like the experience of waking up in a bed next to a stranger

Dan S, Monday, 3 January 2022 00:47 (four months ago) link

Carnal Flower, Lys Meditérranée, and Portrait of a Lady are my favorite Frederic Malle scents. My friend asked me for Bois D'Orage (renamed French Lover) as a Christmas present. He really likes that and Angeliques Sous la Pluie

Dan S, Monday, 3 January 2022 01:15 (four months ago) link

Une Fleur de Cassie is also amazing, kind of feral and animalic but compelling

Dan S, Monday, 3 January 2022 01:40 (four months ago) link

Musc Ravageur and Vetiver Extraordinaire have been my faves for some years now. And Guerlain Vetiver (og, not Extreme). But I really love FM and their creations.

SQUIRREL MEAT!! (Capitaine Jay Vee), Monday, 3 January 2022 14:30 (four months ago) link

I went to a Frederic Malle store a couple months ago, mainly to try that one and Monsieur. I had a similar reaction to Musc Ravageur; it was definitely more subtle and less aggressive than I expected. Monsieur, on the other hand, I loved immediately. The drydown smells exactly like Minorien Fu-In Kyara japanese incense, which is amazing stuff and worth checking out if you're into that kind of thing.

Wearing Monsieur today. First impression was entirely unexpected - I thought “Sun Moon & Stars????” This dissipated after about five minutes but it was nostalgic af. I’m not really sure why, maybe the initial astringent hit? They share some similar notes (vanilla, musk, amber, cedar), but those are in a ton of things.

Definitely get the incense, and I will check that recommendation out since I like it in small doses (and also I love CdG Avignon). It’s a warm scent on my skin, feel like the sexiest man alive. The incense fades in nicely and the patchouli comes forward. The vibe I am getting is leather, nice aftershave and the tangerine is the faintest hint of sweet to stop it being too masculine. Easily my second favourite of this box so far.

mardheamac (gyac), Monday, 3 January 2022 20:42 (four months ago) link

Curious about Tyler, The Creator's debut scent.

... (Eazy), Tuesday, 4 January 2022 01:48 (four months ago) link

four weeks pass...

Got recommended Dear Polly as a high end dupe for Elizabeth Arden’s Green Tea and my sample finally arrived today: the green tea is sort of underneath but the top is an incredibly soft smoke. Love it, and it def smells high end, but not quite green tea enough. I think it might layer really nicely with a little of the Elizabeth Arden though.

just1n3, Thursday, 3 February 2022 23:48 (three months ago) link

three weeks pass...

i think the hardest thing is finding exactly what you want, specially if it's a single note thing with whatever else it takes to make a complete fragrance, but mostly you want that one note, with the extras rounding out the corners and adding lift but not being overly obtrusive. bring on the dancing horses is playing on kroq2 right now, and i don't know how to tie it in to what i'm saying as is my shtick, but it reminds me of the "bring on the dancing horses, tuff stuff" quote from the ilx archives, and that's a moment we can all reflect upon wistfully. they just don't write 'em like that anymore.

like, i asked for and got lalique encre noire l'extreme for birthday presents. because of the supposed incense note. it's mostly a cypress thing. i can tell there's incense in there, if i sniff the wrist and apply my knowledge base to the task at hand, but upon initial sniffage i wouldn't say it's an incense frag per se. also azzaro visit, it's supposed to be incensy and i can tell but mostly it's peppery and sweet salty ambergris. fragrantica says top voted notes are cedar and then incense but these aren't distinct as individual notes. it feels woody and smoky, but obliquely. cdg 2 man has a prominent incense note, but there's other stuff, too.

on the other hand, i have miller harris fumee or whatever and montale full incense, as samples. just incense, but mostly labdanum, which to my nose is really sticky and gummy. also mostly expensive. texturally incense should be dry and not gummy.

also i have these issues with fig leaf and tomato leaf. joop! what about adam is a great tomato leaf perfume but it's long discontinued.

anyway, i like the lalique, but mostly as a cypress fragrance. there's the gucci guily absolute, which has nothing to do with the guilty line; it's an old-timey leather with a strong cypress opening, which means it stinks real bad in a glorious way. the lalique is also pungently medicinal in the opening with the cypress but then it goes right to a warm balsamy elemi resin and benzoin drydown. now they're playing "talk yo you later" by the tubes. all the early 80s characteristics and qualifiers. how f*ing specific is that particular sound? i know what kind of shoes you were wearing when that song came out, i know what kind of haircut you had. the gears of timekeeping used to leave imprints on cultural artifacts but it doesn't seem to be the case anymore.

i also got a frederic malle sample set for birthday presents. musc ravaguer. old-timey aniamlic musk like khiel's plus old-timey concpetion of oriental, i.e., vanilla plus cinnamon. but it kinda rocks, in a near-modern old-school way, like jaipur homme or opium pour homme from the same period. last mohicans.

also en passant: realistic floral. lilac. i dunno from lilac but it smells like real flowers, not the impression of flowers like a lot of things. it's also supposed to have water and cucumber notes and can confirm. it's an olivia giacobetti so if all you know of her is philosykos you should smell this if only to expand your library of who and what different noses are.

l'eau d'hiver. powdery floral. jean-claude ellena. mostly heliotrope and iris, so, powdery. if i had to be reductionistic, i'd say it's intimate. cdg 2, the light/ inky one is intimate. the ds & durga coriander i talked about is intimate. it's the right kind of hug.

for crimmus i got lalique l'insoumnis, which for i asked. because it's herbal and barbershoppy both. the herbal is basil, the old-school is lavender and moss, plus the rum note gives it an aftershave vibe, sorta of. i feel it's like guerlain's homme, which is thierry wasser's attempt to bring guerlain into the modern era but still retain ties to the past and whatever. ppl on fragrantica say there's a generic bent to it or something clean and fresh that compares to dior sauvage. i didn't see it before but now i do. god help me. luckily it's not so egregious that it can't be forgiven. hopefully the look of love will pull me through. i love the half that is old-school, and his time will be the last time that we will fight like this. i don't want to have to fight with my fragrances.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 26 February 2022 12:04 (three months ago) link

been getting back into colognes after taking a few years off, didnt feel the need since i was working from home and not seeing anyone. but then i realized i miss smelling good even if im working with no one else around. i guess i used to do it for the compliments now im doing it for the loooove. i pretty much stick to designer fragrances and havent really gone down the niche road yet.

just got a bottle of paco rabanne ultrared man on a blind buy and im not sure i like it yet... it does smell much better after 30 minutes or so, might be coming around on it. very sweet, grapefruit/blood orange but not quite masculine enough for me maybe.

also got a bottle of banana republic tobacco & tonka bean. this one is unisex but more masculine than the ultrared i think. the pear and plum top notes really pulled me in when i was sampling at a store and i had to have it. lasts quite a while on me and the vanilla/tonka/tobacco dry down phase is really nice, love it. do wish the tobacco was a touch more pronounced.

in other news... the youtube frag reviewer culture is something else.

Spottie, Saturday, 26 February 2022 22:54 (three months ago) link

two weeks pass...

Is anyone here familiar with Etro Messe de Minuit? Reviews speak of a complex, luminous church incense. It's discontinued but FragranceNet seems to have found a few bottles in the back room. As of this post there is only one left, and I'm seriously considering blind buying it (feel free to scoop me on this; I really shouldn't be dropping $100 on something I've never smelled before). I love incense and really like everything else I've smelled from Etro (especially their Patchouly and ManRose) so chances are high that I'll dig this one. Would appreciate thoughts from anyone who knows it.

Lately I've been really into Le 3e Homme de Caron. I bought it blindly a few weeks ago, and it immediately triggered a dim olfactory memory of having smelled it when I was a kid in the early to mid 90s. I can't place it precisely though--maybe a male family member or a boyfriend of my mom's wore it at the time? At any rate it makes me feel like I'm in an art gallery or a high-end clothing boutique in that era. It smells so so good--fizzy citrus, fresh spices and florals with a woody musky base that is unambiguously masculine without being skanky. Actually not sure why I'm thinking about buying that Etro when I can just wear the Third Man all the time...

J. Sam, Thursday, 17 March 2022 04:38 (two months ago) link

I love Caron - 3e Homme isn't my thing but I admire it a lot, and I adore my gigantic bottle of Yatagan.

sean gramophone, Thursday, 17 March 2022 13:14 (two months ago) link

I bought Le 3e Homme along with Pour Un Homme and Yatagan, and I think they're all wonderful. Le 3 is the one that resonated with me the most, and my lavender-loving girlfriend likes Pour Un Homme for herself--her reaction to smelling it on me the first time was "Wow, I want to smell like that all the time." Which is fine with me!

J. Sam, Thursday, 17 March 2022 16:09 (two months ago) link

i had a sample of the le 3e homme and i thought it more or less was a precursor to later 90s light fougeres like eternity and egoist platinum, just because it also seemed really familiar to me but i'm sure i never encountered it at the time it was released, so there must have been something about it that was replicated in things i knew of. i dunno. fragrantica says this reminds ppl of pour monsieur, lancome sagamore, mitsouko, eau sauvage, insense, passion for men, bel ami, and even stetson, so who knows. doesn't mention eternity or egoist platinum, but it doesn't exactly smell like those, the connection wouldn't be that direct. being a perfume detective is hard work and i haven't even been paid yet. then there are also things like paco rabanne xs and ysl l'homme which aren't structurally or categorically similar but are function progeny, ie, carefree anti-macho-bullshit stuff for the regular guy who still plays the bass in his suburban basement sometimes and remembers the time thurston moore was in the audience for his college band but now the highlight of his week was when his son malachi almost scored a goal. you should have seen how happy malachi was. we all piled into the mini-van and went out for pizza and i remember looking at my wife sarah and thinking i'd trade all my dreams of being a famous graphic designer in the david carson mode to do it all again with her for the rest of eternity. that's l'homme, it's who you are. i think i lost the tread but i think le 3e homme might be the genesis of the comfort scent, not in the sense of comfort scents being a surrender, but an embrace of what's close.

also i still haven't smelled dior jules, chanel egoist, or ysl jazz or live jazz. or anteus. i hope they're like rive gauche. it was this great thing i didn't have and then i got it. i don't know what i'm expecting from jules et al, but, i just sprayed on rive gauche, and it's glorious. it's not the height of artistic expression qua artistic expression in absolute terms, but it's the intersection of that thing and a world that i can touch that has buildings with businesses inside them and people that make them work and highways and plastic packaging and songs that were on the radio and standing in the soup isle for fifteen minutes figuring out whether i want the creamy chicken noodle or the butternut squash. if you shoot an arrow and it goes real high, hooray for you. niche arrows can go really high because what do they have to lose but designer arrows have to penetrate a much denser atmosphere, i think, so if there's any artistic achievement at all i guess that bronze medal is as good as gold.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 26 March 2022 08:47 (two months ago) link

Would subscribe to a slugbuggy fragrance reviews substack.

Piedie Gimbel, Saturday, 26 March 2022 10:07 (two months ago) link


mardheamac (gyac), Saturday, 26 March 2022 10:18 (two months ago) link

i like it here just fine. i don't know as much about fragrance as i know how to go off on tangents that end up somewhere else so i'm good with starting off with low expectations and seeing where that goes. hopefully that adds to what i was trying to talk about.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 26 March 2022 11:12 (two months ago) link

It’s not an insult, your posts are great to read, that’s all we mean!

mardheamac (gyac), Saturday, 26 March 2022 11:16 (two months ago) link

Absolutely - you are a star sb!

Piedie Gimbel, Saturday, 26 March 2022 11:55 (two months ago) link

oh, i'm greatly amused by the stuff i post, but then i'm embarrassed by acting out in public. i just figure ilx is a nerd community where you can nerd out in yr own particular way but the emphasis is still on whatever it is we're talking about.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 26 March 2022 12:49 (two months ago) link

Sluggy you gotta try Antaeus. It's not like Rive Gauche though. It's a luxe rose/patchouli with gothic dandy vibes. Makes me feel like a rock star with a private jet for a couple hours.

Jules was harder for me to wrap my head around, but it's real nice too. It's proper PERFUME. Green cooking herbs + jasmine + cedar + piss (might be the sage that gives it that urinous quality).

J. Sam, Monday, 28 March 2022 02:39 (one month ago) link

you have to forgive me; my english is inelegant. by "like rive gauche" i mean in the sense that rive gauche was purported to be this really great thing, and it was! if it were still on the shelves it'd be my main man in the way ewan mcgegor uses that phrase in velvet underground. i think jules or anteus or egoist could be my main man, but i haven't been there yet to know.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 2 April 2022 07:40 (one month ago) link

also, which version of jules do you have? the vintage or the recent? either way, hard to get, i assume.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 2 April 2022 07:56 (one month ago) link

also, have you smelled voleur de roses by l'artisan? it's mostly patchouli and rose with plum and it's too described as gothy but the sample i got turned rancid on my skin so say no go (i can't go for that) but maybe it was just a bad sample. it smelled great out of the vial, though. don't know how it compares to antaeus.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 2 April 2022 08:25 (one month ago) link

probably every niche house has a patchouli plus rose thing. it seems so obvious, but in whatever the inverse is of retrospect, i assume antaeus outshines them all. don't and can't know yet. because of my primary thesis statement, which is that any individual niche achievement may reach such great heights because niche houses are free to pursue artistic achievement without regard to mass culture, but designer efforts have to take into account the entirety of the zeitgeist and landscape and still dare to be stupid, i figure antaeus has to be this outstanding accomplishment.

dreaming by blondie or beautiful world by devo are such distillations of the the time period they were rooted in that when i die and am reborn i'll have them in my pocket as a remembrance of the person i was just because i was alive back then, and i figure antaeus is the same for those who have it deep inside their psyche, it's forever 1981, and me too, once i smell it. no pressure, jacques polge. this is what i,m expecting from antaeus, although there's a good chance it might just be pretty much ok. i'm cool with either outcome.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 2 April 2022 09:37 (one month ago) link

have you seen the video for dreaming? that smile debbie gives to the camera at the beginning, it means so much. the people in the video are bopping along like it's a fun pop song but debbie is deconstructing your romantic fantasies and leaving you with the bare banes of human interaction. you're better off even if you don't know what just happened. but she'd build a road of gold, just to have her dreaming. antaeus is a dream in which everything that rises must converge, but you know, i'm no debutante.

i expect antaeus to be pretty good, is what i'm getting at or at least better than ok.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 2 April 2022 10:32 (one month ago) link

i never met antaeus, i'll never forget antaeus.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 2 April 2022 10:38 (one month ago) link

I’m wearing Alien today, which is still incredible. I know it’s a bit much for some people but it’s always felt perfect to me.

mardheamac (gyac), Saturday, 2 April 2022 10:40 (one month ago) link

xps @Sluggy, I have the current Jules. Not at all hard to get; I blind-ordered it directly from Dior and it shipped to me in NYC in 2 days. If you're just looking for a sample you might find it on one of those decanting sites or eBay, but I guarantee you're not going to encounter it in an IRL store these days. The online consensus re: current Jules is that it's pretty high quality compared to the original, though as usual there are still some folks out there claiming it's a "shadow of its former self." It smells complex and expensive to me, so I'm in no hurry to get my nose on the vintage. It doesn't hit my pleasure centers as squarely as either Kouros and Antaeus, the other early 80s animalic masculines I'm familiar with, but there's something about it that's more intellectually stimulating than most other perfumes.

I have not smelled Voleur de Roses, but you're definitely right about every niche house doing a rose/patchouli thing. I think Malle's Portrait of a Lady is the modern benchmark for that kind of thing, but Antaeus is enough for me. Also, come to think of it though, I don't really do "layering" but I'll make an exception for Diptyque Eau Rose + Santa Maria Novella Patchouli for another version of that combo.

I wasn't born until 86, and I don't recall ever smelling Antaeus before I got it last year (the biggest olfactory touchstones of my youth are Drakkar Noir, which my dad wore in the early 90s and which I'd frequently steal sprays of, and CK Eternity, which my elementary school best friend's mom wore heavily). It smells less dated than either Jules or Kouros to me, or maybe "outside of time" like some early Guerlains. I just watched the Blondie "Dreaming" video and sprayed some Antaeus in the air, and there's definitely some synergy there. For its reputation as a "masculine powerhouse" Antaeus actually radiates strong feminine energy to my nose. I mean its definitely a man's perfume, but there's a powdery softness to it as it dries down, hence the "dandy" aspect. I don't think you'll be disappointed in the least, but either way I'm excited to hear your thoughts once you finally get ahold of it.

Egoïste, Polge's other towering masculine masterpiece, was my girlfriend's Christmas gift to me last year, so I'll forever associate it with that time of year. Which is appropriate, I think, for its blend of warm sandalwood/watery rose/cinnamon/tobacco. Absolutely beautiful--in theory I think a guy could start and end his collection with Antaeus and Egoïste and be set. That guy is not me, but my bank account definitely wishes it were.

J. Sam, Sunday, 3 April 2022 22:34 (one month ago) link

Also, like a proper Chanel, Egoïste has finely calibrated citrus and aldehydes at the top. As good as the drydown is, I'm frequently tempted to re-spray it just to get that opening hit again.

J. Sam, Sunday, 3 April 2022 22:48 (one month ago) link

I finally tried Chanel Cologne yesterday, I had no intention of buying it but this was the first place where the tester hadn’t run out! They were sold out of all their stock of it though, just like in the other places I visited. No such stock issue with the other Exclusifs. Anyway it seems pretty great, I’d want to try it a few more times, not sure if buying it is for me though (not that I’ll ever get the chance).

Also tried Petit Fracas which is a younger diffusion scent of the original Fracas - pretty interesting and nice but I’ll stick with the classic.

mardheamac (gyac), Sunday, 3 April 2022 22:57 (one month ago) link

Btw speaking of Portrait of a Lady I have a voucher I was going to spend on a perfume and I’m torn between that and Monsieur (also Malle). Leaning more towards the latter because I own a lot of very feminine fragrances already but only a couple of more masculine ones and I really like a masculine scent on my skin sometimes (and this one is one of my favourites I’ve tried).

mardheamac (gyac), Sunday, 3 April 2022 22:59 (one month ago) link

Also also also I really want to try Egoïste now as well

mardheamac (gyac), Sunday, 3 April 2022 22:59 (one month ago) link

Egoïste is amazing but there’s something poisonous about it, for good or bad. I could imagine someone being turned off by it. Not as challenging perhaps as something like Bulgari Black, but not innocuous.

Josefa, Sunday, 3 April 2022 23:21 (one month ago) link

xp I'd definitely go for Monsieur over Portrait of A Lady too.

Re: Chanel Eau de Cologne I've been meaning to try that, will need to check it out the next time I'm around the Exclusifs. For me the Exclusifs are the epitome of "things I'll smell in the store and gladly accept samples of, but will probably never buy." Maybe one day when I'm in a better situation financially I'll splurge on a bottle of Coromandel or Boy or Cuir de Russie, but right now that's some pipe dream shit.

Would be curious to try Petit Fracas too. I think the original is the best women's perfume ever made, and to me it smells remarkably un-dated for something from 1948. What about Petit Fracas makes it "younger"?

J. Sam, Monday, 4 April 2022 00:20 (one month ago) link

one month passes...

i finally smelled the tf beau de jour and i agree. it's modern-day old-school. it reminded me of something i couldn't place and then i thought zino and when i looked it up on fragrantica zino was first on the smell-a-like list. i awarded myself points for that. still, bdj is kinda its own thing and a step in the right direction.

you'd think the clone houses like alexandria fragrances would do rive gauche. if anyone asks, tell them to do that, they'd make hella bank.

slugbuggy, Saturday, 14 May 2022 07:16 (one week ago) link

I haven't tried it, but "River Fougere" by Dua is supposedly a decent Rive Gauche clone.

J. Sam, Wednesday, 18 May 2022 15:24 (one week ago) link

Really like Miller Harris "smells" - particularly Etui Noir but also Feuilles de Tabac and Vetiver Insolent. I like the "Miller Harris-y"ness, which I can't quite define but something to do with it seeming to hang around ... but becoming slightly immune to it. Used to wear Musgo Real's Orange Amber but haven't for a while. Anything obvious (or otherwise) to explore?

djh, Wednesday, 18 May 2022 22:20 (one week ago) link

I'm completely unfamiliar with both Miller Harris and Musgo Real, but you've piqued my interest; the note breakdown of Etui Noir in particular = WOW

J. Sam, Thursday, 19 May 2022 02:11 (one week ago) link

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