Let's talk about Vice Magazine

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haha i totally remember this dream:

i had a dream the other night that i was watching mtv with someone and there was this old hole video on (it was "miss world" i think, but that doesnt't really matter since the song was completely different.) so c. love was gyrating around and she had these huge breasts and kept flashing her vagina (it was shaved), to which i exclaimed "my god!" repeatedly, more shocked/horrified than excited. i said to my viewing companion: "it's hard to wonder now how anyone ever fell for this as some sort of feminist statement."

i don't know how this fits with maura's statement but i don't want the dream lost forever. (her coochie is still burned into my memory.)

-- jess

jewess harvell (dubplatestyle), Saturday, 3 June 2006 13:43 (twenty years ago)

and/or when people got tired of arguing about them two years prior (xxp)

s1ocki (slutsky), Saturday, 3 June 2006 13:43 (twenty years ago)

even though it kinda reads like i'm talking about maura's coochie

jewess harvell (dubplatestyle), Saturday, 3 June 2006 13:44 (twenty years ago)

Momus, could you post some "representative" Ryan McGinley images? I can't quite work out what his style is, exactly, I'd like to.

Jake on the floor is a pretty typical one. Naked or semi-naked hot young boy, informally snapped in a situation which might be spontaneous, photographer's friend or lover rather than standard issue model. It combines Araki's intimate relationship with his models with Nan Goldin's scummy settings. Both these influences, by the way, were not accessible to Americans in the early 90s. And they're very evident in the American Apparel look which, I say again, will be a big part of how we look back at the 00s, whether we know it comes via McGinley and Vice or not.

What's very interesting to me is that Dov Charney is now championing Mexico City (there's even a free paper in his stores called Mexico City) as a style leader, and Mexican kids as cooler than American ones. This extends down to things like how sexy it is not to tweezer your eyebrows or shave your armpit hair. I'll make a bold prediction and say that in ten years young American women won't do either.

Momus (Momus), Saturday, 3 June 2006 13:46 (twenty years ago)

bold indeed!

jewess harvell (dubplatestyle), Saturday, 3 June 2006 13:47 (twenty years ago)

they must have asked for usage rights on one of his tunes or something, Momus always finds a company ideologically interesting once he's got business with 'em

AA actually asked me to write something about the company, but I declined.

Momus (Momus), Saturday, 3 June 2006 13:48 (twenty years ago)

"it'll get so much better when they start involving tampon strings hanging out all over the place."

Hustler in the 80's to thread! er, or so i've heard.

scott seward (scott seward), Saturday, 3 June 2006 13:48 (twenty years ago)

i'm going to guess momus isn't quite up on the differences between the american eagle/aeropostale/abercrombie/delias aesthetic and american apparels.

jewess harvell (dubplatestyle), Saturday, 3 June 2006 13:48 (twenty years ago)

i.e. shaved legs, pits, and coochies ain't goin anywhere any time soon

jewess harvell (dubplatestyle), Saturday, 3 June 2006 13:51 (twenty years ago)

The main difference in your case, Jess, is that American Apparel, a big sponsor of Pitchfork, is (indirectly) paying your wages for the journalism you write! I'm sure the others aren't.

Momus (Momus), Saturday, 3 June 2006 13:52 (twenty years ago)

SO SHOW SOME RESPECT.

s1ocki (slutsky), Saturday, 3 June 2006 13:55 (twenty years ago)

what the fuck does that have to do with teenage girls plucking their monobrows?

jewess harvell (dubplatestyle), Saturday, 3 June 2006 13:55 (twenty years ago)

i own an american apparel shirt. it's a lovely light aqua color, but the collar is disturbingly wide. i wear is only sometimes.

jhoshea (scoopsnoodle), Saturday, 3 June 2006 13:57 (twenty years ago)

yeah American Apparel could stand to bone up on lines & perspectives a little, their materials are good but the designs are pretty useless

Thomas Tallis (Tommy), Saturday, 3 June 2006 13:58 (twenty years ago)

http://www.bustedtees.com/images/collarup.23.gallery_normal.jpg

Q('.'Q) (eman), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:01 (twenty years ago)

Well, Jess, the model is this (bear with me):

Styles that will later dominate the mainstream and contribute to how we perceive a particular decade begin in media enclaves like Pitchfork and Vice. Actually, that's not even true; they begin in the art world. No, that's not true either, they begin in widespread social trends which artists are often the first to pick up on (the mainstream is usually slow to change its representations of the world, even when the world changes and moves on). Once they get into art shows, these new images and styles are legitimated: they begin to be seen as acceptable for wider use. People in advertising, music, publishing etc pick up on them, and soon (if they resonate with wider trends, ie the whole post-PC thing, or the fact that demographic growth in the US is coming from Asians and Hispanics rather than either the black or white populations) they reach the mainstream.

A case in point would be how Corinne Day's photos in the 90s (influenced by Nan Goldin) led to a moral panic over "heroin chic" which spilled out of the fashion world and left a mark on the 90s via "Trainspotting" etc. Heroin use in itself doesn't make "heroin chic" a legitimate style; it needs to be picked up by artists, then percolate through to wider cultural resonance via films, records, magazines, photographs... One consequence of this is that we wake up one morning and find that a particular sensibility is literally paying our bills.

Momus (Momus), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:05 (twenty years ago)

Momus this'd all be so much easier if you'd just say "I happen to like Vice," but, as with all your interests, you want to argue for its "importance" or "vitality," for prescience really: but do you honestly think (you can't) that trends didn't cycle prior to Vice? make any reasonable fashion claim today, in ten years or so it'll have cycled in & out and then you can call yrself a prophet if that's the sort of thing that's important to you.

I am rather glad though that Vice was not ahead of the game in making it OK for white people to call blacks "nigger" and "chink," and that the attempted resurrection of the "reclaiming the word!" ("reclaiming" by people who don't have the moral right to say what gets reclaimed when) trope seems to have died a richly-deserved death in the racial sphere anyhow (I wish it were still considered more bogus to call women "bitches" but you can't win 'em all)

Momus OTM however about how sexism doesn't get nearly the rise of of ilx that racism does, but this is my ol' hobby-horse

Thomas Tallis (Tommy), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:06 (twenty years ago)

Momus arguing that the social class to which you happen to belong is, in fact, the driving social class: is it any wonder everybody hates artists, who in fact pirate their ideas from the social sphere, not the other way 'round as you'd like to claim?

Thomas Tallis (Tommy), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:08 (twenty years ago)

http://images.dmusic.com/v7/emoticons/poo.gifStyles that will later dominate the mainstream and contribute to how we perceive a particular decade begin in media enclaves like Pitchfork and Vice.http://images.dmusic.com/v7/emoticons/poo.gif

Q('.'Q) (eman), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:13 (twenty years ago)

do you honestly think (you can't) that trends didn't cycle prior to Vice? make any reasonable fashion claim today, in ten years or so it'll have cycled in & out and then you can call yrself a prophet if that's the sort of thing that's important to you.

I don't say it all starts with Vice, but Vice is an important node on the network. Out of thousands of dud magazines, magazines that went nowhere, Vice is one that "knew what time it was" and positioned itself ahead of the curve. We're now seeing that sensibility go mainstream, which of course is the beginning of the end for Vice. But it has its place in the history of this decade now... and its thread on ILE. Which other magazines do we have threads on? Pitchfork? Also an important node on the network.

Momus (Momus), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:14 (twenty years ago)

american apparel and vice's photo aesthetic is not dissimilar to those controversial calvin klein ads from 95.

ihttp://itchylot.com/ck/jeans_details_march_95_4.jpg

http://itchylot.com/ck/jeans_details_march_95_3.jpg

jhoshea (scoopsnoodle), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:17 (twenty years ago)

http://itchylot.com/ck/jeans_details_march_95_4.jpg

jhoshea (scoopsnoodle), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:18 (twenty years ago)

aka shitty

jhoshea (scoopsnoodle), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:20 (twenty years ago)

haha, when i revived this at 1am i figured i'd get a couple "who gives a shit what you think" responses, but obviously this still has the power to annoy (or perhaps Momus just brings out the "best" in people)

timmy tannin (pompous), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:23 (twenty years ago)

and retro how-cool-we-were-when-we-were-adolescent stuff: one too many readings of Catcher in the Rye

xpost yeah THANKS LOADS TIMMY :)

Thomas Tallis (Tommy), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:24 (twenty years ago)

at least the CK ads were kinda...goin for it, in their lame porn-chic aesthetic. rather than this kind of...whatever the hell AA's aesthetic is. cinemax softcore meets urban hipsterdom?

jewess harvell (dubplatestyle), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:26 (twenty years ago)

I disagree. Those images are shot with studio models, under studio lights, with hi-res medium format cameras. They're marginally more "scummy" than standard avertising shots, but the difference from the McGinley / Vice / AA style (and I should add Terry Richardson, who's also worked a lot with Vice) is not just textural, it's political. Sure, these pictures are "sexy", but they lack the shock value of the Araki-Goldin style which influenced Richardson and McGinley so much (Araki freely admits to actually having had sex with many of his models while shooting them, and Goldin gives the viewer intimate insights into her relationship with her lovers).

One Vice cover had to be withdrawn because the subject actually was having sex with the photographer when the picture they ran on the cover was taken, and threatened to sue the magazine (she'd since split up with him acrimoniously). Terry R often sports naked with his models (in fact, he's published a book of pretty much just that). Look out for the Naked Conan O'Brien Show circa 2011! You read it here first!

Momus (Momus), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:28 (twenty years ago)

To clarify what I mean when I say this style is not just textural but political: the camera is a cheap one. The photographer has a real relationship with the subject; it isn't a professional one. (Of course, that walks a fine line re: rockism and sexism, but there you go.) And the models tend to be less Aryan, less fascistically perfect (ie AA's whole Mexico thing).

This gets back to a favourite theme of mine: there is a politics to texture.

Momus (Momus), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:33 (twenty years ago)

American Apparel seems to rip off Terry Richardson far more than McGinley. McGinley's boring, but he has a much tighter sense of color and light than either Richardson or the people AA hires.

milo z (mlp), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:33 (twenty years ago)

That was an xp before Momus brought up the big (awful) TR.

milo z (mlp), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:34 (twenty years ago)

i agree somewhat - but just because vice's photographers fuck their models doesn't mean they don't embrace artifice just as wholeheartedly ck.

and biting nan goldin's thing hardly seems like a defense.

(i should add that i do find the aa ads sexy - ck not so much.)

jhoshea (scoopsnoodle), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:34 (twenty years ago)

as ck that is

jhoshea (scoopsnoodle), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:36 (twenty years ago)

Who the fuck are the TTs again? I was told but I forgot.

Andrew Farrell (afarrell), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:40 (twenty years ago)

The photographer has a real relationship with the subject; it isn't a professional one. (Of course, that walks a fine line re: rockism and sexism, but there you go.)

This does not walk a fine line w/r/t rockism: it gives rockism a fantastic blowjob

Thomas Tallis (Tommy), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:41 (twenty years ago)

i was at a friend's birthday bbq last weekend and there was a big mess left where the people from vice had been hanging out.

HA. i think i was about half a block from going to this.

lauren (laurenp), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:43 (twenty years ago)

you should've come - it was fun.

also nan goldin seemed to have a genuine interest in and affection for her subjects. where as the vice photos tend to have more of a check me out taking this edgy photo over here fratboy artist thing going.

jhoshea (scoopsnoodle), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:46 (twenty years ago)

I've been hating on oxygen thief TR since 1994 at least, and that's before the 'scandal' of the Vice cover lawsuit - which was just shitty snap-and-capture competitive bullshit with another (female) photographer, oh yay big victory for Mr. Knobcheese. Let's just say I was not surprised at all by his behaviour.

suzy (suzy), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:51 (twenty years ago)

it should not pass without comment that this thread contained one of the all-time great Dave Q posts

Anyone who values their own personal dignity over selling records should get out of the business and go live in a fucking treehouse or something

Thomas Tallis (Tommy), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:54 (twenty years ago)

on-topic, though, the "ahead of the curve" meme is so weird & suspect to me: it's like, hey, here's something that sucks & is awful, but Vice was there first (they weren't actually, but let's allow it for argument's sake), so hurrah Vice for sucking ass early in the game? I mean, I'm American, we pretty much invented ruining local cultures (we took cues from the British, but we have elevated it to a vicious science): do we kick ass now that all would-be superpowers emulate us? for that matter, we were way ahead of the superpower curve, are we awesome for that? being there first is only good if the thing you're first at isn't completely lame, which isn't the case here: it's like boasting you were the first to eat your own shit with a spoon

Thomas Tallis (Tommy), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:57 (twenty years ago)

Terry Richardson is an international celebrity as well as one of the most prolific and compelling photographers of his generation. Known for his uncanny ability to cut to the raw essence of whomever appears before his lens, Mr. Richardson's vision is at once humorous, tragic, often beautiful, and always provocative.

hehe

http://www.terryrichardson.com/Start.html

jhoshea (scoopsnoodle), Saturday, 3 June 2006 14:59 (twenty years ago)

When your promo material makes you sound like the worst person in the world, it's really time to investigate a new PR firm.

Dan (Holy Shit) Perry (Dan Perry), Saturday, 3 June 2006 15:01 (twenty years ago)

Well, Suzy, it's interesting that the female photographer in question got her first big break by knobbing Noboyushi Araki! It takes two to knob, of course. And all the careers in question here are based on people photographing sex (also cats, flowers and stuff like that).

Momus (Momus), Saturday, 3 June 2006 15:03 (twenty years ago)

wait, how ahead of the curve was fiona apple? or larry clark? where does the curve even begin?

scott seward (scott seward), Saturday, 3 June 2006 15:04 (twenty years ago)

i do heart nan goldin. the ballad of sexual dependency. how ruling was that book? man, brings you back, doesn't it?

scott seward (scott seward), Saturday, 3 June 2006 15:07 (twenty years ago)

where does the curve even begin?

http://curve-online.co.uk/images/discography/scans/1991/anxt27a.jpg

Dan (Helpful) Perry (Dan Perry), Saturday, 3 June 2006 15:07 (twenty years ago)

yeah when considered in the context of clark or goldin these people are really not on the curve at all. i guess you could give vice credit for popularizing or commercializing the aesthetic.

jhoshea (scoopsnoodle), Saturday, 3 June 2006 15:08 (twenty years ago)

Larry Clark is a good call. But we're getting into "I knew this neighbourhood when only pedophiles and drug dealers lived here and you had to ride a Sherman tank to the subway stop" territory here...

Momus (Momus), Saturday, 3 June 2006 15:10 (twenty years ago)

although

http://www.artcomnews.com/artistes2/clark/visu/oeuv01.jpg

1995 again

jhoshea (scoopsnoodle), Saturday, 3 June 2006 15:11 (twenty years ago)

i dunno. you are giving vice credit for "starting" something that had been going strong for years and was still alive & kicking as far as i can tell. and not just in dennis cooper books and araki movies either. on MTV even. what with their bulimic cutters getting drunk and vomiting all over people's shoes programming strategy of the 90's and beyond.

scott seward (scott seward), Saturday, 3 June 2006 15:14 (twenty years ago)

(And this thread is more meta than both. Any racists here, or just people using the word "nigga" protected by layers and layers of meta-quotation?)

Momus, you'll never be able to write Rob Harvilla if you keep all this meta-ing up.

polyphonic (polyphonic), Saturday, 3 June 2006 15:14 (twenty years ago)


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