SURFING

Are we talking muffins? If so, I've been known to dabble.

hang ten is when you have 10 toes over the edge of the board. hang 5 is when you only have 5 toes over the edge (thats one foot adam)

closing out is a term for when the waves are not forming nice tubes but are likely to crash on yer head. dropping in is frowned upon.

a lemonhead is a dude who uses lemon to bleach his hair and look like a windswept blonde surfy. if you don't pull the cone you are a westie pooftah.

I am so not a lemonhead.

I was a huge college football star but I hurt my knee, so I joined the FBI and then took up surfing on the side because the chick who worked at the crab shack had a nice bum. And she also knew a few cool surfer dudes, Bodhi, Warchyld, Bunker Weiss. We hung out, got real close. I also had a older pal who enjoyed meatball sandwiches and lemonades. His name was Angelo. I got pretty decent at surfing and then discovered that Bodhi had kidnapped my crab shack love. Bodhi told me the only way I could get her back was to go skydiving with him without a parachute! So I did, except I jumped on Bodhi's back because the sneaky fucker actually had a parachute. When we hit the ground I landed awkwardly on my knee and let out a screech "whoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa." Come to find out Bodhi and his buddies actually rob banks with masks of ex-presidents as their disguise. Well anyways, Bodhi eventually dies in the 100 year storm in Tahiti on a 400 foot wave. Those were good times.

In my Southern California days, I surfed quite a bit. From the tip of Baja California, Mexico up to Santa Cruz and west to Hawaii (furthest west surfed was Windmill Beach on the northwest tip of Maui).

The gist is that you sit on a piece of foam encased in varying layers of fiberglass with a skag (skeg or fin) or three on the tail facing the incoming waves near where they break (where the wave crumbles or pitches out). When a wave is approaching you turn the board around facing the coast and paddle with your arms, propelling your board into the wave's momentum. As the wave becomes steeper, the board becomes propelled by the inclining waveface's energy and at this point you stop paddling, push up with both arms and slide a leg forward (left if you're "regular", right if you're "goofy") and begin turning so as to keep the board headed in the direction of the open wave face and away from the breaking part of the wave.

I have 2 friends (one in NYC) who surf Brooklyn, it is not unusual.

My personal favorite surfing movie recommendation is Bruce Brown's "The Endless Summer"... about as classic as a surf movie gets, and an excellent soundtrack provided by The Sandells (aka The Sandals).

Personal favorite surf spots:

Puerto Escondido (Baja, MX)
Horseshoes (La Jolla)
Black's Beach (La Jolla)
Swami's (Encinitas)
Lower Trestles (The OC, CA)
Salt Creek (The OC, CA)
Secret spots (private beaches) in and around El Pescador/El Matador (LA/VTA County)
Hollywood-By-The-Sea (OXNARD, CA 805 MoFoz)
Santa Clara Rivermouth (Ventura, CA)
The Ranch (private beach north of Santa Barbara)
Velzyland (northshore Oahu)

Luna surfs, I think.

No offense, but quite possibly the stupidest person I have ever met in my life was a surfer. Serious surfers also tend to be rediculously short.

Cool!

I used to hear stories about people getting their asses kicked for parking in one of the locals' spots. Lord knows what would happen if someone commits an act of kook-ery.

Check the Preppy thread on ILE.

http://www.poshboy.com/Graphics/illrepute.jpg

The sensations of surfing don't translate easily into words. The best I can come up with for the sort of feeling I crave in surfing is INTENSE. "Gnarly" works too.

i was never cool enough to be down with the nardcore kids. also didnt go to public school so that didnt do me any favors.

i went to high school with roger camero, bass player in no motiv, if that makes me any cooler

(it doesnt)

I mostly cry now.

http://www.ebgames.com/ebx_assets/product_images/215130.jpg

that beach is called "mavericks" and yes, it's about 1/2 a mile off the coast of half moon bay.

Maybe we should go and see RIDING GIANTS.

what is the opening song that plays during that video, sounds kinda tribal but eastern but glossy...?

when I see 'teahupoo' my mind does a ctrl + f and replace w/ weeabo

http://knowyourmeme.com/i/29097/original/PBF071-Weeaboo.gif

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1330/5162565245_cf3a848287.jpg
i miss my surfboard!

it's teahupoo

― caek, Monday, November 8, 2010 7:03 AM (Yesterday)

whoa, never seen it so packed! it does have that undeniable THICKNESS you don't quite see anywhere else. but that pic resembles the classic Pipeline curvature from the shoulder.

(besides the crowed, the helmets and now-obvious fake T&C logo in the foreground swayed me, i must admit)

willing to bet those dudes are def just lurking on the shoulder. probably a heat going on?

had 3 epic sessions this past week... all lefts though so I got to work on my backside. my friends who are local dudes i paddled out with were a bit scared of how big it was but I didn't feel it was that bad. I got caught inside once and banged my knee on the reef but really not as brutal as I thought it would be this time of the year. my last ride of 2010 was perfect, late drop in, big bottom turn and then stalled into the pocket of this thick sucking bowl... wave started crumbling but I laid back down and stayed with the reform into the inside section, and got another 10 second ride almost onto the sand. <3<3<3

where were you at? how thick is your wetsuit?

O'ahu bareback (air/water = 80F)

RIP leroy grannis

amazing...
http://www.grindtv.com/surf/blog/25938/a+dreamlike+wave+found+in+an+indonesian+river+is+stunning+surf+world/

here's the isolated youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_vmS-bCoNU

holy shit. was watching dredged waimea river videos on youtube this morning but damn, this

Isn't there a river in South America that does that?

River bores? Sure, but I don't think there's anything with this kind of shape, size and ride quality... it's pretty unbelievable. I did some sleuthing and found out where it is:

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Teluk+Meranti,+Riau,+Indonesia&aq=0&sll=0.241699,101.184082&sspn=2.933003,4.938354&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Teluk+Meranti,+Pelalawan,+Riau,+Indonesia&z=10

the amazon, if planet earth is to be believed

whoah that is amazing

yeah the amazon tidal bore is what i was thinking of but holy shit @ those waves in indonesia

does anyone have any surfing doc recommendations apart from the excellent riding giants, endless summer's 1&2 and step into liquid?

if you can get past the in-your-face advertising, company videos are an essential. volcom has some ones i'm really fond of.

I love it and wish I (a) was a better surfer and (b) lived closer to a beach....

I've only surfed about 5 times though, mostly at Ocean City, Maryland (unless you count river surfing - there's a good standing wave in a Potomac River tributary in/near Washington D.C., and a great one behind Habitat '67 in Montreal). But I was brave enough to swim in Waimea Bay in Hawaii, and I can't find any words to describe how incredible and surreal it feels to swim upward and downward in 25-foot swells.

"Step Into Liquid" is my favourite surfing doc, one I strongly recommend to anyone who wants to understand the allure of the sport. Except for a late-'80s doc called "Surfers - the Movie" or something like that, I haven't seen any surf documentaries except the ones already mentioned.

those river waves remind me of those texans in step into liquid who would surf the endless waves in the wake of oil tankers

That's part of why I love that movie - it really does a great job of exploring surfing in all its shapes, forms, and permutations...

speaking of:

http://outofplacemovie.com/

sam500

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQfSx6zEey0

good technique, young surfers could learn a lot from watching that

daang ireland
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBTouTxTTQ4&feature=related

unforgivable song.

yeah the worst

Largest wave surfed... 78 feet! I've been to Nazare and there were good waves there, but didn't know they got that tall.

wouldn't want to go over the falls on that one.....

What would be a good Xmas present for a 10 year old who claims to be into surfing?

* I think this means he body boards when he goes to the beach in the summer.

get him a surf DVD