SURFING

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and Big Wednesday. you should see that.

― mullygrubber (gaz), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:17 (9 years ago) Permalink

Blue Crush is on some teenager cable network all this week, WAM! maybe? I don't remember, but it is definitely on as I woke up the other day with it playing on the tv. It's a bit off, a couple of the FX make the girl look very weird in the beginning surfing scenes, like her head is being pressurized.

― Allyzay, Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:17 (9 years ago) Permalink

i live on the east coast. a westie is someone who lives in the western suburbs of an east coast city. a thug. a hooligan. a moron.

― mullygrubber (gaz), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:19 (9 years ago) Permalink

I don't have cable, but I will rent it. And Big Wednesday too. Point Break I have seen about a zillion times. But it is good.

Is this a Westie?

― @d@ml (nordicskilla), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:20 (9 years ago) Permalink

i windsurfed once!

― s1ocki (slutsky), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:21 (9 years ago) Permalink

no adam, thats colin.

― mullygrubber (gaz), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:21 (9 years ago) Permalink

How was it?

(x-post, I sort of imagined Colin to look a bit like that!)

― @d@ml (nordicskilla), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:22 (9 years ago) Permalink

I just saw Blue Crush on WAM! last night! It's great. My wife was so into it that she was like grabbing onto my arm and holding her breath all through the last big run.

Uh, that's all I have to contribute to the topic. All we do on the Atlantic coast is body surf (which is classic itself).

(xpost)
Oh yeah, I windsurfed once too, but just on a lake. And I only figured out how to go one direction...so once I got a sufficient distance from shore and tried to turn around, the whole thing just fell over. My friend had to swim out and surf it back in.

― spittle (spittle), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:23 (9 years ago) Permalink

it was fun! i think i got about three feet before i fell down

― s1ocki (slutsky), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:23 (9 years ago) Permalink

also i waterskiied once!

― s1ocki (slutsky), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:24 (9 years ago) Permalink

This thread is about surfing.

― @d@ml (nordicskilla), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:25 (9 years ago) Permalink

i moved near the beach and bought the boy a boogie board for christmas! his grandmother (75) wanted a go and she came off on a biggish wave and dislocated her shoulder.

― mullygrubber (gaz), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:26 (9 years ago) Permalink

how we laughed

― mullygrubber (gaz), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:26 (9 years ago) Permalink

i watched back to the beach a couple of months ago!

― s1ocki (slutsky), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:26 (9 years ago) Permalink

also i've lived with surfies. its up at the crack of dawn, licked finger in the air. off-shore? lets go. if not its breakfast bong time.

― mullygrubber (gaz), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:31 (9 years ago) Permalink

Sounds great!

― @d@ml (nordicskilla), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:32 (9 years ago) Permalink

welll...sort of

― @d@ml (nordicskilla), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:32 (9 years ago) Permalink

maybe not, actually.

― @d@ml (nordicskilla), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:32 (9 years ago) Permalink

No, that's not for me at all.

― @d@ml (nordicskilla), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:32 (9 years ago) Permalink

you're not a wake-and-baker adam?

― s1ocki (slutsky), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:33 (9 years ago) Permalink

its what i want for my children.

― mullygrubber (gaz), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:33 (9 years ago) Permalink

you're not a wake-and-baker adam?

Are we talking muffins? If so, I've been known to dabble.

― @d@ml (nordicskilla), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:34 (9 years ago) Permalink

but only if the winds not right

― mullygrubber (gaz), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:35 (9 years ago) Permalink

I like to dabble in the odd muffin on Sunday mornings myself.

― the music mole (colin s barrow), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:52 (9 years ago) Permalink

please

― @d@ml (nordicskilla), Thursday, 6 May 2004 03:54 (9 years ago) Permalink

lets see then.

hang ten is when you have 10 toes over the edge of the board. hang 5 is when you only have 5 toes over the edge (thats one foot adam)

closing out is a term for when the waves are not forming nice tubes but are likely to crash on yer head. dropping in is frowned upon.

a lemonhead is a dude who uses lemon to bleach his hair and look like a windswept blonde surfy. if you don't pull the cone you are a westie pooftah.

― mullygrubber (gaz), Thursday, 6 May 2004 04:03 (9 years ago) Permalink

Wow, you are officially the resident expert, gaz. well done.

I am so not a lemonhead.

― @d@ml (nordicskilla), Thursday, 6 May 2004 04:04 (9 years ago) Permalink

Well, that's fine and dando.

― the music mole (colin s barrow), Thursday, 6 May 2004 04:09 (9 years ago) Permalink

I moved to L.A. 3 months ago. I bought a longboard 1 month ago. I've been out twice (Venice Beach). The first time, nothing. The second time, I rode a wave for a bit. A REALLY big thrill. Even though it was a small wave, and only a short time. Stood up and surfed for like one minute or something. I'd like to really learn. But I'm chicken of the big waves. There, I've said it.

― Skottie, Thursday, 6 May 2004 04:56 (9 years ago) Permalink

When I was about 14 I spent 3 weeks in Biarritz. I got a boogie board and a pair of loud shorts and I thought I was IT. Unfortunately, I got a bit carried away and decided to try standing on the board with the line strapped round my ankle. I lasted maybe 0.45 seconds before being hurled off and then a surfer went over my head. It hurt. I looked very stupid.

― Madchen (Madchen), Thursday, 6 May 2004 09:28 (9 years ago) Permalink

I'll repeat my story of surfing:

I was a huge college football star but I hurt my knee, so I joined the FBI and then took up surfing on the side because the chick who worked at the crab shack had a nice bum. And she also knew a few cool surfer dudes, Bodhi, Warchyld, Bunker Weiss. We hung out, got real close. I also had a older pal who enjoyed meatball sandwiches and lemonades. His name was Angelo. I got pretty decent at surfing and then discovered that Bodhi had kidnapped my crab shack love. Bodhi told me the only way I could get her back was to go skydiving with him without a parachute! So I did, except I jumped on Bodhi's back because the sneaky fucker actually had a parachute. When we hit the ground I landed awkwardly on my knee and let out a screech "whoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa." Come to find out Bodhi and his buddies actually rob banks with masks of ex-presidents as their disguise. Well anyways, Bodhi eventually dies in the 100 year storm in Tahiti on a 400 foot wave. Those were good times.

― Chris 'The Velvet Bingo' V (Chris V), Thursday, 6 May 2004 09:56 (9 years ago) Permalink

Hi,

In my Southern California days, I surfed quite a bit. From the tip of Baja California, Mexico up to Santa Cruz and west to Hawaii (furthest west surfed was Windmill Beach on the northwest tip of Maui).

The gist is that you sit on a piece of foam encased in varying layers of fiberglass with a skag (skeg or fin) or three on the tail facing the incoming waves near where they break (where the wave crumbles or pitches out). When a wave is approaching you turn the board around facing the coast and paddle with your arms, propelling your board into the wave's momentum. As the wave becomes steeper, the board becomes propelled by the inclining waveface's energy and at this point you stop paddling, push up with both arms and slide a leg forward (left if you're "regular", right if you're "goofy") and begin turning so as to keep the board headed in the direction of the open wave face and away from the breaking part of the wave.

I have 2 friends (one in NYC) who surf Brooklyn, it is not unusual.

My personal favorite surfing movie recommendation is Bruce Brown's "The Endless Summer"... about as classic as a surf movie gets, and an excellent soundtrack provided by The Sandells (aka The Sandals).

Personal favorite surf spots:

Puerto Escondido (Baja, MX)
Horseshoes (La Jolla)
Black's Beach (La Jolla)
Swami's (Encinitas)
Lower Trestles (The OC, CA)
Salt Creek (The OC, CA)
Secret spots (private beaches) in and around El Pescador/El Matador (LA/VTA County)
Hollywood-By-The-Sea (OXNARD, CA 805 MoFoz)
Santa Clara Rivermouth (Ventura, CA)
The Ranch (private beach north of Santa Barbara)
Velzyland (northshore Oahu)

― gygax! (gygax!), Thursday, 6 May 2004 19:47 (9 years ago) Permalink

I really wanna try surfing but alas I can't swim and have a primal fear of water, esp a big scary ocean.

Luna surfs, I think.

― oops (Oops), Thursday, 6 May 2004 19:53 (9 years ago) Permalink

OXNARD REPRESENT.

No offense, but quite possibly the stupidest person I have ever met in my life was a surfer. Serious surfers also tend to be rediculously short.

― bill stevens (bscrubbins), Thursday, 6 May 2004 19:56 (9 years ago) Permalink

as recounted on another thread, I saw a guy with a surfboard get on the A train the other day.

― hstencil (hstencil), Thursday, 6 May 2004 19:58 (9 years ago) Permalink

Serious surfers also tend to be rediculously short.

Cool!

― @d@ml (nordicskilla), Thursday, 6 May 2004 20:00 (9 years ago) Permalink

Oxnard is blessed with quite a few great surf spots; however, the locals know this and I've seen a lot of not only really bad vibes go down, but also a lot of violence (particularly in Silver Strand and Hollywood By The Sea). Fortunately, I've never got too much vibes from locals by being respectful which is pretty much a simple code to live by.

― gygax! (gygax!), Thursday, 6 May 2004 20:00 (9 years ago) Permalink

Stephen Malkmus wrote the same stuff on his blog. 'Oxnard has the meanest locals'

I used to hear stories about people getting their asses kicked for parking in one of the locals' spots. Lord knows what would happen if someone commits an act of kook-ery.

― bill stevens (bscrubbins), Thursday, 6 May 2004 20:18 (9 years ago) Permalink

haha, SM's sister lives in Oxnard. She works with an XGF of mine for a very large biotech company in Thousand Oaks.

― gygax! (gygax!), Thursday, 6 May 2004 20:19 (9 years ago) Permalink

Oxnard doesn't seem very mean to me.

― @d@ml (nordicskilla), Thursday, 6 May 2004 20:21 (9 years ago) Permalink

http://images.google.com/images?q=nardcore&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wi

― gygax! (gygax!), Thursday, 6 May 2004 20:22 (9 years ago) Permalink

http://images.google.com/images?q=ill+repute+oxnard&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en

― gygax! (gygax!), Thursday, 6 May 2004 20:22 (9 years ago) Permalink

hahaha ill repute

― @d@ml (nordicskilla), Thursday, 6 May 2004 20:25 (9 years ago) Permalink

Best name for a hardcore band ever.

― NA (Nick A.), Thursday, 6 May 2004 20:28 (9 years ago) Permalink

Search: Ill Repute's "Preppy", one of the best hardcore songs ever.

Check the Preppy thread on ILE.

― gygax! (gygax!), Thursday, 6 May 2004 20:29 (9 years ago) Permalink

Haha, CAss called me a preppy earlier this week.

― NA (Nick A.), Thursday, 6 May 2004 20:31 (9 years ago) Permalink

oh fuck, that was JFA... Ill Repute's big hit was "Clean Cut American Kid"... 13 year old skater me would be so shamed.

― gygax! (gygax!), Thursday, 6 May 2004 20:31 (9 years ago) Permalink

i still have this zine (from 1983 i believe):

― gygax! (gygax!), Thursday, 6 May 2004 20:32 (9 years ago) Permalink

I've gone through obsessive phases with this. Lots of skateboarding and bodysurfing leading up to my first stand-up ride in Puerto Escondido, then riding mostly in New England's points and beaches, chasing hurricane and nor'easter swells. Most powerful waves I've surfed have been on trips to Chile. I'm not very talented (the opposite of short, alas), but I love the bigger days.

The sensations of surfing don't translate easily into words. The best I can come up with for the sort of feeling I crave in surfing is INTENSE. "Gnarly" works too.

― Collardio Gelatinous (collardio), Thursday, 6 May 2004 20:32 (9 years ago) Permalink

holy shit. a she-malkmus working at amgen!

i was never cool enough to be down with the nardcore kids. also didnt go to public school so that didnt do me any favors.

i went to high school with roger camero, bass player in no motiv, if that makes me any cooler

(it doesnt)

― bill stevens (bscrubbins), Thursday, 6 May 2004 20:33 (9 years ago) Permalink

Skipping 56 messages at this point... Click here if you want to load them all.

I'll repeat my story of surfing:
I was a huge college football star but I hurt my knee, so I joined the FBI and then took up surfing on the side because the chick who worked at the crab shack had a nice bum. And she also knew a few cool surfer dudes, Bodhi, Warchyld, Bunker Weiss. We hung out, got real close. I also had a older pal who enjoyed meatball sandwiches and lemonades. His name was Angelo. I got pretty decent at surfing and then discovered that Bodhi had kidnapped my crab shack love. Bodhi told me the only way I could get her back was to go skydiving with him without a parachute! So I did, except I jumped on Bodhi's back because the sneaky fucker actually had a parachute. When we hit the ground I landed awkwardly on my knee and let out a screech "whoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa." Come to find out Bodhi and his buddies actually rob banks with masks of ex-presidents as their disguise. Well anyways, Bodhi eventually dies in the 100 year storm in Tahiti on a 400 foot wave. Those were good times.
― Chris 'The Velvet Bingo' V (Chris V)

lol

― l∞l (darraghmac), Tuesday, 12 October 2010 17:11 (2 years ago) Permalink

3 weeks pass...

guys

― caek, Monday, 8 November 2010 14:46 (2 years ago) Permalink

I assume it's Pipeline but it could be Teahupoo?

― i love you but i have chosen snarkness (Steve Shasta), Monday, 8 November 2010 15:02 (2 years ago) Permalink

it's teahupoo

― caek, Monday, 8 November 2010 15:03 (2 years ago) Permalink

it's teahupoo

unmistakable imo

― BIG MUFFIN (gbx), Monday, 8 November 2010 15:17 (2 years ago) Permalink

so beautiful

still have never been surfing tho. :(

― BIG MUFFIN (gbx), Monday, 8 November 2010 15:19 (2 years ago) Permalink

god, teahupoo is just... , ..

― bear, bear, bear, Monday, 8 November 2010 17:31 (2 years ago) Permalink

Also is Drooone still around? Cause I kinda feel like gettin a little macho on him..

Swweeet.
But I hate surfers.

― Drooone, Sunday, July 29, 2007 11:16 PM (3 years ago) Bookmark Suggest Ban Permalink

Invariably, they are macho aggro redneck losers.

― Drooone, Sunday, July 29, 2007 11:19 PM (3 years ago) Bookmark

― bear, bear, bear, Monday, 8 November 2010 17:33 (2 years ago) Permalink

http://www.irishtimes.com/newspaper/ireland/2010/1109/1224282943520.html?via=mr

― cant believe you sb'd me for that (darraghmac), Wednesday, 10 November 2010 00:32 (2 years ago) Permalink

xpost lol just yesterday my gf started telling me how some of the lads at her work had a boys weekend at c00l4ngatta (basically Aust surfing ground zero) last weekend and they went out on the piss, and I said 'they got bashed didn't they lol' and she said 'yes, pretty much'.

That's where I'm coming from re awesome 'chill surfer bros'!

― yuoowemeone, Wednesday, 10 November 2010 02:21 (2 years ago) Permalink

when I see 'teahupoo' my mind does a ctrl + f and replace w/ weeabo

― dayo, Wednesday, 10 November 2010 02:29 (2 years ago) Permalink

i miss my surfboard!

― the tune is space, Wednesday, 10 November 2010 02:32 (2 years ago) Permalink

it's teahupoo
― caek, Monday, November 8, 2010 7:03 AM (Yesterday)

whoa, never seen it so packed! it does have that undeniable THICKNESS you don't quite see anywhere else. but that pic resembles the classic Pipeline curvature from the shoulder.

― i love you but i have chosen snarkness (Steve Shasta), Wednesday, 10 November 2010 02:36 (2 years ago) Permalink

(besides the crowed, the helmets and now-obvious fake T&C logo in the foreground swayed me, i must admit)

― i love you but i have chosen snarkness (Steve Shasta), Wednesday, 10 November 2010 02:37 (2 years ago) Permalink

willing to bet those dudes are def just lurking on the shoulder. probably a heat going on?

― bear, bear, bear, Wednesday, 10 November 2010 02:42 (2 years ago) Permalink

1 month passes...

had 3 epic sessions this past week... all lefts though so I got to work on my backside. my friends who are local dudes i paddled out with were a bit scared of how big it was but I didn't feel it was that bad. I got caught inside once and banged my knee on the reef but really not as brutal as I thought it would be this time of the year. my last ride of 2010 was perfect, late drop in, big bottom turn and then stalled into the pocket of this thick sucking bowl... wave started crumbling but I laid back down and stayed with the reform into the inside section, and got another 10 second ride almost onto the sand. <3<3<3

― i love you but i have chosen snarkness (Steve Shasta), Wednesday, 15 December 2010 20:34 (2 years ago) Permalink

where were you at? how thick is your wetsuit?

― moonship journey to baja, Wednesday, 15 December 2010 20:42 (2 years ago) Permalink

O'ahu bareback (air/water = 80F)

― i love you but i have chosen snarkness (Steve Shasta), Wednesday, 15 December 2010 20:51 (2 years ago) Permalink

1 month passes...

RIP leroy grannis

― moonship journey to baja, Monday, 7 February 2011 21:52 (2 years ago) Permalink

2 months pass...

amazing...
http://www.grindtv.com/surf/blog/25938/a+dreamlike+wave+found+in+an+indonesian+river+is+stunning+surf+world/

― City of Jorts (Steve Shasta), Sunday, 10 April 2011 19:48 (2 years ago) Permalink

here's the isolated youtube:

― City of Jorts (Steve Shasta), Sunday, 10 April 2011 19:49 (2 years ago) Permalink

holy shit. was watching dredged waimea river videos on youtube this morning but damn, this

― bear, bear, bear, Sunday, 10 April 2011 20:05 (2 years ago) Permalink

Isn't there a river in South America that does that?

― Oink Administrator (gr8080), Sunday, 10 April 2011 20:32 (2 years ago) Permalink

River bores? Sure, but I don't think there's anything with this kind of shape, size and ride quality... it's pretty unbelievable. I did some sleuthing and found out where it is:

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Teluk+Meranti,+Riau,+Indonesia&aq=0&sll=0.241699,101.184082&sspn=2.933003,4.938354&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Teluk+Meranti,+Pelalawan,+Riau,+Indonesia&z=10

― City of Jorts (Steve Shasta), Sunday, 10 April 2011 20:38 (2 years ago) Permalink

the amazon, if planet earth is to be believed

― Elegant Bitch (Jimmy The Mod Awaits The Return Of His Beloved), Sunday, 10 April 2011 20:38 (2 years ago) Permalink

whoah that is amazing

― FUN FUN FUN FUN (gbx), Sunday, 10 April 2011 20:47 (2 years ago) Permalink

yeah the amazon tidal bore is what i was thinking of but holy shit @ those waves in indonesia

― Oink Administrator (gr8080), Sunday, 10 April 2011 22:34 (2 years ago) Permalink

does anyone have any surfing doc recommendations apart from the excellent riding giants, endless summer's 1&2 and step into liquid?

― sam500, Tuesday, 12 April 2011 02:00 (2 years ago) Permalink

if you can get past the in-your-face advertising, company videos are an essential. volcom has some ones i'm really fond of.

― o pointy birds, o pointy pointy, anoint my head, anoity noity (kelpolaris), Tuesday, 12 April 2011 02:04 (2 years ago) Permalink

I love it and wish I (a) was a better surfer and (b) lived closer to a beach....

I've only surfed about 5 times though, mostly at Ocean City, Maryland (unless you count river surfing - there's a good standing wave in a Potomac River tributary in/near Washington D.C., and a great one behind Habitat '67 in Montreal). But I was brave enough to swim in Waimea Bay in Hawaii, and I can't find any words to describe how incredible and surreal it feels to swim upward and downward in 25-foot swells.

"Step Into Liquid" is my favourite surfing doc, one I strongly recommend to anyone who wants to understand the allure of the sport. Except for a late-'80s doc called "Surfers - the Movie" or something like that, I haven't seen any surf documentaries except the ones already mentioned.

― Lee626, Tuesday, 12 April 2011 03:13 (2 years ago) Permalink

those river waves remind me of those texans in step into liquid who would surf the endless waves in the wake of oil tankers

― ban drake (the rapper) (max), Tuesday, 12 April 2011 03:19 (2 years ago) Permalink

That's part of why I love that movie - it really does a great job of exploring surfing in all its shapes, forms, and permutations...

― Lee626, Tuesday, 12 April 2011 03:28 (2 years ago) Permalink

speaking of:

http://outofplacemovie.com/

― Oink Administrator (gr8080), Tuesday, 12 April 2011 05:35 (2 years ago) Permalink

sam500

― buzza, Tuesday, 12 April 2011 07:02 (2 years ago) Permalink

2 months pass...

― it's a meme i made and i like (Steve Shasta), Friday, 17 June 2011 22:02 (1 year ago) Permalink

good technique, young surfers could learn a lot from watching that

― Pompoussin (admrl), Friday, 17 June 2011 22:15 (1 year ago) Permalink

7 months pass...

daang ireland

― bear, bear, bear, Wednesday, 18 January 2012 08:21 (1 year ago) Permalink

unforgivable song.

― ⚓ (gr8080), Wednesday, 18 January 2012 12:37 (1 year ago) Permalink

yeah the worst

― bear, bear, bear, Thursday, 19 January 2012 00:24 (1 year ago) Permalink

3 months pass...

Largest wave surfed... 78 feet! I've been to Nazare and there were good waves there, but didn't know they got that tall.

― Vini Reilly Invasion (Elvis Telecom), Thursday, 10 May 2012 03:11 (1 year ago) Permalink

wouldn't want to go over the falls on that one.....

― Lee626, Wednesday, 16 May 2012 09:08 (1 year ago) Permalink

6 months pass...

What would be a good Xmas present for a 10 year old who claims to be into surfing?

* I think this means he body boards when he goes to the beach in the summer.

― djh, Wednesday, 12 December 2012 21:14 (5 months ago) Permalink

get him a surf DVD

― ❏❐❑❒ (gr8080), Wednesday, 12 December 2012 21:28 (5 months ago) Permalink

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