had 3 epic sessions this past week... all lefts though so I got to work on my backside. my friends who are local dudes i paddled out with were a bit scared of how big it was but I didn't feel it was that bad. I got caught inside once and banged my knee on the reef but really not as brutal as I thought it would be this time of the year. my last ride of 2010 was perfect, late drop in, big bottom turn and then stalled into the pocket of this thick sucking bowl... wave started crumbling but I laid back down and stayed with the reform into the inside section, and got another 10 second ride almost onto the sand. <3<3<3
― i love you but i have chosen snarkness (Steve Shasta), Wednesday, 15 December 2010 20:34 (2 years ago) Permalink
where were you at? how thick is your wetsuit?
― moonship journey to baja, Wednesday, 15 December 2010 20:42 (2 years ago) Permalink
O'ahu bareback (air/water = 80F)
― i love you but i have chosen snarkness (Steve Shasta), Wednesday, 15 December 2010 20:51 (2 years ago) Permalink
RIP leroy grannis
― moonship journey to baja, Monday, 7 February 2011 21:52 (2 years ago) Permalink
amazing...http://www.grindtv.com/surf/blog/25938/a+dreamlike+wave+found+in+an+indonesian+river+is+stunning+surf+world/
― City of Jorts (Steve Shasta), Sunday, 10 April 2011 19:48 (2 years ago) Permalink
here's the isolated youtube:
― City of Jorts (Steve Shasta), Sunday, 10 April 2011 19:49 (2 years ago) Permalink
holy shit. was watching dredged waimea river videos on youtube this morning but damn, this
― bear, bear, bear, Sunday, 10 April 2011 20:05 (2 years ago) Permalink
Isn't there a river in South America that does that?
― Oink Administrator (gr8080), Sunday, 10 April 2011 20:32 (2 years ago) Permalink
River bores? Sure, but I don't think there's anything with this kind of shape, size and ride quality... it's pretty unbelievable. I did some sleuthing and found out where it is:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Teluk+Meranti,+Riau,+Indonesia&aq=0&sll=0.241699,101.184082&sspn=2.933003,4.938354&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Teluk+Meranti,+Pelalawan,+Riau,+Indonesia&z=10
― City of Jorts (Steve Shasta), Sunday, 10 April 2011 20:38 (2 years ago) Permalink
the amazon, if planet earth is to be believed
― Elegant Bitch (Jimmy The Mod Awaits The Return Of His Beloved), Sunday, 10 April 2011 20:38 (2 years ago) Permalink
whoah that is amazing
― FUN FUN FUN FUN (gbx), Sunday, 10 April 2011 20:47 (2 years ago) Permalink
yeah the amazon tidal bore is what i was thinking of but holy shit @ those waves in indonesia
― Oink Administrator (gr8080), Sunday, 10 April 2011 22:34 (2 years ago) Permalink
does anyone have any surfing doc recommendations apart from the excellent riding giants, endless summer's 1&2 and step into liquid?
― sam500, Tuesday, 12 April 2011 02:00 (2 years ago) Permalink
if you can get past the in-your-face advertising, company videos are an essential. volcom has some ones i'm really fond of.
― o pointy birds, o pointy pointy, anoint my head, anoity noity (kelpolaris), Tuesday, 12 April 2011 02:04 (2 years ago) Permalink
I love it and wish I (a) was a better surfer and (b) lived closer to a beach....
I've only surfed about 5 times though, mostly at Ocean City, Maryland (unless you count river surfing - there's a good standing wave in a Potomac River tributary in/near Washington D.C., and a great one behind Habitat '67 in Montreal). But I was brave enough to swim in Waimea Bay in Hawaii, and I can't find any words to describe how incredible and surreal it feels to swim upward and downward in 25-foot swells.
"Step Into Liquid" is my favourite surfing doc, one I strongly recommend to anyone who wants to understand the allure of the sport. Except for a late-'80s doc called "Surfers - the Movie" or something like that, I haven't seen any surf documentaries except the ones already mentioned.
― Lee626, Tuesday, 12 April 2011 03:13 (2 years ago) Permalink
those river waves remind me of those texans in step into liquid who would surf the endless waves in the wake of oil tankers
― ban drake (the rapper) (max), Tuesday, 12 April 2011 03:19 (2 years ago) Permalink
That's part of why I love that movie - it really does a great job of exploring surfing in all its shapes, forms, and permutations...
― Lee626, Tuesday, 12 April 2011 03:28 (2 years ago) Permalink
speaking of:
http://outofplacemovie.com/
― Oink Administrator (gr8080), Tuesday, 12 April 2011 05:35 (2 years ago) Permalink
sam500
― buzza, Tuesday, 12 April 2011 07:02 (2 years ago) Permalink
― it's a meme i made and i like (Steve Shasta), Friday, 17 June 2011 22:02 (2 years ago) Permalink
good technique, young surfers could learn a lot from watching that
― Pompoussin (admrl), Friday, 17 June 2011 22:15 (2 years ago) Permalink
daang ireland
― bear, bear, bear, Wednesday, 18 January 2012 08:21 (1 year ago) Permalink
unforgivable song.
― ⚓ (gr8080), Wednesday, 18 January 2012 12:37 (1 year ago) Permalink
yeah the worst
― bear, bear, bear, Thursday, 19 January 2012 00:24 (1 year ago) Permalink
Largest wave surfed... 78 feet! I've been to Nazare and there were good waves there, but didn't know they got that tall.
― Vini Reilly Invasion (Elvis Telecom), Thursday, 10 May 2012 03:11 (1 year ago) Permalink
wouldn't want to go over the falls on that one.....
― Lee626, Wednesday, 16 May 2012 09:08 (1 year ago) Permalink
What would be a good Xmas present for a 10 year old who claims to be into surfing?
* I think this means he body boards when he goes to the beach in the summer.
― djh, Wednesday, 12 December 2012 21:14 (6 months ago) Permalink
get him a surf DVD
― ❏❐❑❒ (gr8080), Wednesday, 12 December 2012 21:28 (6 months ago) Permalink